help buffing headlight lens!!!!!!
12-06-10, 10:00 PM
#1
help buffing headlight lens!!!!!!
i really need some help with this. im putting my q45 retro back together so i buffed the lens to make em clear.
i used 400g, 600g, 1000g, 2000g and plastx
what the hell is going on? its worst than it was before!
i tried using my DA polisher but its dark right now and i dont wanna run my compressors and disturb people.
would using my polisher clear this out?
i used 400g, 600g, 1000g, 2000g and plastx
what the hell is going on? its worst than it was before!
i tried using my DA polisher but its dark right now and i dont wanna run my compressors and disturb people.
would using my polisher clear this out?
Last edited by 5t341th; 12-06-10 at 10:08 PM.
12-06-10, 11:59 PM
#4
i buff my headlights about every 4 months. I think I will clear coat em next time.
^^ those 2 cats are right, once you buff it out with the plastic polish, it should come out much better. no need to panic. hehe
Idk about 400g and 600grit sandpaper. I think those are a little too coarse imo. Also, could it be that the DA sander is harder to control? Possibly causing damage to the headlights. I usually use 1000grit and a wetsand method with a bucket of water or spray bottle.
^^ those 2 cats are right, once you buff it out with the plastic polish, it should come out much better. no need to panic. hehe
Idk about 400g and 600grit sandpaper. I think those are a little too coarse imo. Also, could it be that the DA sander is harder to control? Possibly causing damage to the headlights. I usually use 1000grit and a wetsand method with a bucket of water or spray bottle.
12-07-10, 12:04 AM
#6
have you guys in the states got this???
http://www.glassylite.net.au/
you should have that product there...
basically it's all your standard stuff - wet dry paper... cleaner... polish etc...
but it also has a nanosealant - which is the important part... stops you from having to do it every three months and brings them up like crystal clear...
http://www.glassylite.net.au/
you should have that product there...
basically it's all your standard stuff - wet dry paper... cleaner... polish etc...
but it also has a nanosealant - which is the important part... stops you from having to do it every three months and brings them up like crystal clear...
12-07-10, 05:26 AM
#7
You didn't mention if you were wetsanding or not, this is critical, wetsanding is defiantly key here. If you dry sanded them, and the polish doesn't turn out right, just start over wetsanding this time and polish again.
I've had the best luck in the past wetsanding from 1000 -> 1500 -> 2000 -> 2500. I know the 2000/2500 just feels like rubbing soggy paper on it that doesn't seem to be doing much, but I've had much better final results when going higher. The higher level you wetsand to, the easier polishing/buffing will be.
You roughed them up pretty good if you started with 400, also 1000->2000 is a big jump, grit that high don't feel much different to the hand but will can a difference in the final outcome. And I assume you had some pitting to get out, otherwise if there is no damage just clouding you can usually start with 1000 maybe 800 at the most.
Hand buffing usually works ok with some patience, you can use the DA but just be careful and don't overdo it, can be easy to go beyond the point of a polish and into the point of burning a cloudy spot back into it.
Plastix works good, I've also used the Permetex brand and liked it, I've never tried the turtle wax brand but heard other people have liked it.
I've had the best luck in the past wetsanding from 1000 -> 1500 -> 2000 -> 2500. I know the 2000/2500 just feels like rubbing soggy paper on it that doesn't seem to be doing much, but I've had much better final results when going higher. The higher level you wetsand to, the easier polishing/buffing will be.
You roughed them up pretty good if you started with 400, also 1000->2000 is a big jump, grit that high don't feel much different to the hand but will can a difference in the final outcome. And I assume you had some pitting to get out, otherwise if there is no damage just clouding you can usually start with 1000 maybe 800 at the most.
Hand buffing usually works ok with some patience, you can use the DA but just be careful and don't overdo it, can be easy to go beyond the point of a polish and into the point of burning a cloudy spot back into it.
Plastix works good, I've also used the Permetex brand and liked it, I've never tried the turtle wax brand but heard other people have liked it.
Last edited by 99 GS3; 12-07-10 at 08:01 AM.
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12-07-10, 05:50 AM
#8
Need to prep the lens for paint and strip and polishes/waxes off them first for the clear to take correctly. I also used Bulldog adhesion promoter before the clear.
Last edited by 99 GS3; 12-07-10 at 07:55 AM.
12-07-10, 05:28 PM
#15
well i used my DA polisher all day today. didnt do anything!
i even bought some rubbing compound and it didnt do much.
im screwed here now. guess i will have to buy brand new headlights
i used 2000g sandpaper to sand the other lens and it leaves such deep scratches. i dont know what the problem is.......
all of this is of course, wetsand
i even bought some rubbing compound and it didnt do much.
im screwed here now. guess i will have to buy brand new headlights
i used 2000g sandpaper to sand the other lens and it leaves such deep scratches. i dont know what the problem is.......
all of this is of course, wetsand