99SC42

iTrader: (44)

No i haven't mess with it because i have a cel for the cat converter and i know on my older gs when my cat converter went back it set the check engine , vsc, abs and trac light on so i am just gonna replace the cat or just sell the car and get something else .
it has 206k miles i don't wanna put anymore money in the car.

fuzzzz

iTrader: (19)

Those lights are one for me too after my ball joint took a dump which also messed up my control arms. My uncle's shop said that it was going to cost me 100 bucks to get a new one (speed sensor) . I .. haven't done that yet. hahaa

jvxdriver

I just experienced this same symptom on my 08 IS250 yesterday. The 'Check VSC' indicator came on along with the ABS, VSC, and Traction light on the dash, and it lock me in park. I checked all the fuses under the hood as well as inside under the foot areas, and the fuses look good.

Since I couldn't take it out of park, I may have to get it towed tomorrow, but I would like to know what else I can do myself. Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.

Sick03L

It if starts then use the shift lock release by the shift lever. Should be a little rectangle cap, pry it out with a flat head and then insert the flathead in the slot and press down. This should free up your shifter so you can drive it to the shop and save yourself a tow bill.

jvxdriver

^ Thanks for the suggestion. It works. I can now shift out of park into reverse and drive. However, the steering wheel is very hard; there's no power to it. I'm afraid to pull out of the garage into the street and drive. Hopefully, it will loosen up as I pick up speed you think? Hopefully, I can make it to the dealer in the morning.

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

That sounds very dangerous -- there's a reason you have the little hold to shift out of park and its simply for reasons such as if you car becomes unable to move it can be towed safely and sound onto a tow truck to a shop. It seems to me (and this forum is for GS2's) that you have a problem with your computer, either ABS or ECM etc. I would get it to the dealer asap. I'm pretty sure as with the 2ns gen Gs that you'll have an issue with getting the codes read from an automotive shop with a regular OBD2 scanner. If you have a CEL on it MIGHT give you the code related to what is causing the malfunction but not if its in the ABS, VSC, or traction system. Basically you'll need a 'high-tech' scan tool/snap on diagnostic computer to check that out. If you have no power steering again; your IS is mostly all electronics to deal with so I would get it checked out before you damage something and the repair bills are sky high.

To the OP:

If you replaced your lower ball joints/tie rods and you removed the upper nut that connects the upper ball joint on the control arm to the spindle/knuckle that is the only way you can damage that ABS sensor. There is a slight chance you could have tugged on it but if you left everything intact then i'd highly doubt it.

If you want to check the sensors it's simple. Remove the wheel and get behind the hub/spindle and look for the two 10mm nuts that hold the sensor on. Remove it and clean the sensor if theres any white or dark grease in there or on the sensor (small round piece of metal) then clean it off. If theres alot of grease in there there might be a bigger pressing issue like your wheel bearings might be on there way out.

If you've cleane it; but it back and then tighten the sensor head to the spindle/knuckle. Then follow the cable on the ABS sensor all the way. You'll come to a point where there is a snap connector. Carefully remove it and get an multimeter; any type will do but you'll want to measure it in ohms or volts if you can convert it in your head. Get your readings and report back. Obv if both are putting out the spec voltage (as posted in the thread earlier) then you know its a computer somewhere. If one sensor is reading less voltage remove it and cut the wire dont split it completely but just cut the 'sheathing' on the wire and see where it seems to be split or pressed or bent. Use solder to repair the connections and make sure you heatshrink and then tape it up. Report back.

Generally when you have the ABS lights and you follow the paper clip reset procedure (under hood) and remove the battery cable for over an hour or so and drive the car -- once everything is good and the computers are reading fine then your light will eventually dissapear. If it remains you have bigger issues.

Hope this helps.