sakataj

iTrader: (182)

if any of you have a re audio XXX series sub, what kinda power you putting to it? i just bought a NIB RE AUDIO XXX 12" sub for DIRT,DIRT CHEAP but im wanting to see how much power people actually putting to them, i know what they call for but really what are you putting on them. also will one RE 12 require a 2nd battery/bigger alternator.

im getting the car prepped and ready for my huge audio build as you can see below

Kyle Harty

iTrader: (17)

I had an '04 XXX 18" in my old car, I was giving it about 1800 watts and I'm sure it could've taken more. I haven't followed the audio scene for a while but I'm sure the new ones can take at least as much as the old ones.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

How much did u spend on those dynamats?

jhill20

iTrader: (1)

i think you missed a spot over in the corner over there that's dedication to the mat. I love it

VNN326

iTrader: (21)

damn looks like my car. but i didnt do the rear spare and deep inside the car. looks good though !

mtparker18

good job with the mat.
as far as the batt/alt, it all depends on the amp. Big 3 definitely. I have a 500w jl in my car and I have minor dimming. anything bigger I'd definitely do atleast a battery.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

I agree.

For the purpose of what? Further loading the system? Additional batteries do nothing for the vehicle while running except add additional load to the alternator (provided you're not using an isolator). Batteries are storage - plain and simple. If you are dimming, you are exceeding the ability of the car to keep up with the demand you are placing on it - the alternator being the supplier. Is the JL the only amp you have? (it's not clear from your sig what is current) If so, I'd be very surprised, since the car has a 100A alternator and that amp shouldn't be drawing enough to get above 45% of the output of it. Also, keep in mind that you need sufficient gauge power and ground cables in order to feed larger amps. For the JL, due to the length of the car, I'd go no less than 4 gauge.

If you have mild dimming, a capacitor should help alleviate the problem. If you have major dimming, you're only going to waste money with a cap - you need an alternator that can keep up with the demand.

Big Mack

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

^ If you take the time to understand his point of view. You will learn a lot from this guy.

mtparker18

I am running a 300/4 and a 500/1 (never got to change my sig). I have like 8g wire, which is my BIGGEST problem. and You are correct, I was just giving my opinion due to my prior experiences.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for clarifying, and for the props.

If you're running 8 gauge, you are putting the wiring in danger, mang. The most current you should be drawing through 8 gauge is about 50 amps, and that's at around 15 feet at the most. Given that it's under carpet, it does decrease to about 45, and the distance in the car is about 18. I'd strongly recommend getting yourself some 4 gauge in there ASAP. And definitely upgrade the battery connections to 4 ga at the same time if you haven't already. I'd be surprised if you get dimming once you have done this, since your current draw shouldn't be outlandish.

Big Mack

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I've done as low 400wrms to the XXX before and it was fine. The key is to have a box that's able to make the most out of the power available.

GCOP

I would have to agree about upgrading the 8AWG. think about the wire as a water pipe, and the water being current, the bigger the pipe, the more you will flow.

I do have to disagree somewhat with the statement about additional batteries doing nothing. I have an MTX T1501D on 2 Eclipse 88120's, along with a 4 ch. amp as well. To back up the current demand, I have 3 Stinger dry cells, all in parallel. The Stingers are feed by 1/0AWG, the T1501 is also fed by 1/0 and the the 4 ch by 4 AWG via a distribution block. No cap, no isolator, no problems.

I'm not saying doing the alternator, or isolator etc. is not a good idea, just my experience. I also had a single additional battery in my SC300 for about 3 years, the car went through 3 different audio incarnations, with the last including 3 amps, and Dolby 5.1 with a true center channel. No issues there either.

SHiZNiLTi

Big Mack, what kind of car audio experience do you have? I'm just wondering because your making it sound like you somewhat know what your talking about, but your way wrong by saying that a battery doesn't do anything for your system except cause more load for the alternator.

I've built and designed (6) 140db+ and (3) 150db+ @ TL on Dash systems in my time, most consisting of 18" Fi BTL, RE SX's, 18" RE MT's, 15" L7, etc. I've been activly posting and talking with some of the most respected builders in the caraudio community on http://www.caraudio.com/forum/ so I'd like to think I know what I'm talking about when it comes to car audio.

