GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Door speaker replacement?

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Old 03-08-10 | 01:13 AM
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Default Door speaker replacement?

OK, I have searched and searched, and didn't get a real definitive answer for my simple question.... can I replace the front door speakers (drivers) in my 02 GS430 with nav/ML whilst retaining the stock ML enclosure? ie... is there a drop-in driver that will bolt into the stock enclosure with minimal hassle? I'm sure I can handle the wire/harness issue. Thanks!

Brian
02 GS 430, Black Onyx, NAV/ML, 17's

Last edited by bmackinnon; 03-08-10 at 01:25 AM.
Old 03-08-10 | 03:41 AM
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First, props to you, sir, for using "whilst". Fantastic.

Second, yup. The stock size is small, though -- someone here will know (4-1/2"?). Pull your door out, and remove the speaker "box" (looks like a mini subwoofer in a small plastic box in the shape of a state). Anyway, trace that state shape onto a piece of 1/4 - 1/2" MDF and cut it out. Then, cut a hole in the board to fit whatever size speaker you want. Mount 'em together, and stick 'em in the door.

I know you said no hassle, but this takes like an hour and you can mount up way better speakers.
Old 03-08-10 | 05:52 AM
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Stock speaker size is 4". You can put different speakers into the enclosure, however there aren't many choices of 4" speakers. The biggest problem for you is if the ML amp will power the speakers that you install, the way that the ML system is made is that the speakers have a specific ohm rating, you need to verify with other ML system owners if they have been successful wig aftermarket speakers and the ML amp. Above poster said it correctly, replace the enclosure with your own panel and you can easily use 6.5" speakers that are more readily available.
Old 03-08-10 | 07:31 AM
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stock ML size for front doors is 6.5". Rears are 4". gotcha Vlad!

As for using the stock plastic baffle with aftermarket 6.5" driver - will rattle like a cow bell, even at low volume. I had that setup for 2 weeks untill my focals came in and then went for the properly cut/installed MDF baffles. BTW, there are numerous threads on this, how did you search and not found anything.
Old 03-08-10 | 10:05 AM
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Lol yea guess u finally got me.
Old 03-08-10 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankdorn
First, props to you, sir, for using "whilst". Fantastic.


Originally Posted by ALeX300
stock ML size for front doors is 6.5". Rears are 4". gotcha Vlad!

As for using the stock plastic baffle with aftermarket 6.5" driver - will rattle like a cow bell, even at low volume. I had that setup for 2 weeks untill my focals came in and then went for the properly cut/installed MDF baffles. BTW, there are numerous threads on this, how did you search and not found anything.
Yes, I saw a thread where someone (you, perhaps?) mentioned poor results with aftermarket drivers in the stock enclosure. Any speculation for the cause of the problem? Was there possibly interference/physical contact between the speaker and the box? I'm having a hard time figuring out why there would be excessive rattling from a simple driver change? Thus the point of my question regarding 'drop-in' replacement. Any comments welcome! Thanks folks!
Old 03-08-10 | 12:58 PM
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I tried using the stock plastic baffles with Infinity 6.1 sets for 2 weeks. even on 'hi-pass' plastic rattled. Tried a little of weatherstripping and some dynamat, helped a little but when turned up still had that 'clink,clink' on bass notes. So during that time i've had made the MDF baffles since i knew Focals k2p drivers were even bigger and heavier than Infinity's.

with k2p installed i had zero baffle rattles but then realized that woofer was hitting the doorpanel...but thats another story.


Here are some helpful threads --

speaker install

Another quality install, almost mirrors mine

Sound deadening

By far the best install i've seen with details

some cheap and simple ideas for sub mount, if you decide to dump ML

another idea for sub

factory radio removal, same if you have stock Nav

and the rarest rear sub removal

And this is only .01% of whats on these forums, just gotta find em.

Last edited by ALeX300; 03-08-10 at 02:03 PM. Reason: more links
Old 03-08-10 | 04:19 PM
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The aftermarket speaker should theoretically have more output, especially on the low end; which will cause rattling and resonance issues with the stock enclosure. Also, many aftermarket speakers may not like the small enclosure, therefore reducing midbass output.

I'm in the process of putting oversized 6.5's in my doors right now using MDF panels; just wanted to note that 3/4" MDF seems to cause problems with clearing the door panel by the front of the door where the stock enclosure gets more flush with the door. 3/4" with another 3/4" ring definitely doesn't work, couldn't get close to fitting the door panel back on.

1/2" seems to fit fine in initial testing, It looks like I can get by with just a 1/2" ring behind the speaker to gain mounting depth and haven't attached that yet. Just picked up the longer bolts to attach the wood to the stock holes so I'll test fit a little more definitely tonight before I finish it and know for sure but it looks like this combo will work fine.

