BP_VVt-i

iTrader: (6)

OK I have a 1999 GS 300 and with age and given I drive in the rough city streets of Baltimore, MD I have racked up some suspension issues. I went to the dealership for an oil change, and of course they decided to add up about 3 grand in extra problems. This is the list they emailed me. Anyone have any suggestions on what I could do to fix these things myself? Or the easiest way to replace them.

Upper control arms (to service the bad ball joints) $832.93 each side.

Lower ball joints, $243.44 each side.

Right rear wheel bearing/hub $900.92.

DSM2GS400

I got upper control arms off ebay for $250 each brand new. Not genuine Lexus parts but I have been driving on them for a year without issue. Hope that helps.

5t341th

iTrader: (16)

u can easily do the ball joints yourself.
the lower ball joints are common and theres even a writeup on it

SoCal Cyco

iTrader: (20)

do not go to the STEALERSHIP dont you have another mechanic or possibly diy. that is entirely to much $$$$ for parts

esolo98

iTrader: (5)

the adjustable Upper Control Arms may be better for you if you are ever planning to switch to coilovers, and you can pick them up from a CL Vendor for way cheaper than the stealership

BP_VVt-i

iTrader: (6)

Do you have the link for that writeup? that wuld be of great assistance. And one other thing I have studied the joints and its seems like there is a bolt on the ends of the upper control arms. could i possibly just tighten that bolt?

BP_VVt-i

iTrader: (6)

and i do plan on upgrading to coilovers. with that being the case shuld i just go ahead and replace these things?

GS300ToM

iTrader: (32)

if you was planning on gettin UCA get the IKEYA for that price... its like 750 and you get 2..... just my 2cent and as for the ball joint, look at the sticky for DIY!!!!!!!!

BP_VVt-i

iTrader: (6)

Ok i saw the Sticky for the DIY about the ball joints. But i must admit you lost me on those acronyms. Still a bit of a noob here.

timgs300

iTrader: (22)

You cannot tighten the bolt . The joint fails inside the rubber boot. Unfortunately, the upper control arm/ball joint are one unit (OEM). I recently took apart my whole front suspension to install Daizen control arm bushings. You can DIY with hand tools, a torque wrench, and loaner tool from Advance Auto Parts. The rear bearing would require a press unless you bought the hub and bearing assy - $85 vs. $285. I'm in Columbia, roads here are ok. I've driven in Baltimore, it is rough!

ICECOLD

You know what. I feel your pain. I did the same thing yesterday (oil change and inspection) and this is the quote they email me:


REPLACE N0.2 STRUT RODS Fail $570.00 X
Replace automatic transmission mount Fail $197.00 X
Replace left lower ball joint Fail $200.00 X
Replace right lower ball joint Fail $200.00 X
Perform alignment Fail $149.95 X


I had a bad day all the way around yesterday (My car and My Job). I wasn't even having problems with my car that I thought. I spoke too fast and I told them go ahead. Oh well, I feel like a jackass now, since I know that I could have had it done cheaper.

BP_VVt-i

iTrader: (6)

OK THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE HEADS UP!!! i would have destroyed my car if i started tinkering with that. well i def saw the DIY for the lower ball joints. but not too much on the upper control arms. Timgs300 if u live in Columbia, u thnk u could help me out since were not too far from each other. its rare to meet another driver in MD that has a Lexus and isn't afraid to mess with it. Plus it seems like u kno a lot more than i do.

And too IceCold. I'm sorry to hear that. but i'm glad i'm not the only one. dealerships suck. I need to get my tool game up so I can do everything on my car myself.

joshoowa

iTrader: (1)

Upper ball joints rarely would go out and the only way they could test it would be to remove it from the A-arm and remove it from your car. Thats a lot of work to just test it.

I'm at 118k miles had some metal clunk noises for the longest. In fear of my life I replaced all the bushings with Daizen bushings, replaced lower ball joint and outer tie rod. I kept the upper ball joint because it still moved freely and had virtually no sign of wear.

I did the install by myself so it's not difficult just very time consuming.

99Aristo

iTrader: (19)

I just bought the $23.29 tie rod ends and they are made by Moog, a respectable vendor. A set of aftermarket control arms is the same price shipped as the adjustable aftermarket control arms so the choice seems obvious. The imken wheel bearing should get you along for many many years....kind of a bi%*h to install though. Hope this helps! SHould save you tons.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-UPP...Q5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Out...=p4506.c0.m245

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Left-...=p4506.c0.m245
adjustable upper control arms
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SPC-F...=p4506.c0.m245
wheel bearing---don't advise doing yourself
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus...4506.m20.l1116

UDel

That sounds fishy and like a bunch of BS to have to have all that stuff needing replacement on a 2001 GS430 unless you have some heavy suspension mods with big rims, your car is lowered, and you drive your car really hard on bad roads. I am sure North Carolina roads are not as bad as say New York City roads to where stuff often needs replacing or fixing much sooner. I would tell them to stop and don't do anything and take it somewhere else and get a second opinion and if all the stuff really does need to be replaced order the stuff yourself at much lower prices and DIY what you can to save even more. It sounds like they were just looking for a bunch of things to replace and make money on. I can't tell you how many times a mechanic has said this and that is bad and needs to be replaced to where I said hold off and take it to somewhere else or check it my self and it is fine.

I just took my car to Autozone for a dead new battery I got there a few days ago, they immediately said it was probably my alternator. When the guy was going to test the alternator and my car would not start he noticed the red terminal was not tight and very loose from when the guy installed it(should have done it myself). After he tightened it my car started fine but the guy still did the alternator test and said I needed a new alternator right away. I said I never had any dimming issues and should not need a new alternator with less then 80K on the odometer and everything is stock but he insisted the alternator was about to die and could not charge the battery. I told him to hold off on the $205 alternator he wanted to sell me and left. I got it checked at 2 other places and they said the alternator was fine and there was no problem. Unless you are really close to your mechanic don't always trust them when they start giving you high bills and saying this and that needs replacing especially when the car runs and drives fine and is not even that old.