To any/all RE AUDIO XXX owners......
06-29-09, 02:22 PM
#16
lol, Big Mack dropped hella names 
I still don't think your thoughts on the electrical system are correct though...
I see where your coming from on everything else you said. It's good to know another person knows caraudio here, didn't mean to offend you or anything, but I'm just talking from pure experience I had a few weeks ago with just setting up a 2krms system in my Lexus GS300's trunk...
When I was installing my system (2 RE SX 10's and a Hifonics 2krms amp) I tested the amp and subs before installing the extra battery... I had lots of dimming and wasn't impressed with the output, especialy on the long deep bass notes. I then did some tests after I installed the battery in the trunk and all dimming went away and the bass was much more powerfull on the long deep bass notes. It was a huge difference, very noticable to even the novice caraudio enthusiast.
The main reason for keeping a large 2600ca battery w/ high Ah rating 160 or higher in the trunk is mainly due to the fact that you can't fit these large 70lb-100lb types of batteries under the hood of our GS's. Having short 2foot power runs to the amp helps prevent loss.
Don't mind the ghettoness of it, havn't put any trim panels on or fiberglassed anything yet, but you can get an idea of the battery size...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-and-pics.html
I still don't think your thoughts on the electrical system are correct though...I see where your coming from on everything else you said. It's good to know another person knows caraudio here, didn't mean to offend you or anything, but I'm just talking from pure experience I had a few weeks ago with just setting up a 2krms system in my Lexus GS300's trunk...
When I was installing my system (2 RE SX 10's and a Hifonics 2krms amp) I tested the amp and subs before installing the extra battery... I had lots of dimming and wasn't impressed with the output, especialy on the long deep bass notes. I then did some tests after I installed the battery in the trunk and all dimming went away and the bass was much more powerfull on the long deep bass notes. It was a huge difference, very noticable to even the novice caraudio enthusiast.
The main reason for keeping a large 2600ca battery w/ high Ah rating 160 or higher in the trunk is mainly due to the fact that you can't fit these large 70lb-100lb types of batteries under the hood of our GS's. Having short 2foot power runs to the amp helps prevent loss.
Don't mind the ghettoness of it, havn't put any trim panels on or fiberglassed anything yet, but you can get an idea of the battery size...
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-and-pics.html
Last edited by SHiZNiLTi; 06-29-09 at 02:28 PM.
06-29-09, 03:40 PM
#18
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lol, Big Mack dropped hella names I still don't think your thoughts on the electrical system are correct though...
I see where your coming from on everything else you said. It's good to know another person knows caraudio here, didn't mean to offend you or anything, but I'm just talking from pure experience I had a few weeks ago with just setting up a 2krms system in my Lexus GS300's trunk...
I still don't think your thoughts on the electrical system are correct though...I see where your coming from on everything else you said. It's good to know another person knows caraudio here, didn't mean to offend you or anything, but I'm just talking from pure experience I had a few weeks ago with just setting up a 2krms system in my Lexus GS300's trunk...
When I was installing my system (2 RE SX 10's and a Hifonics 2krms amp) I tested the amp and subs before installing the extra battery... I had lots of dimming and wasn't impressed with the output, especialy on the long deep bass notes. I then did some tests after I installed the battery in the trunk and all dimming went away and the bass was much more powerfull on the long deep bass notes. It was a huge difference, very noticable to even the novice caraudio enthusiast.
The main reason for keeping a large 2600ca battery w/ high Ah rating 160 or higher in the trunk is mainly due to the fact that you can't fit these large 70lb-100lb types of batteries under the hood of our GS's. Having short 2foot power runs to the amp helps prevent loss.
The main reason for keeping a large 2600ca battery w/ high Ah rating 160 or higher in the trunk is mainly due to the fact that you can't fit these large 70lb-100lb types of batteries under the hood of our GS's. Having short 2foot power runs to the amp helps prevent loss.
Big Mack
Last edited by Big Mack; 06-29-09 at 09:27 PM.
06-29-09, 04:07 PM
#20
Big Mack is right about the battery will give an extra load on the alternator. Because the extra battery will get drained by the amps, with that said, the battery will go low. So, that is when the alternator kicks in. So instead of one battery, the alternator needs to charge up TWO batteries at the same time. Respectively.
06-29-09, 04:44 PM
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I suppose it depends on how the batteries are connected. To say the one battery will go dead, and then the other will follow would never be the case. An isolator will switch the two batteries back and forth, with the alternator charging one or the other. No matter how many 12 volt DC batteries you have in series, 2 or 200 it is still 12 volts, the alternator does not "see" one battery or the other, it just puts out current until the voltage regulator tells it to stop.
True, if your current demand was always more than the supply, you would get dimming, alternator damge and all those other bad things. From my point of view, and what I have done over the years, extra batteries have always been a good thing. The batteries have always stayed with the current demands. Now franted, IF I were to crank the crap outta of the audion system, putting in a constant state of maximum current draw, eventually the batteries would get low, and the alternator would need to catch up. If the car were sitting, not running, and turned up loud, the batteries would get sucked dry, alternator or not.
Of course while driving your getting some charge on the batteries, and so far, the volume of music, and the length of time I play it loud, has not out lasted my Stingers, and the stock alternator's ability to charge them.
Your points are well taken Mac and SHiZNiLTi. This is one of the best threads I have seen on CL.
True, if your current demand was always more than the supply, you would get dimming, alternator damge and all those other bad things. From my point of view, and what I have done over the years, extra batteries have always been a good thing. The batteries have always stayed with the current demands. Now franted, IF I were to crank the crap outta of the audion system, putting in a constant state of maximum current draw, eventually the batteries would get low, and the alternator would need to catch up. If the car were sitting, not running, and turned up loud, the batteries would get sucked dry, alternator or not.
