Code P0763 Solenoid C Electrical ----NEED HELP----
#1
Code P0763 Solenoid C Electrical ----NEED HELP----
so i got this code pop up a few days ago.. hooked up my scanner and came up with
P0763 - Solenoid C Electrical
Now my car drives kinda funny.. shift from 1st to 2nd really quick (2.5K RPM) and sometime it tends to stay in 3rd gear for a good second before shifting dependin of the pressure of the gas pedal with my foot on it. Jerks a bit too, after that night of looking and digging up info i found out that it can be either the ECU, Connector wire (harness), or the solenoid itself... Checked my Tranny fluid today- Still red and at normal level when hot..
The next day, i reset my ECU and clear my CEL and my car ran perfect. No shifting problems nor jerks.... after 50 miles later, CEL popped up again with the same code. tried clearing the code again with my scanner, it wont clear since its a HARD CODE... its driving and acting up again..
i will be looking into this over the weekend, just got a question to knock down one of my diagnostic..
i kno there are some difference in years in our 2GS so im just asking...
1. Will a 98-05 GS3 ECU plug and play or do i have to program it to my car for it to work?
any help would be great.......
referring to this old thread that i didnt wanna bump up
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...763-p0715.html
For future reference, here's the part required to fix the P0763 code (assuming it's not the ECM or the wiring harness):
Solenoid Assembly, Transmission 3Way, No.2 [aka Solenoid "C"]
Part #: 35230-30010
P0763 - Solenoid C Electrical
Now my car drives kinda funny.. shift from 1st to 2nd really quick (2.5K RPM) and sometime it tends to stay in 3rd gear for a good second before shifting dependin of the pressure of the gas pedal with my foot on it. Jerks a bit too, after that night of looking and digging up info i found out that it can be either the ECU, Connector wire (harness), or the solenoid itself... Checked my Tranny fluid today- Still red and at normal level when hot..
The next day, i reset my ECU and clear my CEL and my car ran perfect. No shifting problems nor jerks.... after 50 miles later, CEL popped up again with the same code. tried clearing the code again with my scanner, it wont clear since its a HARD CODE... its driving and acting up again..
i will be looking into this over the weekend, just got a question to knock down one of my diagnostic..
i kno there are some difference in years in our 2GS so im just asking...
1. Will a 98-05 GS3 ECU plug and play or do i have to program it to my car for it to work?
any help would be great.......
referring to this old thread that i didnt wanna bump up
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...763-p0715.html
For future reference, here's the part required to fix the P0763 code (assuming it's not the ECM or the wiring harness):
Solenoid Assembly, Transmission 3Way, No.2 [aka Solenoid "C"]
Part #: 35230-30010
#4
dam got caught up haha, but seriously tho.. need to knock out one of the cause if so
#5
since no one wants to help... lol i took it into my own hands and dug more research on all data and went thru with the diagnostic... So instead of pulling the pan off (1st step)
Tools = Paper Clip, DVOM, and a aligator clip wires
By using the DVOM and paper clip
grounded each solenoid and one to the wire itself on the ecu and found out that sensor 1 and 2 was giving out 14ohms and sensor 3 was open.. this is at the ecu harness plug (engine bay) e4 connector, i believe its the smallest connector in the center of the ecu. (forgot what color wire each solenoid was haha)
Good solenoid is average to 11-14 ohms
then i went ahead and applied 12v battery (alligator clip wire) to each solenoid and 1 & 2 clicks just to verify.. did 3 and no clicks, so in conclusion = SOLENOID 3 is open
ill try to get the diagnostic paper and pics later
HOPE THIS HELPS others cause i really couldnt find anything on CL that actually help solve this problem
Tools = Paper Clip, DVOM, and a aligator clip wires
By using the DVOM and paper clip
grounded each solenoid and one to the wire itself on the ecu and found out that sensor 1 and 2 was giving out 14ohms and sensor 3 was open.. this is at the ecu harness plug (engine bay) e4 connector, i believe its the smallest connector in the center of the ecu. (forgot what color wire each solenoid was haha)
Good solenoid is average to 11-14 ohms
then i went ahead and applied 12v battery (alligator clip wire) to each solenoid and 1 & 2 clicks just to verify.. did 3 and no clicks, so in conclusion = SOLENOID 3 is open
ill try to get the diagnostic paper and pics later
HOPE THIS HELPS others cause i really couldnt find anything on CL that actually help solve this problem
#6
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...oid-fixed.html
It wasn't really hard, just need a multimeter and a tool to cut the tranny sealant off.
