iselkars2

Thank you for your reply! Found this thread/post:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...omparison.html

To me, the illuminated bulb is the DRL because they come on during the day.

The furthest outside bulb, in the furthest outside cluster, comes on as low beams and then the middle bulb, above the lit bulb shown, comes on as the high beams. Why is there any confusion? Why wouldn’t I go with way less expensive LEDs in this case, rather than the Polargs?

iselkars2

Great point! Thanks Muffinizer!

8M6

iTrader: (2)

The high beams are 9005, not 9006.

Also, being that I'm a second-wave owner when LEDs were already taking over the T10 wedge base bulb market, I've never heard of Polarg bulbs until now. I guess if you still want the simplicity of incandescent bulbs and not going through countless returns on Amazon trying to find the perfect matching 194 LED, sure.

Okay, so now I'm slightly confused as to who is trying to describe what. For the record, I have a '98, the only year that didn't have DRLs. My understanding was that on the '99-'05 GS, the DRL was the 9005 high beam running at 50% brightness. The smaller 194 bulb is a running light/city light/whatever else you want to call it, but not the DRL. 194 bulbs are so dim that they're barely serviceable as DRLs, although not that it can't be done.

If you want to upgrade your 9005 high beams, then follow Muffinizer's advice. If you want to upgrade your 194 bulbs, the options are endless. If you're picky about the brightness, projection, and matching the color temperature with your other lights, then you'll probably be playing LED roulette on Amazon.

captainva

iTrader: (1)

The high beams at 50% voltage are the DRLs. The tiny 168 bulbs in the high beam housing only come on with the headlights. Your DRLs will stop working if you swap the high beams to LED no matter what bulb you use. To have them come back on at a lower voltage you need to add a resistor. The R1 kit below has everything thats needed but note the resistor will get very hot when in use so mount it accordingly.

https://store.ijdmtoy.com/pages/lexu...allation-guide
https://store.ijdmtoy.com/products/l...29241153552487

iselkars2

I WAS WRONG, WRONG, WRONG. Mistook the peanut bulb for the high beam at 50%. Sorry for the confusion! :-{

iselkars2

Okay, I’ve calmed down now and done some research. Apparently, many locations require a load or resistance interface of some sort to offset issues with hyper-flash an/or voltage/wattage differences. With that being said, I’d like some advice for the 7440 ambers up front and the variety of 7440/7443 red and white rear bulbs.

1. 7440 amber up front. Does it require an interface as described above? Will a 7440/7443 amber work as well as a dedicated 7440? I understand that a 7443 will work in a 7440 location, but not vice versa, right?
2. Reverse clear 7440s are pretty self-explanatory. Do they need an interface since they don’t flash?
3. The four red 7443s. Will they need the interfaces since they have dual voltage/wattage running through them?
4. Rear 7440 ambers. Do they need the interfaces?
5. Will a CANBUS led bulb eliminate the need for the above mentioned interface?

TashaGreen

A lot of people say this, and it's semi-accurate. This is what most people think of when they say this:



Unfortunately, headlamps and bulbs are 3D objects:



You won't find any LED bulb that actually matches a filament tit-for-tat. Yes, matching the dimensions are important. But people always forget the pesky little fact that filaments and bulbs are 3D objects, and good luck matching a filament on that third, most important dimension.

The net effect is crappy illumination when you get something that doesn't match from a 3D perspective:

59rkg43GS4

Problem is actually not solved. thought it was that day. Changed out that resistor twice, and the green module i had pictured above. Lights still do not shut off.