Having a weak moment with my car
12-19-09, 04:26 PM
#16
Driver
Don't buy a new one from them. First of all it should be covered under the federal emissions mandatory warranty. If they really try to beat around the bush, then just drop in a used one from a wrecking yard. You can usually pick those up from them for like $150 range or so with the cats. 
Jeff you should also lay off dealerships, alot of people dont have your knowledge. Demonizing delaerships in general because you had a bad experience or dont want to pay the coin is silly. Its like saying all restaurants are crap because Ruth Chris charges $80.00 for a steak.
Last edited by lexus ASM; 12-19-09 at 04:28 PM. Reason: added comment
12-19-09, 08:26 PM
#19
We need to start at the origin, lets find out what the code is first. I dont let nurses diagnose me in the waiting room, I wait for the doctor. And if it is a CAT code then we can offer solutions. All cat codes are thrown by B1S2 and B2S2, both of those can be simulated with an 02 simulator.
Jeff you should also lay off dealerships, alot of people dont have your knowledge. Demonizing delaerships in general because you had a bad experience or dont want to pay the coin is silly. Its like saying all restaurants are crap because Ruth Chris charges $80.00 for a steak.
Jeff you should also lay off dealerships, alot of people dont have your knowledge. Demonizing delaerships in general because you had a bad experience or dont want to pay the coin is silly. Its like saying all restaurants are crap because Ruth Chris charges $80.00 for a steak.
I just didn't suggest going to a dealership because he said he was a college student that didn't have a ton of extra funds. If someone has the extra money, then I won't waste my time telling them because they probably don't care to do it themselves. Fixing a door lock actuator should only take a novice DIY'er around 2 hours per door and that's if they're working slow. A DIY'er can fix the door lock actuator for $2, on the other hand taking it to the dealer to replace it will cost close to $300 per door including labor. Someone else might see it as a waste of their 2 hours of their own time where they could make that kind of money back in less time in the office.
It sounds like you work at a Lexus dealership, so you should be pretty familiar with the pricing. What his buddy at the dealership listed...tell me that won't cost this guy at least $2000-2500 if done at the dealership including parts and labor. That whole list is something that he can fix for $200-300 or so if he spends a day working on the car. If he's not so good with the car then maybe get some of his more car saavy friends to help out. Then buy everyone beer and food afterwards for helping out. I know most college students don't have $2k+ to drop at will when in school. I'm kind of the rare exception, so I won't say anything about that
12-20-09, 06:42 AM
#20
Michael sorry to hear you are having issues. They way I see it you have already replaced many of the common problems. With the help of this board you should be able to get this repaired cheaper than your estimates from the dealer.
I think it will be a pain to sell, and re-buy, inheriting another set of issues. Unless you are totally digging another car. In this economy cars are not going for what they used to. You wont get close to what you have invested, but in theory you should be able to pick up something up cheaper too.
IN the end though its up to you. Keep us posted...
I think it will be a pain to sell, and re-buy, inheriting another set of issues. Unless you are totally digging another car. In this economy cars are not going for what they used to. You wont get close to what you have invested, but in theory you should be able to pick up something up cheaper too.
IN the end though its up to you. Keep us posted...
12-20-09, 09:46 AM
#21
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I don't think I've seen a pure stock 2GS (never been lowered) have any ball joint issues....correct me if Im wrong.
As for the exhaust manifold....isn't that the headers?
Take it to autozone for a scan using OBDII reader....it maybe the O2 sensor on the headers.
Yah...and what does a "underperforming" exhaust manifold mean? I've never heard anyone say that in my life!!!
Personally...I think that's a bunch of BS.Get a second opinion from another reputable shop.
12-20-09, 11:13 AM
#22
A definition of the problem, and an aftermarket bushing fix:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...and-facts.html
This is what I'm doing, I've already bought the new arms and will get them on soon....OEM replacements with the updated design:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sus...ed-thread.html
12-20-09, 11:22 AM
#23
Ball joints fail because the car is lowered.
I don't think I've seen a pure stock 2GS (never been lowered) have any ball joint issues....correct me if Im wrong.
As for the exhaust manifold....isn't that the headers?
Take it to autozone for a scan using OBDII reader....it maybe the O2 sensor on the headers.
Yah...and what does a "underperforming" exhaust manifold mean? I've never heard anyone say that in my life!!! Personally...I think that's a bunch of BS.
Get a second opinion from another reputable shop.
I don't think I've seen a pure stock 2GS (never been lowered) have any ball joint issues....correct me if Im wrong.
As for the exhaust manifold....isn't that the headers?
Take it to autozone for a scan using OBDII reader....it maybe the O2 sensor on the headers.
Yah...and what does a "underperforming" exhaust manifold mean? I've never heard anyone say that in my life!!!
Personally...I think that's a bunch of BS.Get a second opinion from another reputable shop.
I am going to continue to investigate these codes...I'll see what comes up. On my R.O. he put "needs catalytic converter" in which case I am about 200 miles under this federal warranty.
