sakataj

iTrader: (182)

temporarily on hold, discussing/deciding on a setup that wouldnt require me to utilize the alpine hub and another piece as i really dont wanna do the stupid bmw 7 series scroll wheel the alpine hub uses.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

You didn't seal the opening in the doors? And yes, that's gonna be one heavy GS.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

no, i didnt seal the opening of the doors, y would i? no way to get back in them if i did that without tearing the dynamat, plus your not supposed to just seal it off.

yeah she's getting even fatter, i got another box of dynamat in the trunk to apply lol....

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

I've always sealed the doors with deadening, keeps the front and back wave of the speaker seperated as well as possible. You'd have to cut the deadening if you need to service something, but you can always redo it. I've also seen it done with plexiglass screwed to the door, not sure how well that would work in the GS with all the wiring that comes through there though.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

And I'm thinking it's overkill (over deadening)...make sure you watch out for emergency vehicle because you will not hear them. I did minimal dynamat and it did a good job of deadening outside noises.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

You're kidding right? You should read on the advantages of such a degree of deadening... I've seen more done to a car than this. You only did it for deadening outside noises, this will deaden ALL noises from coming in or out thus creating an awesome stage for great sound and music listening. Moving/vibrating parts dont just make noise, they can cancel bass as well. and I hope you were joking about 'watching out for emergency vehicles' cause that was comedy.

bigguppy

iTrader: (15)

Brian your a dynamat wh*** lol

Since you got those doors off have you consider custom baffles for the speaker?

EDIT: I know you looking to do a black interor swap. You mind as well have a shop or do it yourself and dye that carpet. I test "Dupli-Color High Performance Vinyl & Fabric Spray" in hidden area and it turn out great. I am gonna finish this up when I get time. Something you may want to think about. Also I ask around here in socal for dash wrap in black leather and red stitching avg price is $600-$700 if the dash is off. Just food for thought.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

I guess we all have different goal. It will sound awesome... a moving concert. I'm not kidding about the Emergency vehicles... you may not hear them coming. I had that issue, but I guess I had the music up a little bit.

I kinda sealed the doors a little bit too.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Gotta remember too that high end cars are deadened this way to achieve absolutely no road noise as well.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

maybe add another layer -"cross hatched"- make the strips wide enough. That would add structural integrity without adding too much weight. I would do that to the same panel where the speakers are installed. Other areas, I would just do one layer. Think honeycomb.


I guess, I just got some more dynamats yesterday...I will do some more dampening to get cleaner and louder sound without turning the volume up.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

yeah so whats the point though kyle....when/if u have to work on something in there?

lol, ok. i will.......

someone lit a fire in your belly. no i havent forgotten bout the lights...i need to find some resistors. send me a paypal invoice for them i will just go ahead and get them i guess. add them to my pile of stuff to work on...

haha ben i know. i have a box of dynamat in the trunk and been doing some more interior dynamatting.

havent considered the custom baffles yet, gonna see how the diamonds sound after they install them.

yeah see the 600-700 for a dash wrap is just to much when for around 700-1000 more i can get a WHOLE swap. i mean i thought bout something like that but even if i do that i still need black seats,A+B+C pillars, seats, door panels, etc etc so i STILL would be out a fortune. yeah i would LOVE to have black carpet, i will look into that stuff. tracking dynamat throughout my car has left some undesired black spots. im already steam cleaing EVERY panel as i take it off. fixing to scrub my headliner.....

i dont know what my goal anymore is....i started off with just some dynamat now i have a car covered in it. started off with a simple sub now i have a audio theater going on. this WAS supposed to just be a replacement of the sub to something a tad better now look where i am


MORE PICS TO COME.....and FINALLY paying for my alternator. still need to pick up my kinetic hc2400, my 1/2 din dvd player (any suggestions on this one guys the audiovox seems to be just bout discontinued) and my amp which is at the shop.

finished my BIG 3 although mine is a BIG 5 i will post some pics/measurements of it in the next week or so

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

well, i have emailed dominique for last 2 days so i can get my alt ordered but he hasnt returned my email yet.

so some new pics.... also check out my battery tie down. FIGS made it for me, along with my battery tray which isnt shown

did my BIG 3 (actually mine is a BIG 5) also took some measurements for people who wanna do this for themselves also. keep in mind some of these are a little longer than needed but figured it would be better to have longer ones than shorter ones to make it easier to run the wire to the alternator and under the air intake i removed the oem intake temporarily


so here is a summary of the measurements

Battery To Frame Is 25"
Engine To Frame Is 25"
Battery To Strut Bar is 32"
Frame/Chassis To Intake Manifold Is 12"
Negative Battery To Negative Alternator Is 61"
Positive Battery To Positive Alternator Is 61"


some 0 gauge wires i had started with.




these are all the gounds, either the wire or the actual grounding spot





the battery to frame is 25" and i used the oem grounding spot






the engine to frame is also 25" i used this mounting tab (its hidden in this pic but i have a better one)






Close Up








this bolts up right in front of the other oem ground, it used the mount where the horn bolts up






battery to strut bar is 32" (lengthened to hide the cable behind the fuse boxes and the battery) i removed the fuse box,strut bar to mount this stealthy







cable wrapped around the back side of the battery






chassis/frame to intake manifold 12" (look how puny the oem wire looks compared to the 0 gauge wire)





the battery to alternator is 61".u can see the oem ground in the lower right corner in this pic if u need a idea of how i routed this check the pic above with the red arrows (2nd Pic)
















here is my drivers side B Pillar, have to finish up my front passenger door, start my drivers door, finish my passenger B pillar, and my seating area of the back then MAYBE some on the floor but i doubt it

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

Nice work on the grounds and getting pics Brian. Should be helpful to have that detailed info.

I believe you're midbass is improved by sealing the door as well as possible if you're running the mids IB.

sam430

iTrader: (10)

You didn't do the Positive alt to positive battery? If you do, good idea to have a fuse between them.

sakataj

iTrader: (182)

thanks man. i figured someone else would need the info. lol, audio isnt my thing kyle.... i assume IB stands for internally baffled but i dont know what this means....like in my application? so i SHOULD seal the door completely then...? i have had competition sound systems but like before i would drop them off and say ok do this. this is a attempt at me becoming more involved/hands on

SIGH....was i supposed to? i havent seen any one do this...although maybe i have, i do recall seeing ONE pic of a 0 gauge coming off someone's positive side of the battery. where is the positive alternator post located at?

audio shop didn't even mention this when i went over with them all the grounds i was doing.so GUYS am i supposed to do this.....?



anyone ever seen this? its a power distribution system built for the yellow top optima's. what do you'll think?

http://www.autotoys.com/x/catalog/BA....html#pictures