Weapon R Dragon Intake System
04-02-11, 08:05 PM
#31
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Most of the aftermarket intake systems are the same: a pipe with a filter on the end. There is differentiation with pipe size (some are 2 1/2" and some are 3" in diameter). Some also have "heat shields" which can easily be fabricated out of sheet metal. The fuel computer is what separates the SRT system. You can go that route and get good "plug and play so to speak results (you do have to hack into your ECU harness but you need to do that with most if not all piggyback fuel computers). An S-AFC (also referred to as NEO--the NEO is the latest version, basically a replacement for the S-AFC or Super-AFC) from APEX would work. Again, the main problem with a larger diameter intake is that the motor will run lean. With the stock, somewhat restrictive system, the AFM gives a 100% reading at WOT at about 3K RPM (at least on my car). So increase the pipe diameter and the AFM may not ever reach 100%, probably about 15-25% less than the actual air flow. So the motor will be lean. The ECU can compensate for about 10% (using O2 sensor feedback) but when the ECU has maxed out fuel trim it will not add any more fuel, the car will be sluggish and you will more than likely get a check engine light. The piggyback fuel computer interrupts the AFM signal and increases or decreases it (depending on the settings on the unit) so you "fool" the ECU into thinking there is less or more air volume and the ECU en-richens or leans the mixture accordingly.
A bit verbose but I hope that answers your question.
A bit verbose but I hope that answers your question.
04-02-11, 09:07 PM
#32
No problem.
I've used thermal wrap in the past and it does work well at keeping the heat inside the header. Some potential drawbacks:
1) If it is a thin wall header there may be thermal fatigue due to the increased heat. This can lead to header cracks and disintegration.
2) If the thermal wrap is not sealed properly (Thermotec makes a spray on coating for this) the wrap tends to act like a wick and pull in/hold moisture against the header. Depending on the header material this can cause rust, mild steel and low grade stainless being the most susceptible.
You will probably see a slightly lower engine bay temperature and not having all of the heat radiating from the header directly under the intake tube does help. As far as power increase, probably not much but lowering the heat in the engine bay helps to prolong the life of everything in the bay (electronics, hoses, wires, etc). I run it on my GN header and my Supra T04 header. After driving around I can reach down and grab the header. It's only warm. Thermotec is what I use.
I've used thermal wrap in the past and it does work well at keeping the heat inside the header. Some potential drawbacks:
1) If it is a thin wall header there may be thermal fatigue due to the increased heat. This can lead to header cracks and disintegration.
2) If the thermal wrap is not sealed properly (Thermotec makes a spray on coating for this) the wrap tends to act like a wick and pull in/hold moisture against the header. Depending on the header material this can cause rust, mild steel and low grade stainless being the most susceptible.
You will probably see a slightly lower engine bay temperature and not having all of the heat radiating from the header directly under the intake tube does help. As far as power increase, probably not much but lowering the heat in the engine bay helps to prolong the life of everything in the bay (electronics, hoses, wires, etc). I run it on my GN header and my Supra T04 header. After driving around I can reach down and grab the header. It's only warm. Thermotec is what I use.
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