Appreciate all of the advice and moral support
12-20-09, 11:35 AM
#24
The car was stock for the first 66K miles of it's life so I have no idea why the ball joints wore out so quickly. A few months into owning the car it was creaking and popping quite a bit so I decided to replace everything when I had the car lowered.
I am going to continue to investigate these codes...I'll see what comes up. On my R.O. he put "needs catalytic converter" in which case I am about 200 miles under this federal warranty.
Appreciate all of the advice and moral support
I am going to continue to investigate these codes...I'll see what comes up. On my R.O. he put "needs catalytic converter" in which case I am about 200 miles under this federal warranty.
Appreciate all of the advice and moral support
12-20-09, 04:16 PM
#25
micheal i have some sensor(s) that when it gets wet my car acts crazy till it dries out a few days l8r....like passenger windows wont roll down,if they do they wont come back up, cluster wont light up immediately, dome light doesnt work, so i hear u on the frustration, but moment mine dries out they work (i dont get any CEL's but sometimes my seatbelt light comes on when im wearing it while this happens) if you sell her let me know though....i might snag your interior and swap it to mine and resell :P i do hope u get this fixed though brother as you truthfully have a tastefully and beautiful modded car. one i have had the chance to personally see
jeff did we just stumble on a part you dont have a spare of?
jeff did we just stumble on a part you dont have a spare of?
12-22-09, 07:37 AM
#26
Driver
micheal i have some sensor(s) that when it gets wet my car acts crazy till it dries out a few days l8r....like passenger windows wont roll down,if they do they wont come back up, cluster wont light up immediately, dome light doesnt work, so i hear u on the frustration, but moment mine dries out they work (i dont get any CEL's but sometimes my seatbelt light comes on when im wearing it while this happens) if you sell her let me know though....
12-22-09, 07:40 AM
#27
Driver
I have my own reasons for not wanting to goto a dealership, but that was not the case here for what I suggested to MPLexus301.
I just didn't suggest going to a dealership because he said he was a college student that didn't have a ton of extra funds. If someone has the extra money, then I won't waste my time telling them because they probably don't care to do it themselves. Fixing a door lock actuator should only take a novice DIY'er around 2 hours per door and that's if they're working slow. A DIY'er can fix the door lock actuator for $2, on the other hand taking it to the dealer to replace it will cost close to $300 per door including labor. Someone else might see it as a waste of their 2 hours of their own time where they could make that kind of money back in less time in the office.
It sounds like you work at a Lexus dealership, so you should be pretty familiar with the pricing. What his buddy at the dealership listed...tell me that won't cost this guy at least $2000-2500 if done at the dealership including parts and labor. That whole list is something that he can fix for $200-300 or so if he spends a day working on the car. If he's not so good with the car then maybe get some of his more car saavy friends to help out. Then buy everyone beer and food afterwards for helping out. I know most college students don't have $2k+ to drop at will when in school. I'm kind of the rare exception, so I won't say anything about that
I just didn't suggest going to a dealership because he said he was a college student that didn't have a ton of extra funds. If someone has the extra money, then I won't waste my time telling them because they probably don't care to do it themselves. Fixing a door lock actuator should only take a novice DIY'er around 2 hours per door and that's if they're working slow. A DIY'er can fix the door lock actuator for $2, on the other hand taking it to the dealer to replace it will cost close to $300 per door including labor. Someone else might see it as a waste of their 2 hours of their own time where they could make that kind of money back in less time in the office.
It sounds like you work at a Lexus dealership, so you should be pretty familiar with the pricing. What his buddy at the dealership listed...tell me that won't cost this guy at least $2000-2500 if done at the dealership including parts and labor. That whole list is something that he can fix for $200-300 or so if he spends a day working on the car. If he's not so good with the car then maybe get some of his more car saavy friends to help out. Then buy everyone beer and food afterwards for helping out. I know most college students don't have $2k+ to drop at will when in school. I'm kind of the rare exception, so I won't say anything about that
12-22-09, 10:49 AM
#28
My simple response is that its a lexus, they are expensive, and parts dont get cheaper as they get older. I do see what your saying but since the OP cant even post the code, I would say that him repairing it is unlikely and better left to someone with qualification and experience.
micheal is fairly mechanically inclined but even the better half of us wouldnt wanna change and i dont recall him saying he couldnt post the code. i could change this but i would let someone else do it....im tired of being a grease monkey
12-22-09, 11:43 AM
#29
Exactly, it's just down to the cost/return ratio comparison. Spend 1-2 hours and $2 to fix a door lock actuator. Or just drop it off at shop or dealer to let them mess with it for 2hours and pay $250-300. Then use those 2 hours to do something else more productive. I'm still at the point of doing stuff myself because I'm still young and am not making the big bucks....yet lol. I think maybe in 10-15 years I won't be so willing to fix stuff myself. Original poster said he was in college, so that's why I suggested for him to DIY.
12-22-09, 03:05 PM
#30
Driver
Start by having the people who installed the windshield reseal it... That shouldnt be something you need to pay for.