TPS adjustment?
05-15-10, 04:53 PM
#4
Just wanted to update it, I adjusted it by hooking up a laptop to the OBDII port and running ScanMaster software. It is a pain in the butt, because in order to get to the adjust screws you need to remove the throttle body (while keeping the TPS plugged in so that ECU can read its data). It was off by 2% - I replaced it two years ago, but never properly adjusted it.
05-15-10, 05:09 PM
#5
Och, how long does it take you to adjust it? My friends throttle is off. Whenever he let go the gas the car pull back which is different than mine as smooth as only pull back alittle.
05-15-10, 05:19 PM
#6
Well, lets put it this way, the adjustment itself takes 2 minutes. But to get to the adjustment, you need to take off your whole intake and take off the throttle body. For me its a 30 minute job, but for someone inexperienced, its gonna take an hour or even more.
If you're suspecting your friends throttle position sensor to be faulty, invest into one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
This is what I bought. It is less than $20 shipped, and using this cable you can hook up a laptop to your car and read sensor data. The software I used is ScanMaster ELF 1.7 (its an older version, i believe version 2.2 or 2.1 is out now), it costs $75, but the cable comes with some free software that you can use.
You will need a laptop running windows XP. These diagnostic programs don't like Vista/7, at least I didn't have much luck.
The TPS sensor data should be between 14.4 and 16%, when the ignition is ON (but the car isn't running). When the car is running it should be between 10 and 14%.
If you're suspecting your friends throttle position sensor to be faulty, invest into one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
This is what I bought. It is less than $20 shipped, and using this cable you can hook up a laptop to your car and read sensor data. The software I used is ScanMaster ELF 1.7 (its an older version, i believe version 2.2 or 2.1 is out now), it costs $75, but the cable comes with some free software that you can use.
You will need a laptop running windows XP. These diagnostic programs don't like Vista/7, at least I didn't have much luck.
The TPS sensor data should be between 14.4 and 16%, when the ignition is ON (but the car isn't running). When the car is running it should be between 10 and 14%.
11-14-11, 09:28 AM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Well, lets put it this way, the adjustment itself takes 2 minutes. But to get to the adjustment, you need to take off your whole intake and take off the throttle body. For me its a 30 minute job, but for someone inexperienced, its gonna take an hour or even more.
If you're suspecting your friends throttle position sensor to be faulty, invest into one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
This is what I bought. It is less than $20 shipped, and using this cable you can hook up a laptop to your car and read sensor data. The software I used is ScanMaster ELF 1.7 (its an older version, i believe version 2.2 or 2.1 is out now), it costs $75, but the cable comes with some free software that you can use.
You will need a laptop running windows XP. These diagnostic programs don't like Vista/7, at least I didn't have much luck.
The TPS sensor data should be between 14.4 and 16%, when the ignition is ON (but the car isn't running). When the car is running it should be between 10 and 14%.
If you're suspecting your friends throttle position sensor to be faulty, invest into one of these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
This is what I bought. It is less than $20 shipped, and using this cable you can hook up a laptop to your car and read sensor data. The software I used is ScanMaster ELF 1.7 (its an older version, i believe version 2.2 or 2.1 is out now), it costs $75, but the cable comes with some free software that you can use.
You will need a laptop running windows XP. These diagnostic programs don't like Vista/7, at least I didn't have much luck.
The TPS sensor data should be between 14.4 and 16%, when the ignition is ON (but the car isn't running). When the car is running it should be between 10 and 14%.
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