A battery in the trunk like the one I currently use... 70lb Kinetik HC2400: 2600 Cranking Amps with 128 Amp Hours makes a night n' day difference...

http://www.woofersetc.com/p4580/HC24...Power-Cell.htm

sakataj, I'd do the BIG 3 in Kicker 1/0 and also run the same 1/0 gauge all the way to the trunk. This Kicker power cable is the best you can get for the price, if you search around you can find it for $100...

http://www.woofersetc.com/p2991/PKD1...-Power-Kit.htm

I do agree with Big Mack that the alternator upgrade is key, I've ordered a 260amp alternator from Iraggi and it made a huge difference when I was running a Rockford BD40001 4000rms amp powering a couple 18" RE MT's...

http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Iraggi-A...__W0QQ_armrsZ1

If your on a budget I'd hold off on getting an alternator right now and just get a battery in the back similar to the Kinetik linked above so this way it can be worked into the trunk with the sub box build.

sakataj, What's the coil configuration on the sub, is it the older version XXX or the new version? A XXX is very close to the RE MT series subs I've ran in the past, I'd say you want around 2000rms to work with for that sub.

The most important thing to look at in your build is going to be box design, I can't stress this the most... I hate seeing amazing equipment put into a vehicle and setup more for show, rather then for output.

Let me know the details of the sub and I'll give you some numbers to work with for sub box design. I've got 7-8 people in my caraudio.com contacts that have 12" RE XXX's and most of them are doing 2.5cuft at 35hz with 55sq.in. of port area.

Big Mack

iTrader: (1)

Yep. An analogy I've used many times over the years.

Let me clarify a bit further - they do nothing if the alternator is not keeping up besides present an additional load for it to try and charge once they lose their voltage above their charge point. They will provide extended engine off time, but that's not my concern usually since it's reserved for show cars or drive in theaters (not there are many of these anymore ).

Once again - the added current is nice, provided the alternator keeps up.

None. I have never built, installed, or even listened to a stereo other than a Walkman. Just kidding, mang. I have to kind of take offense to the idea that I "somewhat know what I'm talking about" but that I'm "way wrong by saying that a battery doesn't do anything for your system except cause more load for the alternator."

I have actually worked with some of the most respected builders in the industry, and am friends with many more. Not to be a name dropper, but I used to regularly have dinner with Todd Ramsay and Rob Hephner from Carsound (who used to instruct at Mobile Dynamics), Alma Gates, Larry Fredericks (who designed amps for small companies you may have heard of - Phoenix Gold, Audison), Matt Borgardt who has been in the industry for quite some time and is considered by many to be a master fabricator, and a host of others. I was a very active member of Soundillusions.net, having been the supermod there. RE had a forum there, and the designers of the FI lines did as well (IIRC). I'm also very close with some of the SPL competitors on there, and we've discussed this at length. I'm pretty confident in my knowledge - which is not to say I cannot learn, though. I love this game, so I'll always broaden my knowledge when I can. In this area, though, I've been taught by many top champions of the game, and I ran a shop for several years. I am also a certified judge for IASCA/USAC in both SQ and SPL. I've built many systems capable of 140+ dB's, and worked on several others that could do over 150 dB's. Living in the hotbed of audio like both of us do has its privileges!

As I clarified above - batteries do nothing unless the alternator is keeping up with the demands. If you have dimming - it's not. Replacing the battery under the hood with a better grade, such as your Kinetik, will help, but you also have to make sure the power runs can handle it and not lose voltage through the draw. I didn't want to shoot over the heads of the majority, but I'm good with clarifying it.

I agree - provided your alternator is keeping up. Once the voltage drops below charge level, it's a load just like all the rest.

Kicker is good, but there are plenty of companies that compete with it on price and quality. Knuconceptz is another option.

See? We on the same page!

Gotta disagree, mang. See reasoning above. If anything replace the battery under the hood with the Kinetik, use big runs (like the 1/0), and you should be okay as long as you're not drawing more than the alternator has available.

I think you meant that you can't stress this enough, but I unnerstanded it. It's all based on goals, too, though. Not everyone wants a pure SPL setup, which let's be honest, can be brutally ugly. I agree that it's important when buying quality components to do a quality install, though.

That's a good offer for those who need it. Big props, mang!

Big Mack

PS: sorry for the uberlong postage. It's a fun topic, though!

mtparker18

I know man. I plan on having my whole trunk redone and having 2g run through out my car. thanks.