Originally Posted by BP_VVt-i

Upper control arms (to service the bad ball joints) $832.93 each side.

Lower ball joints, $243.44 each side.

Right rear wheel bearing/hub $900.92.

Originally Posted by BP_VVt-i

OK THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE HEADS UP!!! i would have destroyed my car if i started tinkering with that. well i def saw the DIY for the lower ball joints. but not too much on the upper control arms. Timgs300 if u live in Columbia, u thnk u could help me out since were not too far from each other. its rare to meet another driver in MD that has a Lexus and isn't afraid to mess with it. Plus it seems like u kno a lot more than i do.

And too IceCold. I'm sorry to hear that. but i'm glad i'm not the only one. dealerships suck. I need to get my tool game up so I can do everything on my car myself.

Originally Posted by 99Aristo

I just bought the $23.29 tie rod ends and they are made by Moog, a respectable vendor. A set of aftermarket control arms is the same price shipped as the adjustable aftermarket control arms so the choice seems obvious. The imken wheel bearing should get you along for many many years....kind of a bi%*h to install though. Hope this helps! SHould save you tons.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-UPP...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Out...=p4506.c0.m245

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Left-...=p4506.c0.m245
adjustable upper control arms
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPC-F...=p4506.c0.m245
wheel bearing---don't advise doing yourself
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus...4506.m20.l1116

Originally Posted by UDel

That sounds fishy and like a bunch of BS to have to have all that stuff needing replacement on a 2001 GS430 unless you have some heavy suspension mods with big rims, your car is lowered, and you drive your car really hard on bad roads. I am sure North Carolina roads are not as bad as say New York City roads to where stuff often needs replacing or fixing much sooner. I would tell them to stop and don't do anything and take it somewhere else and get a second opinion and if all the stuff really does need to be replaced order the stuff yourself at much lower prices and DIY what you can to save even more. It sounds like they were just looking for a bunch of things to replace and make money on. I can't tell you how many times a mechanic has said this and that is bad and needs to be replaced to where I said hold off and take it to somewhere else or check it my self and it is fine.

I just took my car to Autozone for a dead new battery I got there a few days ago, they immediately said it was probably my alternator. When the guy was going to test the alternator and my car would not start he noticed the red terminal was not tight and very loose from when the guy installed it(should have done it myself). After he tightened it my car started fine but the guy still did the alternator test and said I needed a new alternator right away. I said I never had any dimming issues and should not need a new alternator with less then 80K on the odometer and everything is stock but he insisted the alternator was about to die and could not charge the battery. I told him to hold off on the $205 alternator he wanted to sell me and left. I got it checked at 2 other places and they said the alternator was fine and there was no problem. Unless you are really close to your mechanic don't always trust them when they start giving you high bills and saying this and that needs replacing especially when the car runs and drives fine and is not even that old.

Originally Posted by BP_VVt-i

Thanks for all the links I will def get on these asap. i am def gonna do the DIY way except for that wheel bearing. Im pretty mechanically inclined but I dont thnk im that good. I dont wanna risk sumthing lyk that