CurlyG

Update: The real problem was recently found, and the solution is somewhat easy. Scroll to down to Post# 85 below.

One of these days, I'm going to measure the OD of that shaft, and design and machine a bracket that holds a roller bearing, and mounts to the bracket above. I'll probably have to use a self aligning bearing. When I get the time...


Bearing is caring!

CurlyG

After about 6 months of driving with the zip tie hanger fix, I was concerned that I may have over tightened the zip ties, contributing to the "heavy steering" my 2GS suffer from. Here is what I found:
I checked the zip ties today, and found that they are still tight; however they added no detectable steering drag. I confirmed by jacking up the front end (wheels off the ground) and steering the wheel left/right with the engine off and on, and then cutting the zip ties and steering the wheel back and forth. I could not tell any difference between the smoothness or effort of steering the wheel with the zip ties on or off.
With the zip ties off, I can hear and feel "looseness" in the steering shaft when I wiggle the steering wheel left/right. With the zip ties installed, the audible and physical steering rattle is gone.
I was going to upgrade the zip tie hanger fix to a ball bearing and support plate, but now I believe the bearing support will not add much over the simple zip tie hanger.
The steering noise sounds like it is coming from above the lower u-joint, and somewhere up in the steering column. Although I'm not sure if I'll ever dive down that rabbit hole. Last time I looked, you have to buy the entire steering assembly, which means also re-keying the ignition (another rabbit hole).

DMPesso

If you want to fix loose steering it’s mostly the steering rack bushings, tie rods, alignment and tires. Worn tires also make the steering feel heavier in my experience with the GS. Biggest difference for the play in the steering wheel for me was the rack bushings though.

CurlyG

This is definitely the steering column, as I mentioned the noise/play is coming from the steering column, and the zip tie hanger installation stopped the noise/play. I have no other noise/play/vibration from the front end. I have all new suspension joints in the front end, including the 6 ball joints (3 per side), and the front end is tight. I also adjusted the preload on the steering rack, and installed PU rack bushings.

Yes, the tires are shot. The coilovers lowered the car beyond what the factory suspension could adjust, and I drove it with front and rear toe and excessive camber, until I got my Figs suspension parts. Yes, the alignment shops, for some insane reason, could not adjust front toe to zero. Anyway, now the suspension is dialed, and I need new tires. Hopefully, fresh tire tread will lighten up the steering.

DMPesso

oh I didn’t fully read the thread. But for SURE new tires lighten up the steering a lot if your riding on low tread. Made a huge difference for me

DMPesso

not to revive an old thread but I notice over rough patches the steering gets twitchy so I am pretty sure I have this problem. Does replacing this part 45260-30080 solve the problem like the zip tie method?

skysecond

An unrelated quesion:
How much did you pay? What was odo by then? I just bought my 2002 on Tuesday. There is some work but still loving it.

DMPesso

He posted that in 2009. I doubt he’s still around lol

skysecond

I totally missed that lol!

CurlyG

I found the cause of the loose steering shaft, and the solution is somewhat easy!
First, look up at Sakataj’s photos in his post. You can see the bearing retainer clip, which has jumped out of its groove on the steering shaft, and slid down. Gravity and vibration have then caused the steering shaft bearing to slide out its seat in the steering column housing. With the bearing out of place, the steering shaft is allowed to move around, and vibrate!


I found this out when I completely remove my steering column, in my dire quest to solve front end shakes from 60-75 MPH. Here’s what I found:

1. The bearing retaining clip was disengaged, and the steering shaft bearing has moved out of the steering column housing as shown below:
   
   
   
   
2. The upper u-joint was partially seized. After removing this section, I found that the lower u-joint yoke rotated freely and smoothly, while the adjacent yoke was notchy or bumpy when rotated. The image below shows which U-Joint was the troublemaker:

Here’s how I solved each problem:

