Are these good rotors?
#1
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looking for some good rotors for my gs400
searched ebay and found these
dont know too much about rotors but im looking for some cross drilled slotted ones for shorter stopping distance without upgrading calipers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
searched ebay and found these
dont know too much about rotors but im looking for some cross drilled slotted ones for shorter stopping distance without upgrading calipers
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
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When the gas builds up between pad and rotor there is LESS friction applied, the holes move the gas away so this doesn't happen. Simply put, a cross drilled rotor from a reputible manufacture will out perform a stock rotor given the same conditions, pad type, vehicle etc.
That being said, don't buy any knock off "house brand" rotor from ebay, most of these guys take an already made stock rotor and just machine holes and or slots after the fact, those will indeed crack, but again, not a rotor from a reputible source, Brembo, etc. Lots of guys here are running different combos x-drilled/slotted with great results.
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#8
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honestly get whatever you want.
I suggest getting better brake pads.. while others suggest drilled/slotted rotors. its your money use it wisely.
as for pads.. currently im running Endless Vita Neova pads. they bite pretty hard for a street friendly pad. so far they are good.. now the weakest link are my tires.. gotta get fatter tires or at least straighten out the camber.
I suggest getting better brake pads.. while others suggest drilled/slotted rotors. its your money use it wisely.
as for pads.. currently im running Endless Vita Neova pads. they bite pretty hard for a street friendly pad. so far they are good.. now the weakest link are my tires.. gotta get fatter tires or at least straighten out the camber.
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Keep in mind that unless you are racing, adding more stopping power shouldn't be needed. A change in your driving habits would be a better option, as even with improved stopping power from rotors or pads, you shouldn't count on them stopping you at a certain distance every single time because road conditions may affect it.
Also, you have to remember that slotted rotors cannot be turned, so once they get worn a bit or get a groove, they need to be replaced. Not exactly a cheap proposition. I'd try better gripping pads first.
Big Mack
Also, you have to remember that slotted rotors cannot be turned, so once they get worn a bit or get a groove, they need to be replaced. Not exactly a cheap proposition. I'd try better gripping pads first.
Big Mack
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pepboys brand ! last forever with lifetime warranty, have no problems whatsoever for the past year. IMO, I wouldnt dare take a step into rotors that have not been premade x drilled or slotted. Buying rotors that are drilled to be "x drilled" is asking for it. I've seen my fair share of cracked rotors and rotors that are not straight. My friend just bought a pair on ebay, put it on his car, the car started making BAD weird noise in the front. When they jacked up the car, turned the wheel off the ground, turned out the rotor was out of spec, and was hitting the brake caliper mount.
At least with pepboys brand, All I have to do is run down to my local store and swap them out no questions asked.
But all depends on what your doing, if your not racing your car or have Extensive mods, imo, the stock brakes are just fine.
At least with pepboys brand, All I have to do is run down to my local store and swap them out no questions asked.
But all depends on what your doing, if your not racing your car or have Extensive mods, imo, the stock brakes are just fine.
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oem size cross drilled slotted rotors are just for looks...get BBK but even that it somewhat just for looks, theres been plenty of research that BBK dont help with braking so much as a good set of tires would.
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There should be plenty of sellers in the Vendor forum you can ask question and buy. I just bought a complete set of Sportstop drilled and Hawk pads from one of the vendor there(Jay@US-Autotech). Very satisfied with it so far.
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From another board:
drilled - only improvement is with lighter weight. Otherwise, they have far less mass and will not tolerate heating up. They are less structurally rigid because of the drilling done, and can crack. Drilling is NOT to affect cooling. Venting affects cooling, not holes in the channels. They will definately run hotter than solid rotors. They are only really used to compete in auto-x, and those racers swiss the hell out of them to achieve the lightest rotor possible to improve their unsprung mass and rotational mass (quicker response). These guys don't reach very high speeds and only use their brakes for short stints, so it is ok for them.
slotted - I believe these were developed to help channel out gasses that escape from some pads. Most pads these days don't expell gasses, so it is not necessary.
solid rotors - buy them.
Drilled and slotted are mostly available for people to add "bling", they have little practical benefit and cost considerably more.
IMHO I would look for 2pc rotors where you can easily REPLACE the friction surface
drilled - only improvement is with lighter weight. Otherwise, they have far less mass and will not tolerate heating up. They are less structurally rigid because of the drilling done, and can crack. Drilling is NOT to affect cooling. Venting affects cooling, not holes in the channels. They will definately run hotter than solid rotors. They are only really used to compete in auto-x, and those racers swiss the hell out of them to achieve the lightest rotor possible to improve their unsprung mass and rotational mass (quicker response). These guys don't reach very high speeds and only use their brakes for short stints, so it is ok for them.
slotted - I believe these were developed to help channel out gasses that escape from some pads. Most pads these days don't expell gasses, so it is not necessary.
solid rotors - buy them.
Drilled and slotted are mostly available for people to add "bling", they have little practical benefit and cost considerably more.
IMHO I would look for 2pc rotors where you can easily REPLACE the friction surface
#14
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From another board:
drilled - only improvement is with lighter weight. Otherwise, they have far less mass and will not tolerate heating up. They are less structurally rigid because of the drilling done, and can crack. Drilling is NOT to affect cooling. Venting affects cooling, not holes in the channels. They will definately run hotter than solid rotors. They are only really used to compete in auto-x, and those racers swiss the hell out of them to achieve the lightest rotor possible to improve their unsprung mass and rotational mass (quicker response). These guys don't reach very high speeds and only use their brakes for short stints, so it is ok for them.
slotted - I believe these were developed to help channel out gasses that escape from some pads. Most pads these days don't expell gasses, so it is not necessary.
solid rotors - buy them.
Drilled and slotted are mostly available for people to add "bling", they have little practical benefit and cost considerably more.
IMHO I would look for 2pc rotors where you can easily REPLACE the friction surface
drilled - only improvement is with lighter weight. Otherwise, they have far less mass and will not tolerate heating up. They are less structurally rigid because of the drilling done, and can crack. Drilling is NOT to affect cooling. Venting affects cooling, not holes in the channels. They will definately run hotter than solid rotors. They are only really used to compete in auto-x, and those racers swiss the hell out of them to achieve the lightest rotor possible to improve their unsprung mass and rotational mass (quicker response). These guys don't reach very high speeds and only use their brakes for short stints, so it is ok for them.
slotted - I believe these were developed to help channel out gasses that escape from some pads. Most pads these days don't expell gasses, so it is not necessary.
solid rotors - buy them.
Drilled and slotted are mostly available for people to add "bling", they have little practical benefit and cost considerably more.
IMHO I would look for 2pc rotors where you can easily REPLACE the friction surface
which only means... just get pads for stopping.