Got some question(s)-Audio/2GS specific
#1
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Got some question(s)-Audio/2GS specific
hey all my gs400 currently has two 12" earthquak subs powered by some random amp(vis or something) and I want more. I was thingking of getting either a 12 JLw7 in the HO box or a 13w7 in the prowedge powered by a jl 1000/1 amp. Does anyone know if either of these will fit in the step up area that the box currently sits in?
Last edited by gs400 civi; 06-25-09 at 09:13 AM. Reason: edit
#7
With the rear factory sub removed for clearance you can't pass 14" height. Anything over 14" will hit that black box to the top right.
Both the JL boxes you listed are 3" and 4" too tall.
Before you drop all that money on that prefab JL equipment you should research a proper box design that forces all of the bass through the factory subwoofer cuthole hole...
The problem with our cars is that the trunk is sealed really good and the seats dont fold down and we don't have a hole behind the rear armrest so most of the bass pressure is stuck in the trunk. I think trunk rattle is ghetto and kills the car.
Check out the link in my signature.
I'd get (2) hi-powered 10's like some 10" Fi Q's in a properly designed box and power them with a 2krms hifonics 2010D, also get a battery in the back and do the BIG 3...
http://www.ficaraudio.com
If you do that you will have more of an impressive system then what you planned to get which not only costs less, but also sounds good inside and outside of the car with no trunk rattle.
*edit* forgot to mention you should use 1/0gauge as well.
Both the JL boxes you listed are 3" and 4" too tall.
Before you drop all that money on that prefab JL equipment you should research a proper box design that forces all of the bass through the factory subwoofer cuthole hole...
The problem with our cars is that the trunk is sealed really good and the seats dont fold down and we don't have a hole behind the rear armrest so most of the bass pressure is stuck in the trunk. I think trunk rattle is ghetto and kills the car.
Check out the link in my signature.
I'd get (2) hi-powered 10's like some 10" Fi Q's in a properly designed box and power them with a 2krms hifonics 2010D, also get a battery in the back and do the BIG 3...
http://www.ficaraudio.com
If you do that you will have more of an impressive system then what you planned to get which not only costs less, but also sounds good inside and outside of the car with no trunk rattle.
*edit* forgot to mention you should use 1/0gauge as well.
Last edited by SHiZNiLTi; 06-25-09 at 01:03 PM.
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#8
both the 12 and 13" JL W7's wont fit on the step....are you talking about the grey box with the red on the inside surrounding the sub? because thats what i have and it actually doesnt even really fit in the truck....i cant get it out...lol
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is it possible to run an aftermarket amps subs and speakers off the stock head unit? i heard the is300s had a problem, where the sounds wouldnt work due to a weird voltage or something like that. is it true with the gs300s? looking to pick up sounds from a friend tomorrow.
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thanks all for the responses, The big three have been done, 1 guage wiring-yes. not sure about the alternator but I should be able to do that in the driveway if need be. I went to my local jl dealer/ installer and have decided to go with the 13 w7/ 1000/ 1 amp in a custom made ported box to take full advantage of our car's trunk layout/ speaker hole. the trunk has been partially dynamatted by me (I did the rear deck, behind the seats, and the trunk basin). That killed 90% of my rattly but now I need to do my inner trunk cover/ hatch/ door cause that's rattling bad in addition to my stock grill area. Its good to know that our trunks are well sealed as well, it should sound great with all that done
Last edited by gs400 civi; 06-26-09 at 09:19 AM.
#14
It all depends on the sub and type of box, ported or sealed. Subs have specs to them...
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=30
The specs determain the size of the box needed. There's alot of math that goes into a proper box design, you can just cut a hole in a sealed box and then say it's ported. There needs to be a certain port length and port area to get the right tuning your looking for.
Due to the massive XMAX (excursion) of the W7 it moves alot of air and needs about 3.4cuft and should have around 60sq.in. of port area to really shine.
If your bad with math you can use this handy tool...
http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html
Sounds like a good plan. Let me know what type of design the installer did for you. Do you have pics?
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=30
The specs determain the size of the box needed. There's alot of math that goes into a proper box design, you can just cut a hole in a sealed box and then say it's ported. There needs to be a certain port length and port area to get the right tuning your looking for.
Due to the massive XMAX (excursion) of the W7 it moves alot of air and needs about 3.4cuft and should have around 60sq.in. of port area to really shine.
If your bad with math you can use this handy tool...
http://www.reaudio.com/speaker_box/LPort_Box_Calc.html
thanks all for the responses, The big three have been done, 1 guage wiring-yes. not sure about the alternator but I should be able to do that in the driveway if need be. I went to my local jl dealer/ installer and have decided to go with the 13 w7/ 1000/ 1 amp in a custom made ported box to take full advantage of our car's trunk layout/ speaker hole. the trunk has been partially dynamatted by me (I did the rear deck, behind the seats, and the trunk basin). That killed 90% of my rattly but now I need to do my inner trunk cover/ hatch/ door cause that's rattling bad in addition to my stock grill area. Its good to know that our trunks are well sealed as well, it should sound great with all that done
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oh they haven't done it yet, I still haven't sourced the amp and sub, I should have those soon, and then I will take them to the jl dealser have them checked out and then get their plans/ info on what they can do, and there will be lots of pics.