KiPod's GS Pic & Mod thread
09-14-18, 10:17 AM
#181
09-14-18, 12:27 PM
#182
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Location: Colorado
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Ok i will try to follow the wiring that you posted also thank you for responding and providing all you have, and hope everything works out by following this . I just wish you had more specific labeling for the wiring you posted... because typically on wiring instructions or diagrams it shows the wire color, pin# AND function(s). You on the other hand only have the wire color and pin# and given theres no body pinout information on the gs400 in all of the internet it seems like you just have to wire it up how you posted in trust and hopes it all works without knowing forsure what each wire actually does. Yes i know theres a 2jz gte wiring diagram on wilbo666 but theres not one for the 1uz vvti so not sure how you figured this all out but ill let you know how it turns out.
09-16-18, 05:22 PM
#183
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Okay, here is the info for what ECU pins I moved for the swap. If the pins were in the same spot I left them alone & will skip them on the list. I only listed the wires that need to be moved to a different location or removed from the connector. I will list the connector w/ pin where it was for the 98 GS400 then where it needs to be for the Aristo.
Connectors E2, E3, & E4 run from the engine to the ECU so they should all be in the correct place alreay (if your swap came with ECU & harness together). Connectors E5, E6, & E7 are from the vehicle body to the ECU so these need to be moved to match the new ECU. On my Aristo ECU there was no slot for the E7 connector so I listed those as "remove" as well.
If I say "remove" it's because it is either already in the correct location on the Aristo harness (in connector E2, E3, or E4) or you don't need this wire. You should remove it from the connector and tape it off. The list should read like this,
98 GS400 location (Wire Color) - Aristo location
So, you would move pin 2 on connector E5 on the GS400 harness (Red wire with Black stripe) to pin 16 on connector E5 for the Aristo ECU.
E5 pin 2 (RED/black) - E5 pin 16
E5 pin 3 (GREEN/black) - remove
E5 pin 4 (GREEN) - remove
E5 pin 7 (GREY/black) - remove
E5 pin 8 (GREY) - remove
E5 pin 10 (WHITE/red) - remove
E5 pin 15 (RED/white) - E5 pin 26
E5 pin 16 (BLACK/yellow) - connect to ignitor for tach signal (you will need a tach adapter to get it to work with a 400 cluster)
E5 pin 17 (BLACK) - E5 pin 2
E5 pin 18 (WHITE) - E5 pin 8
E5 pin 19 (WHITE/green) - remove
E5 pin 20 (GREEN/red) - remove
E5 pin 22 (BLUE/yellow) - E5 pin 18
E5 pin 25 (RED/white) - remove
E5 pin 26 (WHITE/black) - E6 pin 22
E5 pin 27 (RED) - remove
E5 pin 28 (YELLOW/red) - remove
E6 pin 3 (BLUE/black) - E3 pin 8
E6 pin 22 (GREEN/red) - E6 pin 15
If your Aristo ECU is like mine & doesn't have a slot for the E7 connector, you don't have to remove these wires. Since the connector is left hanging loose it will not interfere with anything.
E7 pin 1 (YELLOW/black) - E5 pin 17
E7 pin 2 (BLUE/yellow) - remove
E7 pin 3 (VIOLET or Purple) - remove
E7 pin 4 (WHITE/black) - remove
E7 pin 11 (WHITE) - E5 pin 28
E7 pin 14 (BLACK/blue) - E5 pin 11
E7 pin 15 (RED/green) - remove
E7 pin 16 (RED/yellow) - remove
E7 pin 17 (BLUE/red) - remove
E7 pin 18 (GREEN/black) - remove
E7 pin 19 (BLACK/white) - remove
E7 pin 20 (YELLOW) - remove
E7 pin 21 (GREY) - remove
E7 pin 22 (LIGHT GREEN/red) - E5 pin 10
E7 pin 23 (BLUE/black) - E5 pin 21
E7 pin 24 (BLACK) - E5 pin 27
E7 pin 25 (YELLOW/green) - E5 pin 7
E7 pin 26 (PINK/blue) - E2 pin 26
Sorry, if it's confusing. Sometimes things make sense in my mind but they don't come out as coherent. I think there were 1 or 2 other wires I had to move to get the shift indicator & shift lock to work. I think they were in the grey junction block beside the ECU & next to the orange junction block. I can't remember for sure though. If someone does this and runs into a problem with them I can check to see what mine look like.
Connectors E2, E3, & E4 run from the engine to the ECU so they should all be in the correct place alreay (if your swap came with ECU & harness together). Connectors E5, E6, & E7 are from the vehicle body to the ECU so these need to be moved to match the new ECU. On my Aristo ECU there was no slot for the E7 connector so I listed those as "remove" as well.
