Pogigreg

Two weeks ago, my car would not start. Tried to jump it, because I thought it was a bad battery. I have radio, and lights, but when I attached the cables nothing happened. Turn the key and nothing. No click or anything. I had the car towed to my mechanic. When he got in the next morning, the car started right up. He said when he tested the battery it was weak. So he recharged the battery, and I went and replaced the battery. Now, tonight, I parked the car in front of the house, and now I went out to move it into the driveway, and when I went to start it, the same thing happened. I am confused with this symptom. Anyone have any ideas?

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

If you just get a single click every time you attempt to start, your starter is having problems.

tamtanium

It can be a couple of problems. But first go to your local Autozone or Kragen..have them check your starter and alternator.

Did you installed any new head unit, speakers or anything like that recently? It can be that something is always on and is draining your battery power.

jhill20

iTrader: (1)

Have someone check for any codes that may be stored in the PCM, that are not current, so as to not turning on the Check engine light.

Sounds like it may be ignition system related.

ie theft system, ignition switch, starter, wiring, etc.

Pogigreg

I have an aftermarket Pioneer Navi installed. That's it. No amps or anything.

The factory anti theft works, but not the locking function. I believe it is something with the door lock actuators. I have manually lock the car.

I don't know my way around this car, as it's my wife's primary car. In order to check the starter, don't it have to be off the car?

FrankT

I doubt the part stores will check your parts while they are still in your car.
You can check your own alternator with a cheap $5 voltmeter.

Your car will start, if you have a good battery, you just will have to sit there and keep turning the key till it starts even if it takes a few minutes. So save your self a tow next time.

This my friend is a good sign of a bad starter.

How many miles on the car?
Starter contacts are a wear item inside the starter.
Rebuilding the starter is straight forward and not difficult, but the removal in the 1UZ is not so easy.

jhill20

iTrader: (1)

Not necesarily. You need to make sure you have battery power to it, on the large gauge wire, and signal (voltage) from the ignition switch, under cranking.

If you have the above at the correct times. and no starter function. You have a malfunctioning starter.

But to bench test it yes it has to be removed.

jhill20

iTrader: (1)

So true! lol forgot it was a 1UZ!!!!!!!!!

Pogigreg

My GS has 222k plus miles. What kind of price am I looking at for a starter job. Judging by some of the replies to this post, the start is some what difficult to get to.

FrankT

1999 Lexus GS 400 Starting Problems

This thread, has good info about the starter removal, rebuilding and replacing.
As well as cost of what some folks have paid to have it done.

Pogigreg

Starter under the intake?? Oh great!

HtownGS4

iTrader: (1)

I am an ex Lexus tech. It's not so difficult. You just have to be careful with all plastic connectors, ect. They are very brittle when they get old and love to break. Especially the connectors on the injectors. You can leave your fuel rail connected and just disconnect everything on the passenger side of the intake manifold and roll it over. Just did mine for the second time a few months ago. Also if you do it make sure to check the coolant crossover pipe on the back side. Mine was leaking and you will want to fix that while you're in there if yours is.

Pogigreg

OK, I've decided to dive head first into this starter job. I was successful in getting all of the nuts and bolts that hold the intake manifold. The fuel return line is giving me a bit of a fit, and I don't want to break it. Just verifying, which way do I turn to loosen the line?

Pogigreg

I can't believe something as simple as this is giving me fits. Which way is the nut supposed to be turned. Towards the passenger side?

bmackinnon

That's a normal RH thread.... righty tighty, lefty loosey... (yes, if the wrench is pointed up, towards the pass. side). You should have used a line wrench on the flair fitting... looks like the flats are funked up now and it may be vice grip time.... See if you can beg, borrow, steal a line wrench and maybe it will still go on there with a little persuasion.... then you can put the torque to it... if this is has got you in a tizzy, I anticipate this will be a long thread....