• Steering Bearing/Clip: Instead of re-installing the problematic, round-wire retaining clip which jump out with ease, I instead installed 2 flat C-clips from a kit of assorted C-clip sizes. I didn’t take any photos of the installed clips, but installing just 1 was too loose, and 2 C-clips stacked together nicely, to take up the width of the groove. They also ended up being 2 different diameters. It ended up being a little jenky, but much more reliable than the OEM retainer clip.
• There are many ways to keep the OEM retainer clip in-place, such as wrapping a thin wire around the 2 protruding legs of the clip so the clip cannot open to release from the groove, potting the clip with epoxy, tack welding the clip to the shaft, spec’ing a better clip from McMaster Carr, etc.

Result: Now the steering shaft is fully supported, and no longer rattles.

• Upper U-joint Yoke Arm: Note: These U-joints are staked, and are therefore not serviceable by anyone but the brave and mechanically inclined. A mechanically talented friend of mine removed the troubled yoke by prying it open with a large flat screwdriver, and pulling it off of the cross shaft. During this operation, most of the needle bearing fell onto the workbench. He found that the OEM grease had dried up into little hard *****, which is why this yoke was rough and notchy when rotated. He cleaned the old hard grease off the cross and yoke seats, and the needle bearings, applied fresh moly grease, and reassembled the yoke onto the cross. He then had to tune the compression of the yoke on the cross: too little compression, and the joint moved freely but could disengage (fall apart). Too much compression, and the joint became difficult to rotate.

Result: Once the entire steering column was reassembled, except for the steering wheel and the connection to the rack, I grabbed the small spline shaft that the steering wheel mounts to, and I could easily rotate the entire steering shaft assembly using only my thumb and index finger, as shown in the photo below:



Note: Even though I put match marks on all of the steering shaft connections before removing/separating them, and reinstalled the components at these matchmarks, my steering wheel did not go back on clocked correctly. Worse, it was off by about 1.5 rotations! I had to iteratively re-center the steering wheel, which eventually worked out fine.

Other Observations:

The soul crushing steering wheel vibration between 60-75 mph is now gone. However, I did several other service mods, in addition to what I mentioned above, including:

• Adjustment of the rack tensioner, increasing the preload to about 7 o'clock, from 6 o'clock, referencing my original vertical match mark at the bottom of nut which started at 6 o'clock.
  • This position was very close to the max-tightening position, where the nut can no longer be turned, which is also probably where the pre-load spring is fully collapsed (undesirable).
  • At this new position:
    • There is zero backlash in the steering, when the car is on jack stands, and the steering wheel is turned back/forth, wheels hanging. The slightest turn of the steering wheel, or joggle back and forth, results in visible spindle/wheel rotation.
    • There is very little steering wheel return while turning: I have to manually turn the steering wheel back to center through a turn. Because of this, I will relax the tension by turning the nut counter clockwise to about 6:30 o-clock.
• Reassembly of the drive shaft halves about 170 deg from where they were previously (I was going for the Tx yoke up and Diff yoke down; they were both up, or matched in rotation, before, from “previous work”).
  • Some experts believed my highway speed steering wheel vibration was caused by my driveshaft being out of balance. Re-clocking of the front to rear sections may have resulted in a balanced arrangement.
• Fabricated and installed new custom molded Shore 80 PU Rear Subframe Bushings
• The 24 year old OEM rear subframe bushings were dry rotted, cracked, and no good.
• SuperPro PU rear diff bushings (to complement, or complete the SuperPro PU front bushings installed last year)

I now have a problem when I turn the steering wheel while stopped, or while backing up, where I hear and feel a loud pop from the front end. The lower ball joints are fairly new, and the upper ball joints are high end BJ's that Figgs installed on their UCA's. The inner and outer steering rods are also fairly new, as are the stabilizer bar end links. All bolts are torqued to OEM specs.
I don't hear the pop while driving over speed bumps or entering/exiting sharp driveways, fast nor slow, steering wheel turned or centered. I suspect it's the front brakes?