truenoboy

I went to change my front brakes yesterday only to discover that the insides of the tire are eaten out. Below is my suspension setup, wheel setup, and pics. Is this normal, and how can I correct this problem? It almost looks like wear from the upper ball joints, however I almost an inch clearence and don't see how the wheel could recoil up and rub it.

Specs:
- DF210 springs
- KYB G2R struts
- 235/30/20 front tires

VNN326

iTrader: (21)

that looks like straight camber wear. how long has it been since you got new tires? how often do you drive? btw if it hit the uca, you will probally see cuts and chunks missing.

5t341th

iTrader: (16)

that looks like regular camber/toe wear.
time for new tires and an alignment.
remember, even with daily use, your alignment will get out of specs over time

truenoboy

I went to change my front brakes yesterday only to discover that the insides of the tire are eaten out. Below is my suspension setup, wheel setup, and pics. Is this normal, and how can I correct this problem? It almost looks like wear from the upper ball joints, however I almost an inch clearence and don't see how the wheel could recoil up and rub it.

Specs:
- DF210 sprint
- KYB G2R struts
- 235/30/20 front tires

GS300ToM

iTrader: (32)

thats a really bad negative camber wear and outta spec toe haha...

RICHYRICH

iTrader: (5)

I have a similar set up and, from what the alignment shop tells me its from camber and toe wear!

4play4dr

camber wear

whazzzzuup

iTrader: (11)

This is a side effect of having a lowered car. To minimize this, a proper alignment (toe and camber setting closest to 0 as possible) is needed. Also, flipping the tires (remounting the right tire on the left wheel and vice versa), will prolong these wear characteristics. You do not need to worry about the upper control arm; it moves up along with the wheel when the suspension is compressed.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

If you have a camber kit. that is the reason why.

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

not only camber but toe.

PHML

iTrader: (33)

You need new tires.....then get 4-wheel computerized alignment done ASAP....like everyone...I suspect negative camber and too much toe in.

You pointed out the upper arm knuckle...yours look considerably long in length...mines seems shorter. Check to see if its torqued properly....or needs replacement.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

Larger rims, camber kit, spacers, anything that modifies the suspension such as lowering will cause camber wear. You just have to deal with it or take them off. The UCA I would aim first, ball joints, and suspension have it checked. Alignment doesn't necessary fixes the problem all the times. You just gotta deal with the suspension first. GL.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

time for rca's or camber kit....

SoCal Cyco

iTrader: (20)

i have ruffly the same same set up (df210's and 20's w/ 255/35-20) and mine looks nothing like that? truenoboy-when was the last time you got new tires, rotated them, or got an alienment? that looks really bad. at least you cought it before you had a blow out at speed.

for you experts how much would a good alienment save your tires, ie miles with alienment vs not alienment miles?

raytseng

Depends how "bad" your alignment is.

Your alignment specs could be hard on your tires or gentle on them.

If you are racing a car, sometimes you want to set certain alignment characteristics that sacrifice tire wear for certain performance characteristics.

Most likely though, a "bad" alignment will cause premature tire wear with no performance benefit, and actually probably performance detriment.

A "bad" alignment can grind through your tires within a few thousand miles.

A standard alignment should cost maybe $60. If you're modified and need special adjustments from an alignment artist, such a shop might charge you $100 or so. YMMV.

Now compare that to $600-$800 for new tires as well as regaining some lost performance.