If I say "remove" it's because it is either already in the correct location on the Aristo harness (in connector E2, E3, or E4) or you don't need this wire. You should remove it from the connector and tape it off. The list should read like this,
98 GS400 location (Wire Color) - Aristo location
So, you would move pin 2 on connector E5 on the GS400 harness (Red wire with Black stripe) to pin 16 on connector E5 for the Aristo ECU.
E5 pin 2 (RED/black) - E5 pin 16
E5 pin 3 (GREEN/black) - remove
E5 pin 4 (GREEN) - remove
E5 pin 7 (GREY/black) - remove
E5 pin 8 (GREY) - remove
E5 pin 10 (WHITE/red) - remove
E5 pin 15 (RED/white) - E5 pin 26
E5 pin 16 (BLACK/yellow) - connect to ignitor for tach signal (you will need a tach adapter to get it to work with a 400 cluster)
E5 pin 17 (BLACK) - E5 pin 2
E5 pin 18 (WHITE) - E5 pin 8
E5 pin 19 (WHITE/green) - remove
E5 pin 20 (GREEN/red) - remove
E5 pin 22 (BLUE/yellow) - E5 pin 18
E5 pin 25 (RED/white) - remove
E5 pin 26 (WHITE/black) - E6 pin 22
E5 pin 27 (RED) - remove
E5 pin 28 (YELLOW/red) - remove
E6 pin 3 (BLUE/black) - E3 pin 8
E6 pin 22 (GREEN/red) - E6 pin 15
If your Aristo ECU is like mine & doesn't have a slot for the E7 connector, you don't have to remove these wires. Since the connector is left hanging loose it will not interfere with anything.
E7 pin 1 (YELLOW/black) - E5 pin 17
E7 pin 2 (BLUE/yellow) - remove
E7 pin 3 (VIOLET or Purple) - remove
E7 pin 4 (WHITE/black) - remove
E7 pin 11 (WHITE) - E5 pin 28
E7 pin 14 (BLACK/blue) - E5 pin 11
E7 pin 15 (RED/green) - remove
E7 pin 16 (RED/yellow) - remove
E7 pin 17 (BLUE/red) - remove
E7 pin 18 (GREEN/black) - remove
E7 pin 19 (BLACK/white) - remove
E7 pin 20 (YELLOW) - remove
E7 pin 21 (GREY) - remove
E7 pin 22 (LIGHT GREEN/red) - E5 pin 10
E7 pin 23 (BLUE/black) - E5 pin 21
E7 pin 24 (BLACK) - E5 pin 27
E7 pin 25 (YELLOW/green) - E5 pin 7
E7 pin 26 (PINK/blue) - E2 pin 26
Sorry, if it's confusing. Sometimes things make sense in my mind but they don't come out as coherent. I think there were 1 or 2 other wires I had to move to get the shift indicator & shift lock to work. I think they were in the grey junction block beside the ECU & next to the orange junction block. I can't remember for sure though. If someone does this and runs into a problem with them I can check to see what mine look like.
09-16-18, 05:31 PM
#184
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Okay, here is the info for what ECU pins I moved for the swap. If the pins were in the same spot I left them alone & will skip them on the list. I only listed the wires that need to be moved to a different location or removed from the connector. I will list the connector w/ pin where it was for the 98 GS400 then where it needs to be for the Aristo.
Connectors E2, E3, & E4 run from the engine to the ECU so they should all be in the correct place alreay (if your swap came with ECU & harness together). Connectors E5, E6, & E7 are from the vehicle body to the ECU so these need to be moved to match the new ECU. On my Aristo ECU there was no slot for the E7 connector so I listed those as "remove" as well.
If I say "remove" it's because it is either already in the correct location on the Aristo harness (in connector E2, E3, or E4) or you don't need this wire. You should remove it from the connector and tape it off. The list should read like this,
98 GS400 location (Wire Color) - Aristo location
So, you would move pin 2 on connector E5 on the GS400 harness (Red wire with Black stripe) to pin 16 on connector E5 for the Aristo ECU.
E5 pin 2 (RED/black) - E5 pin 16
E5 pin 3 (GREEN/black) - remove
E5 pin 4 (GREEN) - remove
E5 pin 7 (GREY/black) - remove
E5 pin 8 (GREY) - remove
E5 pin 10 (WHITE/red) - remove
E5 pin 15 (RED/white) - E5 pin 26
E5 pin 16 (BLACK/yellow) - connect to ignitor for tach signal (you will need a tach adapter to get it to work with a 400 cluster)
E5 pin 17 (BLACK) - E5 pin 2
E5 pin 18 (WHITE) - E5 pin 8
E5 pin 19 (WHITE/green) - remove
E5 pin 20 (GREEN/red) - remove
E5 pin 22 (BLUE/yellow) - E5 pin 18
E5 pin 25 (RED/white) - remove
E5 pin 26 (WHITE/black) - E6 pin 22
E5 pin 27 (RED) - remove
E5 pin 28 (YELLOW/red) - remove
E6 pin 3 (BLUE/black) - E3 pin 8
E6 pin 22 (GREEN/red) - E6 pin 15
If your Aristo ECU is like mine & doesn't have a slot for the E7 connector, you don't have to remove these wires. Since the connector is left hanging loose it will not interfere with anything.
