A peek of things to come
08-22-10, 11:02 PM
#17
If you have questions about the valves just ask I can help walk you thru it. As far as what I see in the pics you should change out that water trap, it will not hold the pressure if you are using a 200 psi pressure switch. Do it right once. A proper water trap would have an aluminum bowl and be rated for the pressure that you need, if you need to know where to get it pm me I let you know. Other than that all looks good!! Wheels should look nice when done.
my switch is 165/200
my safety release valve is 180
the tank rating is 250 psi
my manual needle gauge is 200 psi
how will this all work together? wouldnt my safety release open at 180, while my compressors will continue filling til 200??
08-22-10, 11:36 PM
#18
[QUOTE=5t341th;5734747]yea i was kinda wondering about them. its rated at 150 psi. im not quite understanding of all this pressure stuff. Everything is manufactured for different uses. A component which sees more pressure than it is rated for will result in premature failure. Your water trap is rated at 150 psi, you will be running 200, that means that you are overloading it by 50 psi. The result will be that it fails. Get a proper rated water trap and use the proper components. I also want to make sure that the fittings that you are using are DOT approved and not home depot, because they will fail. Read this thread for the reasons why, http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f125/tested-d-o-t-fittings-versus-home-depot-fittings-259393/
my switch is 165/200:
I figured that, you are using the Viair 480c compressors?
my safety release valve is 180
I have done a more than a few air installs and have yet to use a safety release valve. Why do you feel that you need one?
the tank rating is 250 psi
That is average rating most tanks for cars are between 200-300
my manual needle gauge is 200 psi
Thats fine the gauge for the tank would be for reference only, since the pressure switch automatically kicks the compressors on.
how will this all work together? wouldnt my safety release open at 180, while my compressors will continue filling til 200??
If you are intent on using a safety valve than get one thats rated at 205-210 psi. If the safety that you are using now opens at 180 that means that your compressors will never turn off because the pressure switch only turns off once you reach 200, since it never see 200 the pressure switch will keep the compressors on. You will be dumping air into your trunk, and continuously running the compressors.
my switch is 165/200:
I figured that, you are using the Viair 480c compressors?
my safety release valve is 180
I have done a more than a few air installs and have yet to use a safety release valve. Why do you feel that you need one?
the tank rating is 250 psi
That is average rating most tanks for cars are between 200-300
my manual needle gauge is 200 psi
Thats fine the gauge for the tank would be for reference only, since the pressure switch automatically kicks the compressors on.
how will this all work together? wouldnt my safety release open at 180, while my compressors will continue filling til 200??
If you are intent on using a safety valve than get one thats rated at 205-210 psi. If the safety that you are using now opens at 180 that means that your compressors will never turn off because the pressure switch only turns off once you reach 200, since it never see 200 the pressure switch will keep the compressors on. You will be dumping air into your trunk, and continuously running the compressors.
08-29-10, 05:10 PM
#21
im almost done with the wiring and bag install. just waiting for all my fittings to come in. also im waiting for my air hoses to come in. 20ft isnt enough!
spyder78, i got a question. my rears seem to have a lot of play in them. it can move up and down a lot. is this normal? i was told once the bag inflates, it will fill the gap. i test aired up the bag and it did fill up the gap tho. but now im seeing that the tophat hits the air fitting.
heres a video of the gap im talking about
spyder78, i got a question. my rears seem to have a lot of play in them. it can move up and down a lot. is this normal? i was told once the bag inflates, it will fill the gap. i test aired up the bag and it did fill up the gap tho. but now im seeing that the tophat hits the air fitting.
heres a video of the gap im talking about
08-30-10, 03:48 PM
#23
spyder78, i got a question. my rears seem to have a lot of play in them. it can move up and down a lot. is this normal? i was told once the bag inflates, it will fill the gap. i test aired up the bag and it did fill up the gap tho. but now im seeing that the tophat hits the air fitting.
heres a video of the gap im talking about
heres a video of the gap im talking about
08-30-10, 04:26 PM
#24
thanks for the reply. i did order 80ft of lines now. i also ordered some 1/4 hose union tee so i can keep that in my emergency air kit.
im confused about cutting a notch in the top hat. the tophat freely spins around. wouldnt the notch move around anyway?
im confused about cutting a notch in the top hat. the tophat freely spins around. wouldnt the notch move around anyway?
08-31-10, 08:20 AM
#25
If u notice the top hat only mounts to the car one way. It secures from the 3 nuts on top and the top bolts on the inside of the rear quarter. The only thing that should spin freely is the bag, but that only applies when there is no weight on the bag. When u attach the strut, and are ready to notch the top hat I face the fitting toward the rear of the car and see approximately where the top hat would hit the fitting and notch it. You don't have to notch much just give it some space so that you don't break the fitting.
Last edited by Spyder78; 08-31-10 at 09:47 AM.
08-31-10, 08:38 PM
#28
thanks. i notched the rears yesterday. looks clean with a nice spray of paint. i got a 5 gal tank.
i routed my hoses today. its nice to have a lift a work so i can route it much easier. i have another question. if i kink the hose and cause a bend in it, is it bad now? im not sure if it is still safe to use. cuz it could be a weak point in the line and blow out from there.
i routed my hoses today. its nice to have a lift a work so i can route it much easier. i have another question. if i kink the hose and cause a bend in it, is it bad now? im not sure if it is still safe to use. cuz it could be a weak point in the line and blow out from there.
08-31-10, 11:20 PM
#29
thanks. i notched the rears yesterday. looks clean with a nice spray of paint. i got a 5 gal tank.
i routed my hoses today. its nice to have a lift a work so i can route it much easier. i have another question. if i kink the hose and cause a bend in it, is it bad now? im not sure if it is still safe to use. cuz it could be a weak point in the line and blow out from there.
i routed my hoses today. its nice to have a lift a work so i can route it much easier. i have another question. if i kink the hose and cause a bend in it, is it bad now? im not sure if it is still safe to use. cuz it could be a weak point in the line and blow out from there.
