DRL Defeat Question
04-14-02, 11:19 AM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
DRL Defeat Question
After an exhaustive search about DRLs I still haven't found an answer. How in the heck do you turn those annoying daytime running lights off without having that high beam indicater light on all the time in the dash. I'm a perfectionist and want it right! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
04-15-02, 06:24 PM
#4
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i know
i hate them on too. anyways, i have a contact the local lexus dealership, and i asked one of the tec's. they said, no 'easy' way around it.
1) live with the dash-light on.
2) spend time on disconnecting it, and making the computer think that it is connected properly. (even more trouble)
3) live as is, like me...
if u find a way, please let me know.
Kam
1) live with the dash-light on.
2) spend time on disconnecting it, and making the computer think that it is connected properly. (even more trouble)
3) live as is, like me...
if u find a way, please let me know.
Kam
04-15-02, 09:44 PM
#5
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
wwest, shftup:
I appreciate the info...let me know if you find anything out. It seems to me, using my little knowledge of electronics, that I need to either 1) get a bigger resistor? to basically allow very little or no current to pass to the bulbs, or 2) pull the resistor pack and find away to bypass the high beam indicator light when the headlights are off. There has to be someone out there that has figured this out by now!
I appreciate the info...let me know if you find anything out. It seems to me, using my little knowledge of electronics, that I need to either 1) get a bigger resistor? to basically allow very little or no current to pass to the bulbs, or 2) pull the resistor pack and find away to bypass the high beam indicator light when the headlights are off. There has to be someone out there that has figured this out by now!
04-16-02, 08:24 AM
#6
Lead Lap
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DRL safety
First, let me express my reluctance in advising anyone on how to disable DRLs since I sincerely feel they contribute some level of additional safety factor for all of us.
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
In this case I put that in balance with the fact that the Lexus DRL circuit will undoubtedly cause premature failure of the high beam bulbs, creating something of hazardous circumstance of itsself.
I would also like to state that these instructions only apply, for certain, to the MY2000 GS300.
Go to the relay/fuse block/panel mounted just forward of the battery and remove the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 2" , the fuse closest to the starter relay. Now fabricate and use a wire jumper to connect the low, load, side of this fuse socket to the low, load, side of the 30 Amp fuse labelled "DRL NO. 1", the third fuse "slot" from the starter relay. In both cases the low, load, side is the one toward the front of the car.
I used Radio Shack automotive blade type fuse taps, #270-1204, to bridge, connect, into the low side of the now unoccupied drl #2 position, and a modified fuse tap to connect, alongside the fuse itsself, to the low side of drl #1 fuse. This particular fuse tap is too thick to fit into the socket along with the fuse "prong".
You might want to check the current condition of your high beam bulbs when you do this and replace them if there appears to be a substantial level of "soot" on the interior of the glass encapsulation. At about 10k miles on my RX300 the glass encapsulation was actually showing signs of the glass melting just above the filament due to long periods of operation at sub-specification DRL voltages (less than 6 Volts).
Last edited by wwest; 04-16-02 at 01:30 PM.
04-16-02, 12:23 PM
#7
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
wwest: Thanx for the info...I'm thinking of attempting the procedure but unsure... As far as the soot goes...are you saying that the presence of the soot in combination with the now lower voltage caused the glass melting? And are you saying that the drl defeat bypass circuit will cause premature failure of the bulbs? I'm wondering how the dealer does it...I've seen posts where they charge a half hour of labor to disable it...how do they do it?
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04-16-02, 01:17 PM
#8
Lead Lap
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soot
It is my understanding that if halogen bulbs are operated at the specified voltage, 12 to 14 volts, then enough of the input "energy" is converted to light that local heating is not a problem.
At the DRL voltage of less than 6 volts much more of the energy goes into heat rather than light and that heat will eventually melt the glass encapsulation. The soot issue has something to do with "halogen gas regeneration cycle" which apparently also doesn't work all that well at these low DRL voltages.
So with the halogen high beam bulbs operating a lot of the time at DRL voltage levels the light output will degrade over time due to the continuing accumulation of soot inside the bulb which of course blocks the light output. I haven't actaully seen a bulb that failed due to the glass melting through but I strongly suspect it will happen evenually.
Disabling the DRL function as I have suggested should definitely extend the life of the high beam bulbs.
To clarify things a bit...
In DRL mode the two high beam bulbs and a voltage reducing resister are all operated in a series "string". I haven't measured the drop across the resister but you can be sure the bulbs are operating at less than battery voltage divided by 2.