I tried all the things you did, but I think your pan need needs to come off. As u will see from my experience I didn't even have to replace the solenoid. Just bent the connectors a bit, that was 50,000kms ago, still going strong..Good Luck.
It wasn't really hard, just need a multimeter and a tool to cut the tranny sealant off.
I tried all the things you did, but I think your pan need needs to come off. As u will see from my experience I didn't even have to replace the solenoid. Just bent the connectors a bit, that was 50,000kms ago, still going strong..Good Luck.
#7
yeah i read your thread the other day before i posted this thread.. im definately sure my solenoid is open and not even moving since i tried triggin it with battery voltage and nothing clicks... luckly i didnt have to drop the pan, smart thinking!! i ordered the part, its was 260 shipped OEM part
well see how it goes saturday night..
well see how it goes saturday night..
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#8
hey I was wondering if anyone can help me out. I am having a similar problem. However my code 0750 is for solenoid A. I need to know witch one solenoid A is?????? Can anyone help????? Also I tried to test the solenoids. They were all the same and none showed open. So I am hoping it actually is the solenoid. My pan is off right now and my car is on jackstand so I am just going to change the solenoid when i figure out witch one it is and hope it fixes the problem.
#9
yeah i read your thread the other day before i posted this thread.. im definately sure my solenoid is open and not even moving since i tried triggin it with battery voltage and nothing clicks... luckly i didnt have to drop the pan, smart thinking!! i ordered the part, its was 260 shipped OEM part
well see how it goes saturday night..
well see how it goes saturday night..
Very curious as to how you made out!!!!
#11
since no one wants to help... lol i took it into my own hands and dug more research on all data and went thru with the diagnostic... So instead of pulling the pan off (1st step)
Tools = Paper Clip, DVOM, and a aligator clip wires
By using the DVOM and paper clip
grounded each solenoid and one to the wire itself on the ecu and found out that sensor 1 and 2 was giving out 14ohms and sensor 3 was open.. this is at the ecu harness plug (engine bay) e4 connector, i believe its the smallest connector in the center of the ecu. (forgot what color wire each solenoid was haha)
Good solenoid is average to 11-14 ohms
then i went ahead and applied 12v battery (alligator clip wire) to each solenoid and 1 & 2 clicks just to verify.. did 3 and no clicks, so in conclusion = SOLENOID 3 is open
ill try to get the diagnostic paper and pics later
HOPE THIS HELPS others cause i really couldnt find anything on CL that actually help solve this problem
Tools = Paper Clip, DVOM, and a aligator clip wires
By using the DVOM and paper clip
grounded each solenoid and one to the wire itself on the ecu and found out that sensor 1 and 2 was giving out 14ohms and sensor 3 was open.. this is at the ecu harness plug (engine bay) e4 connector, i believe its the smallest connector in the center of the ecu. (forgot what color wire each solenoid was haha)
Good solenoid is average to 11-14 ohms
then i went ahead and applied 12v battery (alligator clip wire) to each solenoid and 1 & 2 clicks just to verify.. did 3 and no clicks, so in conclusion = SOLENOID 3 is open
ill try to get the diagnostic paper and pics later
HOPE THIS HELPS others cause i really couldnt find anything on CL that actually help solve this problem
Also, you mentioned in your first post solenoid 2 will fix this but later on you said it was solenoid 3 that was open. Which did you end up replacing?
#12
yeah i read your thread the other day before i posted this thread.. im definately sure my solenoid is open and not even moving since i tried triggin it with battery voltage and nothing clicks... luckly i didnt have to drop the pan, smart thinking!! i ordered the part, its was 260 shipped OEM part
well see how it goes saturday night..
well see how it goes saturday night..
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missvorn
GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005)
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02-26-15 06:48 AM