truenoboy

I just bought an A/C compressor sealant that ask that I vacuum the A/C line before istalling. Is there a dyi way to do this without having to take it to a shop and paying them to evacuate the system.

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

DO NOT use the AC fix a leak stuff. It's a 50/50 chance of working or less. If it plugs the leak...then good. If it doesn't then you will be in a world of hurt. The sealing compound will solidify in the lines and possibly into the evaporator/condensor/compressor. You will end up having to replace almost everything in the AC system because the stuff will clog everything up.

Infamous 1

iTrader: (20)

Just take it to a shop.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

Trueno....u dont have to vacuum down anything UNLESS your system is completely empty...use the supplied hose/adapter and attach it to your low side, open can and let it flow into system. USE THE WHOLE CAN and then attach your gauges and if your low on freon add some. i recommend hotshot 414-b, they do make small 11 oz cans (or have someone who can do this)

u can read about it here
http://www.icorinternational.com/hotshot.html

lol...jeff I'm the one who recommended this one to him (the guy who manages a HVAC supply house for the last 9 years.I know you a mechanical guru but HVAC-R is my specialty) we sell this stuff everyday and its DEF not 50/50 in the 4 years we have had it, we have had ONE complaint about it and it wasn't for the problem you are referring to. i have been running the SAME one i recommended in my es300 for almost 5 years now with no problems. its a safe drop in to a system. don't take this as rudeness but i personally have used it...have you? we have sold 309 cans of this for a home system in the last 2 years so obviously it doesn't have that many issues (we have 3 stores in town and this is the total sale for JUST my store)

this is the one i recommended to him

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/pc-1...um-946kit.aspx

read about it here....

http://www.cliplight.com/hvacr/news.php?articleID=32


oh btw this is the residential one
http://www.climatedoctors.com/items/...?itemid=429298

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

I haven't personally used it. I usually just tear down the AC and fix whatever is leaking rather than using a sealing additive. I do occasional AC work on my car and on friends so I'm not new at it. I'm sure you have a ton more experience than me so I won't argue with what you have to say.

But I have never used the leak sealer because of what I've seen in some cases online. They used the leak fixer stuff that ends up crystallizing up and clogging up everything around the leak. If I'm not mistaken, that stuff reacts to oxygen(areas around leaks) and will solidify. I'm guessing the people that clog up their system have a major leak and not just a minor one. Also, don't some A/C shops refuse to work on the car if they have that stuff in your car. It clogs up their AC refrigerant recovery machine or something like that.

Alexus_300

iTrader: (4)

I agree with jeff on this. I guess all us gear heads like to solve the problem the correct way rather than putting a band aid on it. But to the OP, if you have a air compressor, go to harbour freight and pick up the refrigerant collection tool that attaches to your air compressor and use it to withdrawal the old refrigerant from your system. This way, it'll provide the best cooling during those hot humid summer days..

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

yes, tearing down and rebuilding or replacing the compressor would be the best way to go but REALLY isnt cost efficient or needed in most situations. the leak sealant is essentially a oil (which most people dont know but this is what most freons are also). it does react to oxygen and it doesnt exactly solidify. it essentially adds a coating of oil over the leak and then another coating as it circulates through the system which is why its VITAL to have the system running when you add this! i have heard of on home systems pf sealant's jamming up compressors but as i said we have NEVER had a problem with this specific product. this also isnt designed for a major leak, if you have small...or pinhole leaks this is perfect for you; if you have a hole or something in the system then its not gonna be for you (the OP). i've NEVER heard of a a/c shop refusing to work on a car because a sealant is in it...i guess they could refuse if they wanna but they wouldnt ever know if you didnt tell them (not that im saying to hide it im just saying you couldnt look at it and say "oh that has a sealant in it") and you know compressor is leaking OP....did someone run dye through it or how/why do you assume the compressor is leaking?


omfg, dude be quiet. its not a band aid... it is actually a fix and the tool your talking about to "withdrawal" freon (its actually called recovering freon and you need a recovery machine) and then you will also need a vacuum pump to vacuum down the system that's the CORRECT way mr gearhead....and is not needed here if he uses the sealer.

dont take me wrong alexus im happy to debate this with you but as i said to jeff this is how/where i make my living. i manage a HVAC supply house i've been at for 9 years and we have over 300 stores nationwide so i do know a bit about HVAC. no, im not a major gearhead and will probably never teardown/rebuild a car motor but i can do most heating/air things in my sleep


OP the freon i recommended to you...(if you had read that post about it, you would know) its a direct drop in for 134, it runs 10 degrees colder than 12 and is cheap (like $11 a can). i have it in my gs430 and can get my air to mid 30's on the interstate (verified with a temp gun) and my old es300 had it and the sealant and it would get down to mid to high 30's on the interstate. you can buy it from probably any HVAC supply house....i know we carry it ( if you pm me i will tell you where one of our stores is located nearby you)

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

checked air last night....at 83 degrees outside temp WITH air moving over the radiator i got air inside down to 38 degrees and in 96 degrees sitting WITHOUT air moving over radiator i got 60 degrees inside car and with air moving over it i got into the LOW 50's/HIGH 40'S even with the high heat outside so like i said i love that freon.

did u get this done OP?

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

sakataj, got a question for you. What pressue should R134A be charged to on the low and high side? I have a gauge set that says to target around 35psi low side. On my spordesign grey GS, the one I just bought. The car currently shows low side to be around 45psi and the AC in that car doesn't blow as cold as the one on my white GS that I charged myself.

I'm thinking it might be overcharged by the previous owner or something. But another thing, on one of my freind's cars that I've charged for him before. This is from zero charge/vacuumed...so basically empty system. With a single 12oz can, the pressure was at around 40-45psi. Then I put in a 2nd can(his car spec is for 1.5lbs) and the pressure went to 35psi. Does more refrigerant in the system lower the low side pressure?

Please share some of your experiences lol

truenoboy

No, I didn't do it yet. I'm still debating now if I should just change out the compressor or not. Also, I don't have to gauges and stuff, so I need to get a whole of these things. By the way, I'm in zip code 33351. Where near me can I get some of that freon?

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

its brian btw jeff....
on the r134a your low side should be approximately 35
the high side is gonna vary....some where between 150-175-200

to answer your 2nd ?.....someplace on the car will be the quantity of freon it holds. this will be your starting point.
if you don't have enough freon in the car (or any a/c unit) you'll have a higher pressure which will cause a higher temperature so if you add more freon (refrigerant) you will have a lower temperature which will in turn equal a lower pressure. so, yes,more refrigerant will lower the low side pressure. am i making sense to you? glad to help...if you need to know anything about HVAC i will always try and help

any hvac supply house...where is zip 33351 like what city in florida?

truenoboy

Sunrise/Lauderhill, or better yet, let's just say Ft. Lauderdale.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

Johnstone Supply - Fort Lauderdale
(Store# 36)
5620 NW 12TH AVE
Fort Lauderdale, FL 33309-1509
Phone: (954) 971-9350

u do have to have a EPA card though to buy freon

i work for Johnstone Supply (store # 277) but my owner ALSO owns store # 61 and store # 146

JeffTsai

iTrader: (1)

Here in TX, you don't need the card to buy R134. You only need it to buy R12.

truenoboy

Alright, so how am I going to get my hands on R134? I don't have this special card you guys are referring to.