Of course while driving your getting some charge on the batteries, and so far, the volume of music, and the length of time I play it loud, has not out lasted my Stingers, and the stock alternator's ability to charge them.
Your points are well taken Mac and SHiZNiLTi. This is one of the best threads I have seen on CL.
07-02-09, 03:46 PM
#23
only bout 250.....and im not done yet, im doing the front doors (i've done the back doors), inside the doors, the complete roof, and most of the interior if not all of it
that's dedication to the mat. I love it
Big Mack, what kind of car audio experience do you have? I'm just wondering because your making it sound like you somewhat know what your talking about, but your way wrong by saying that a battery doesn't do anything for your system except cause more load for the alternator.
I've built and designed (6) 140db+ and (3) 150db+ @ TL on Dash systems in my time, most consisting of 18" Fi BTL, RE SX's, 18" RE MT's, 15" L7, etc. I've been activly posting and talking with some of the most respected builders in the caraudio community on http://www.caraudio.com/forum/ so I'd like to think I know what I'm talking about when it comes to car audio.
A battery in the trunk like the one I currently use... 70lb Kinetik HC2400: 2600 Cranking Amps with 128 Amp Hours makes a night n' day difference...
http://www.woofersetc.com/p4580/HC24...Power-Cell.htm
sakataj, I'd do the BIG 3 in Kicker 1/0 and also run the same 1/0 gauge all the way to the trunk. This Kicker power cable is the best you can get for the price, if you search around you can find it for $100...
http://www.woofersetc.com/p2991/PKD1...-Power-Kit.htm
I do agree with Big Mack that the alternator upgrade is key, I've ordered a 260amp alternator from Iraggi and it made a huge difference when I was running a Rockford BD40001 4000rms amp powering a couple 18" RE MT's...
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Iraggi-A...__W0QQ_armrsZ1
If your on a budget I'd hold off on getting an alternator right now and just get a battery in the back similar to the Kinetik linked above so this way it can be worked into the trunk with the sub box build.
sakataj, What's the coil configuration on the sub, is it the older version XXX or the new version? A XXX is very close to the RE MT series subs I've ran in the past, I'd say you want around 2000rms to work with for that sub.
The most important thing to look at in your build is going to be box design, I can't stress this the most... I hate seeing amazing equipment put into a vehicle and setup more for show, rather then for output.
Let me know the details of the sub and I'll give you some numbers to work with for sub box design. I've got 7-8 people in my caraudio.com contacts that have 12" RE XXX's and most of them are doing 2.5cuft at 35hz with 55sq.in. of port area.
I've built and designed (6) 140db+ and (3) 150db+ @ TL on Dash systems in my time, most consisting of 18" Fi BTL, RE SX's, 18" RE MT's, 15" L7, etc. I've been activly posting and talking with some of the most respected builders in the caraudio community on http://www.caraudio.com/forum/ so I'd like to think I know what I'm talking about when it comes to car audio.
A battery in the trunk like the one I currently use... 70lb Kinetik HC2400: 2600 Cranking Amps with 128 Amp Hours makes a night n' day difference...
http://www.woofersetc.com/p4580/HC24...Power-Cell.htm
sakataj, I'd do the BIG 3 in Kicker 1/0 and also run the same 1/0 gauge all the way to the trunk. This Kicker power cable is the best you can get for the price, if you search around you can find it for $100...
http://www.woofersetc.com/p2991/PKD1...-Power-Kit.htm
I do agree with Big Mack that the alternator upgrade is key, I've ordered a 260amp alternator from Iraggi and it made a huge difference when I was running a Rockford BD40001 4000rms amp powering a couple 18" RE MT's...
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Iraggi-A...__W0QQ_armrsZ1
If your on a budget I'd hold off on getting an alternator right now and just get a battery in the back similar to the Kinetik linked above so this way it can be worked into the trunk with the sub box build.
sakataj, What's the coil configuration on the sub, is it the older version XXX or the new version? A XXX is very close to the RE MT series subs I've ran in the past, I'd say you want around 2000rms to work with for that sub.
The most important thing to look at in your build is going to be box design, I can't stress this the most... I hate seeing amazing equipment put into a vehicle and setup more for show, rather then for output.
Let me know the details of the sub and I'll give you some numbers to work with for sub box design. I've got 7-8 people in my caraudio.com contacts that have 12" RE XXX's and most of them are doing 2.5cuft at 35hz with 55sq.in. of port area.
its a 2008 NIB RE AUDIO XXX 12" 2 ohm so you tell me if its a newer or older version, i dunno when they switched. i was afraid i would have to get that much power....any suggestions? kinda wish u were here to build me a box btw
thanks
yeah....but not even half of how much i will have, wait till im done
07-02-09, 04:43 PM
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Big Mack
07-02-09, 10:20 PM
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Get yourself the Tru Hammer. At that ohm load, it should deliver about 1500 watts and will look fantastic doing it. I see them for about $1K on fleabay. I also know several people who own them and they are very, VERY well made. Hard to beat hand made quality. Never mind that I own one myself.
Big Mack
Big Mack
07-02-09, 10:22 PM
#30
Get yourself the Tru Hammer. At that ohm load, it should deliver about 1500 watts and will look fantastic doing it. I see them for about $1K on fleabay. I also know several people who own them and they are very, VERY well made. Hard to beat hand made quality. Never mind that I own one myself.
Big Mack
Big Mack
If money is no object the best is the TRU SledgeHammer 2 hammers in one chassis.
1 x 2000W @ 4 ohms
1 x 3000W @ 2 ohms
1 x 4000W @ 1 ohm