E7 pin 1 (YELLOW/black) - E5 pin 17
E7 pin 2 (BLUE/yellow) - remove
E7 pin 3 (VIOLET or Purple) - remove
E7 pin 4 (WHITE/black) - remove
E7 pin 11 (WHITE) - E5 pin 28
E7 pin 14 (BLACK/blue) - E5 pin 11
E7 pin 15 (RED/green) - remove
E7 pin 16 (RED/yellow) - remove
E7 pin 17 (BLUE/red) - remove
E7 pin 18 (GREEN/black) - remove
E7 pin 19 (BLACK/white) - remove
E7 pin 20 (YELLOW) - remove
E7 pin 21 (GREY) - remove
E7 pin 22 (LIGHT GREEN/red) - E5 pin 10
E7 pin 23 (BLUE/black) - E5 pin 21
E7 pin 24 (BLACK) - E5 pin 27
E7 pin 25 (YELLOW/green) - E5 pin 7
E7 pin 26 (PINK/blue) - E2 pin 26
Sorry, if it's confusing. Sometimes things make sense in my mind but they don't come out as coherent. I think there were 1 or 2 other wires I had to move to get the shift indicator & shift lock to work. I think they were in the grey junction block beside the ECU & next to the orange junction block. I can't remember for sure though. If someone does this and runs into a problem with them I can check to see what mine look like.
Connectors E2, E3, & E4 run from the engine to the ECU so they should all be in the correct place alreay (if your swap came with ECU & harness together). Connectors E5, E6, & E7 are from the vehicle body to the ECU so these need to be moved to match the new ECU. On my Aristo ECU there was no slot for the E7 connector so I listed those as "remove" as well.
If I say "remove" it's because it is either already in the correct location on the Aristo harness (in connector E2, E3, or E4) or you don't need this wire. You should remove it from the connector and tape it off. The list should read like this,
98 GS400 location (Wire Color) - Aristo location
So, you would move pin 2 on connector E5 on the GS400 harness (Red wire with Black stripe) to pin 16 on connector E5 for the Aristo ECU.
E5 pin 2 (RED/black) - E5 pin 16
E5 pin 3 (GREEN/black) - remove
E5 pin 4 (GREEN) - remove
E5 pin 7 (GREY/black) - remove
E5 pin 8 (GREY) - remove
E5 pin 10 (WHITE/red) - remove
E5 pin 15 (RED/white) - E5 pin 26
E5 pin 16 (BLACK/yellow) - connect to ignitor for tach signal (you will need a tach adapter to get it to work with a 400 cluster)
E5 pin 17 (BLACK) - E5 pin 2
E5 pin 18 (WHITE) - E5 pin 8
E5 pin 19 (WHITE/green) - remove
E5 pin 20 (GREEN/red) - remove
E5 pin 22 (BLUE/yellow) - E5 pin 18
E5 pin 25 (RED/white) - remove
E5 pin 26 (WHITE/black) - E6 pin 22
E5 pin 27 (RED) - remove
E5 pin 28 (YELLOW/red) - remove
E6 pin 3 (BLUE/black) - E3 pin 8
E6 pin 22 (GREEN/red) - E6 pin 15
If your Aristo ECU is like mine & doesn't have a slot for the E7 connector, you don't have to remove these wires. Since the connector is left hanging loose it will not interfere with anything.
E7 pin 1 (YELLOW/black) - E5 pin 17
E7 pin 2 (BLUE/yellow) - remove
E7 pin 3 (VIOLET or Purple) - remove
E7 pin 4 (WHITE/black) - remove
E7 pin 11 (WHITE) - E5 pin 28
E7 pin 14 (BLACK/blue) - E5 pin 11
E7 pin 15 (RED/green) - remove
E7 pin 16 (RED/yellow) - remove
E7 pin 17 (BLUE/red) - remove
E7 pin 18 (GREEN/black) - remove
E7 pin 19 (BLACK/white) - remove
E7 pin 20 (YELLOW) - remove
E7 pin 21 (GREY) - remove
E7 pin 22 (LIGHT GREEN/red) - E5 pin 10
E7 pin 23 (BLUE/black) - E5 pin 21
E7 pin 24 (BLACK) - E5 pin 27
E7 pin 25 (YELLOW/green) - E5 pin 7
E7 pin 26 (PINK/blue) - E2 pin 26
Sorry, if it's confusing. Sometimes things make sense in my mind but they don't come out as coherent. I think there were 1 or 2 other wires I had to move to get the shift indicator & shift lock to work. I think they were in the grey junction block beside the ECU & next to the orange junction block. I can't remember for sure though. If someone does this and runs into a problem with them I can check to see what mine look like.
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