speedaddic

iTrader: (10)

i do 80lbs here...for almost all my cars

VNN326

iTrader: (21)

90 for me. just incase. i havent broke a stud yet.

[ant]

i am going to say this though- how many of you are on the stock Lexus lugs? because i noticed that the Lexus lugs are the ones with a special washer on them, and those ****ers tighten up real tight, tighter than normal conical nuts. My old man's 4wd has them on it too (Mitsubishi thing). That washer seems to let them bite in a bit better and not loosen as easily from what i have noticed.

whereas on the other hand, i torqued my Work 19s and work nuts to 76 and it just did feel quite loose. like after a few days driving i put the wrench on and get them to tighten up a bit, so it seemed to me they'd loosened off a bit. so i do mine to like 80-82 or so? but i am unsure how accurate my torque wrench is.

otherwise, i have a breaker bar, and i just put them on as tight as i can by hand with that and i never ever had any issue with any other car changing multiple wheels etc etc on all different setups. ive only had a torque wrench recently since i got the Lexus. I think my arm tightening is around the 80 as well when i sort of tested it with the wrench..

kit cat

iTrader: (6)

I hope you're kidding or use that bar thing so it won't get over torqued.

I know it's easier but I cannot stand some ****tards at tire shops that use air tools for wheels on my car when I specifically tell them not to even with that bar.

chiamx

I always stick to 80lbs all around evenly for all my cars.

exodus_2

iTrader: (15)

85 since i don't have my stock rims and lug nuts on. just be on safe side.

vwynn

iTrader: (4)

why would i be kidding?

hah jk yes im jk.

i just use my torque bar or watever... set at 76 lbs.

SoCalSC4

For street applications, you have nothing to gain by over-torquing the lug nuts. You do however
1) stretch the studs - doing this repeatedly can yield them, possibly causing stud failure long-term
2) Make the wheels difficult to remove
3) Contribute to warping the brake rotors

I've always torqued mine to 76 ft/lbs. on both my Lexus and my MR2. The Toyota/Lexus engineers are a smart bunch; I am an expert in other areas but not in metallurgy, so why would I want to second-guess this?

I would not recommend going higher than 80 ft/lbs.

raytseng

only tip I have to offer that hasn't already been said, is if you have wheel locks, put the wheellock lug on last (take it off first), so it has the least chance of binding.
This is actually in the wheel lock instructions.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

It fascinates me how people will do something the manufacturer doesn't recommend. All Toyotas except the Landcruiser (and related LX series) have studs rated for 76 ft-lbs. All the overtightening only increases the chance you'll break a stud. Tighter means you're closer to the elastic limit of the metal. If you put aftermarket studs in the hubs, you should use the torque recommended by the stud manufacturer.

Maybe you guys over-torquing should suggest to the mechanic installing the engines on the next aircraft you're flying that he should ignore the manufacturer's torque and make it just a little tighter for "safety." Make sense?

pizdets17

iTrader: (4)

76 it is. I did 78 just because its on a $29 torque wrench so who knows how accurate it is.

dxb_8788

why you care just tight it till it stop moving its called your muscles tourqe
that what i do always