Weapon R Dragon Intake System
#16
Yeah I did... had the battery disconnected the whole time i did the install!!! Im begining to wonder if i got the Top Speed Headers and M2 exhaust system, If that will compensate for the (LUXURY CAR) lag. I mean Im not trying to drag my GS just give a bit of confidence as it sits next to my friends M3..lol. Well if you have any insight on the stated above mods let me know. Thanx
#18
Yeah I did... had the battery disconnected the whole time i did the install!!! Im begining to wonder if i got the Top Speed Headers and M2 exhaust system, If that will compensate for the (LUXURY CAR) lag. I mean Im not trying to drag my GS just give a bit of confidence as it sits next to my friends M3..lol. Well if you have any insight on the stated above mods let me know. Thanx
On a side note, I ran a switch pitch TC (3400/2200) in my GN with a turbo 400 trans. I am looking at the hydraulic circuit on the GS trans to try and figure out a way to route pressure through the input shaft and to the TC. Modifying the TC to switch pitch is easy (lots of work but easy). Long term project by all means.
Anyone have any experience with aftermarket, higher stall torque converters for the 2nd gen GS3's?
Thanks,
Dean
#19
#20
And OP, Stick with the SRT if you can find it. I was always thinking of making a BFI for the GS, but I'm under the impression it wouldn't be as easy as the SC was back in the day. Drop the Dragon and go back to stock and throw in a K&N and call it a day. If you wanna spice things up, maybe cut out the air baffle in the intake tube and seal that up? I know that is built in there to quiet the intake up. Either way good luck.
#24
STOP DERAILING OTHER PEOPLES THREADS B!!!!
Yeah I have no luck with air intakes, I had wasted money twice on two other cars prior thinking I'm gonna get a few ponies.....NOT. Forced induction or just leave the motor stock.
Yeah I have no luck with air intakes, I had wasted money twice on two other cars prior thinking I'm gonna get a few ponies.....NOT. Forced induction or just leave the motor stock.
#26
[/QUOTE]Yeah I have no luck with air intakes, I had wasted money twice on two other cars prior thinking I'm gonna get a few ponies.....NOT. Forced induction or just leave the motor stock.[/QUOTE]
actually the SRT with harness will net you in the area of 22 hp i believe
this will help alot, just get the SRT intake $500 but will get you around 20 hp
#28
Lol well the gs is the predominate or the sc I dunno which anymore. No by all means your not limited....I troll a lot but I try and make my points intuitive and helpful to the subject not just " oh those look good" "sick...." "insane" and some of the other gibberish you been posting....to build your ever growing post count (again I know it's ironic coming from me) All in all my original ? Was do u own a gs, think by now it's been concluded no you don't. So yeah your def welcome around here but wouldn't it be better if your posts were more informative and inciteful? BTW no I dont own anything on here....cept my gs.
Wanna talk more? Let's go to PM n get this thread back on track
Wanna talk more? Let's go to PM n get this thread back on track
To the OP, this says for 98-00 but they have for the 01-05 model also. You could probably find a used one in the classifieds if available.
http://www.swiftracing.com/SRT/item.aspx?id=5
#29
A bit verbose but I hope that answers your question.
#30
Most of the aftermarket intake systems are the same: a pipe with a filter on the end. There is differentiation with pipe size (some are 2 1/2" and some are 3" in diameter). Some also have "heat shields" which can easily be fabricated out of sheet metal. The fuel computer is what separates the SRT system. You can go that route and get good "plug and play so to speak results (you do have to hack into your ECU harness but you need to do that with most if not all piggyback fuel computers). An S-AFC (also referred to as NEO--the NEO is the latest version, basically a replacement for the S-AFC or Super-AFC) from APEX would work. Again, the main problem with a larger diameter intake is that the motor will run lean. With the stock, somewhat restrictive system, the AFM gives a 100% reading at WOT at about 3K RPM (at least on my car). So increase the pipe diameter and the AFM may not ever reach 100%, probably about 15-25% less than the actual air flow. So the motor will be lean. The ECU can compensate for about 10% (using O2 sensor feedback) but when the ECU has maxed out fuel trim it will not add any more fuel, the car will be sluggish and you will more than likely get a check engine light. The piggyback fuel computer interrupts the AFM signal and increases or decreases it (depending on the settings on the unit) so you "fool" the ECU into thinking there is less or more air volume and the ECU en-richens or leans the mixture accordingly.
A bit verbose but I hope that answers your question.
A bit verbose but I hope that answers your question.