Also, if you're putting any kind of power to them, you'll want to do some sound deadening in the doors. Just got my order from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com, extremely fast shipping and looks to be a good product, I'm impressed.
Old 03-09-10 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ALeX300
stock ML size for front doors is 6.5". Rears are 4". gotcha Vlad!

As for using the stock plastic baffle with aftermarket 6.5" driver - will rattle like a cow bell, even at low volume. I had that setup for 2 weeks untill my focals came in and then went for the properly cut/installed MDF baffles. BTW, there are numerous threads on this, how did you search and not found anything.
Originally Posted by Kyle Harty
The aftermarket speaker should theoretically have more output, especially on the low end; which will cause rattling and resonance issues with the stock enclosure. Also, many aftermarket speakers may not like the small enclosure, therefore reducing midbass output.

I'm in the process of putting oversized 6.5's in my doors right now using MDF panels; just wanted to note that 3/4" MDF seems to cause problems with clearing the door panel by the front of the door where the stock enclosure gets more flush with the door. 3/4" with another 3/4" ring definitely doesn't work, couldn't get close to fitting the door panel back on.

1/2" seems to fit fine in initial testing, It looks like I can get by with just a 1/2" ring behind the speaker to gain mounting depth and haven't attached that yet. Just picked up the longer bolts to attach the wood to the stock holes so I'll test fit a little more definitely tonight before I finish it and know for sure but it looks like this combo will work fine.

Also, if you're putting any kind of power to them, you'll want to do some sound deadening in the doors. Just got my order from www.sounddeadenershowdown.com, extremely fast shipping and looks to be a good product, I'm impressed.
Not doubting, but can someone confirm the size of the stock ML (with nav, if it matters) front speakers as there seems to be some conflicting info in the threads I've found... well, maybe not conflicting, but just not real clear.

I'm wanting a REPLACEMENT speaker, not an upgrade, per se.... will use the stock amp/wiring so I think it's important for the specs of the replacement speaker to match the originals as closely as possible.... perhaps someone knows/can provide those specs? Most importantly, I would think, the ohm load of the stock fronts? Better yet, recommend a replacement that will provide similar performance of the original? Also, I do understand that I may need to fab up a mdf board to mount (but would rather not if at all possible). Thanks fella's... this is helping alot.
Old 03-09-10 | 07:46 PM
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cant find a pic of my old kappaPerfects set up in stock baffles but they were 6.5"

Hmm, so all you want is replace ML front door speakers for something that would work with stock ML amp and unit?

if i recall correctly - stock ML speakers are 8ohm 40 watt? i'm gonna google it just to make sure. or some1 confirm/correct me...

found some info

Last edited by ALeX300; 03-09-10 at 07:52 PM. Reason: more info
Old 03-09-10 | 08:08 PM
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IF you decide to drop aftermarket drivers and IF in fact theyre 8ohm load then

6" - 6 1/2" drivers
or
best 6.5" driver

But most of them are soo friggin huge - mounting is near 3" or more...which will be a pain to fit in stock plastic ML baffle.
Old 03-09-10 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ALeX300
Hmm, so all you want is replace ML front door speakers for something that would work with stock ML amp and unit?

if i recall correctly - stock ML speakers are 8ohm 40 watt? i'm gonna google it just to make sure. or some1 confirm/correct me...

found some info
Exactly! One of the fronts is blown/distorting at high volume.... this is great info! Thank you for your research! If anyone else wants to chime in, the more info the better! Mucho Gracias!
Old 03-10-10 | 03:47 PM
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I just put in pioneer 6" speakers in the front, I can get the exact part number later (TS-A1673R?) sounds TERRIBLE!!! Do not underestimate the stock speakers, they are actually good drivers. Sound deadned the doors, and sealed all the holes, but I did not put in crossovers, I will do that in a few weeks, but I don't think it will help much.

Don't worry, it's easy to change the speakers, I had the doors off 3 times in one day, no problem.
Old 03-10-10 | 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker_720
I just put in pioneer 6" speakers in the front, I can get the exact part number later (TS-A1673R?) sounds TERRIBLE!!! Do not underestimate the stock speakers, they are actually good drivers. Sound deadned the doors, and sealed all the holes, but I did not put in crossovers, I will do that in a few weeks, but I don't think it will help much.

Don't worry, it's easy to change the speakers, I had the doors off 3 times in one day, no problem.
Yea the stockers sound great, IMO, but at $300+ each from the dealer, there's got to be a compatible replacement driver that's cheaper
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