At the DRL voltage of less than 6 volts much more of the energy goes into heat rather than light and that heat will eventually melt the glass encapsulation. The soot issue has something to do with "halogen gas regeneration cycle" which apparently also doesn't work all that well at these low DRL voltages.
So with the halogen high beam bulbs operating a lot of the time at DRL voltage levels the light output will degrade over time due to the continuing accumulation of soot inside the bulb which of course blocks the light output. I haven't actaully seen a bulb that failed due to the glass melting through but I strongly suspect it will happen evenually.
Disabling the DRL function as I have suggested should definitely extend the life of the high beam bulbs.
To clarify things a bit...
In DRL mode the two high beam bulbs and a voltage reducing resister are all operated in a series "string". I haven't measured the drop across the resister but you can be sure the bulbs are operating at less than battery voltage divided by 2.
04-16-02, 01:31 PM
#9
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the Resistor pack is 1.2 ohm
wwest, check your PM
Also, build a small delay circuit. the circuit will cut off the DRL light ,say 1/2 sec after it was turned on, that way, there will be no light on the dash. I am not sure if that would work, but for the rear 3rd brake light, the car only check for the light the monent you step on the brake, after that, as long as you still step on the brake, you can remove the brake light and it will not trigger the dash light. Give it a try, let the DRL turn on, then go unplug the Registor pack in the engine compartment, see if you see any dash light, if not, then the delay circuit idea for the brake light will work.
I can post the circuit here if you can verify that is the case
Anh
wwest, check your PM
Also, build a small delay circuit. the circuit will cut off the DRL light ,say 1/2 sec after it was turned on, that way, there will be no light on the dash. I am not sure if that would work, but for the rear 3rd brake light, the car only check for the light the monent you step on the brake, after that, as long as you still step on the brake, you can remove the brake light and it will not trigger the dash light. Give it a try, let the DRL turn on, then go unplug the Registor pack in the engine compartment, see if you see any dash light, if not, then the delay circuit idea for the brake light will work.
I can post the circuit here if you can verify that is the case
Anh
Last edited by BananaGS; 04-16-02 at 01:40 PM.
04-16-02, 05:11 PM
#10
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This is what I would do (thank god I do not have DRLS)
One, would get a 9005 upgrade harness (cant find them, PM, I have them)
encapsulate the 9005 bulb in a plastic cylinder, with air vents, you are now placing this harness behind the headlamps (not to be seen)
Now, get a relay that works from 9volts to 14 volts
Get the 9005 harness, buy another 9005 bulb, connect to relay, when real high beams come on, relay clicks on, real 9005 bulb lights up, otherwise old drls light up all taped up in black in engine (not to be seen)
The relay will pull power from the battery on its feed terminal so it will not trick the car with any real load (relays pull very little current)
But thats what I would do if I had the problem, simple, effective, easy.
One, would get a 9005 upgrade harness (cant find them, PM, I have them)
encapsulate the 9005 bulb in a plastic cylinder, with air vents, you are now placing this harness behind the headlamps (not to be seen)
Now, get a relay that works from 9volts to 14 volts
Get the 9005 harness, buy another 9005 bulb, connect to relay, when real high beams come on, relay clicks on, real 9005 bulb lights up, otherwise old drls light up all taped up in black in engine (not to be seen)
The relay will pull power from the battery on its feed terminal so it will not trick the car with any real load (relays pull very little current)
But thats what I would do if I had the problem, simple, effective, easy.
04-16-02, 07:09 PM
#11
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
drl
bananGS: Tried that...high beam indicator comes on whenever the resistor pack is unplugged. I'll think I'll give wwest's method a shot. Sounds like it should work..(electrician buddy agrees). hopefully I won't start an electrical fire..HEHE.
04-21-02, 10:47 AM
#12
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
DRL Defeated!
wwest: Thank-you once again...The operation was a success..the drls are gone! I owe you one. Hopefully my wiring will hold up under the tremendous g-forces associated with my driving. Now those ticket-happy city and chp cops will have to look a little harder to spot me.
Peace
Peace
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N3V3S (03-10-24)
04-21-02, 02:18 PM
#14
I have a 98 gs400 and my DRLs seem to be the headlights (low beam). As soon as I turn the key to the ON position these damn things come on. Anyone got any suggestions for me. By the way, there is NO DIFFERNCE in the dimness or brightness of the LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS from when they turn on when the key in in the ON position and when the headlights are on. Thankx in advance for any help.
