Weapon R Dragon Intake System
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OK everyone this is my first thread here, and as u can see from the title..this has to deal with the Weapon R Dragon Intake System. I just installed one on my 01 GS300 and the throttle response bogs when i try to gun it at a stand still, then kicks in later. I would like to know if anyone else experience this with other intake systems or did I get jipped on this thing. Please let me know if its just a piece of crap intake system or if you have another hypothesis. Thanks
#2
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I might be wrong, but if I remember right
I would still sport one
Down-sides to a SRI
The fact that the SRI still resides within the engine bay is bad. Reason being, hot air produced by the engine is being sucked into the intake. Hot air robs power as air density is less than as if it were cold. Denser colder air is better for the engine since it will have a higher concentration of oxygen in the same amount of volume. The loss of torque inherent in a SRI is also a bit of down-side, especially for the lancer. A SRI will move the powerband higher meaning you'd have to wait more rpm to hit where your engine will be making good/accelerating power. Where this is most apparent is shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This is because even if you shift at redline(6250 rpm) in 1st gear, you will be stuck under the powerband in 2nd. This example is for a lancer that is equipped with a 5-speed transmission. You're gonna just sit there waiting to hit the powerband at around 4000 rpm. But when you do hit 4000rpm, you will notice a better improvement all the way to redline! The upper half of the RPM range benefits from the easier breathing SRI.
* A SRI is a short length of pipe with the MAS and cone filter attached designed to replace the stock airbox
* Sucks in hot engine bay air (Lose power!)
* Better top-end power
* Better throttle response
* Poorer low to mid-range torque
The fact that the SRI still resides within the engine bay is bad. Reason being, hot air produced by the engine is being sucked into the intake. Hot air robs power as air density is less than as if it were cold. Denser colder air is better for the engine since it will have a higher concentration of oxygen in the same amount of volume. The loss of torque inherent in a SRI is also a bit of down-side, especially for the lancer. A SRI will move the powerband higher meaning you'd have to wait more rpm to hit where your engine will be making good/accelerating power. Where this is most apparent is shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. This is because even if you shift at redline(6250 rpm) in 1st gear, you will be stuck under the powerband in 2nd. This example is for a lancer that is equipped with a 5-speed transmission. You're gonna just sit there waiting to hit the powerband at around 4000 rpm. But when you do hit 4000rpm, you will notice a better improvement all the way to redline! The upper half of the RPM range benefits from the easier breathing SRI.
* A SRI is a short length of pipe with the MAS and cone filter attached designed to replace the stock airbox
* Sucks in hot engine bay air (Lose power!)
* Better top-end power
* Better throttle response
* Poorer low to mid-range torque
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#5
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Did you reset the ECU after the install?
I have been messing with new intake systems for my 05 GS3--the stock system is pretty good up until about 3K RPM then there is a progressive increase in vacuum in the intake (before the throttle body) depending on where the reading is taken. While some may disagree, any time you change (enlarge) the intake path the AFM is not going to give a true reading to the ECU so you **should** use a fuel computer of some sort.
In the off idle situation the AFM is giving a much lower reading that what the engine is actually seeing (due to the increased pipe area for the aftermarket intake). You are therefore leaning out. Resetting the ECU will bring you back to base fuel maps which are typically fat (the ECU uses O2 sensor feedback to trim (lean) the fuel map over time). This will probably help a bit. The heated intake air does decrease power a bit but not much (roughly 1 hp loss for every 10 degree increase in intake air temp). I am working on some heat-shielding, some true ram air setups and the associated fuel map correction to be used on my GS. I have owned and modified quite a few cars in my time (MKII and MKIII Supras, Ford Taurus SHOs, Buick Grand Nationals, Ford T-Birds, POntiac GP GTPs, etc).
Hope this helps.
I have been messing with new intake systems for my 05 GS3--the stock system is pretty good up until about 3K RPM then there is a progressive increase in vacuum in the intake (before the throttle body) depending on where the reading is taken. While some may disagree, any time you change (enlarge) the intake path the AFM is not going to give a true reading to the ECU so you **should** use a fuel computer of some sort.
In the off idle situation the AFM is giving a much lower reading that what the engine is actually seeing (due to the increased pipe area for the aftermarket intake). You are therefore leaning out. Resetting the ECU will bring you back to base fuel maps which are typically fat (the ECU uses O2 sensor feedback to trim (lean) the fuel map over time). This will probably help a bit. The heated intake air does decrease power a bit but not much (roughly 1 hp loss for every 10 degree increase in intake air temp). I am working on some heat-shielding, some true ram air setups and the associated fuel map correction to be used on my GS. I have owned and modified quite a few cars in my time (MKII and MKIII Supras, Ford Taurus SHOs, Buick Grand Nationals, Ford T-Birds, POntiac GP GTPs, etc).
Hope this helps.
#7
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It has nothing to do with any of that. The stock MAF is calibrated to run on the 2.5" diameter piping on the airbox. The weapon R uses a 3" piping, so in essence the MAF is telling the engine you have less air going in the engine because the 3" pipe slows down air velocity. Even though the air going in the engine is the same, the sensor does not see that. The engine will run lean because of this. So that lean spot is causing the bogging down.
As far as I know, only the injen intake uses 2.5" piping to compensate for this problem. The other way you can solve the problem is to get a SAFC or a FIC to tell the ecu to compensate for the 3" piping.
As far as I know, only the injen intake uses 2.5" piping to compensate for this problem. The other way you can solve the problem is to get a SAFC or a FIC to tell the ecu to compensate for the 3" piping.
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#8
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If this helps, I've had that intake. What jeff said is completly right, but the way I resolved it is clean the maf sensor with the maf cleaner (let it air dry), and then clean the inner throttle (just the inner edge where u can get to it) then I unplugged the negative from the battery for like an hour. After all that was done, the check engine went away and the was running ok again. I ended up buying the srt intake a few months after, which gave me no problems. Hope it helps your situation.
#9
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since you have twice ignored me if you actually own a gs i would assume you don't ......so IF you actually owned a GS and not just trolled in EVERY section on the forums (yeah ALMOST everyone- SC400/300, IS-F, LS400, SC430, IS, GS,and LFA) post whoring as you go,you would know Joe Z makes NOTHING for our 2nd gen gs NOR does K&N for the gs300 besides a drop in filter. the injen I'm not 100% on, i know they make one for the gs430 but not sure bout the gs300
Last edited by sakataj; 03-26-11 at 08:08 AM.
#10
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When did I ignore you? Is it a problem if i'm on a public forum and like all the models besides my IS? So what, how do you know where I am, if you're not there too? lol. Anyway, excuse me, I thought that those were made, I know SRT makes one but price may be an issue. I know the weapon R was poorly made for the IS and a member had that same problem after the install and it was because of the craftsmanship, no heatshield etc. He went back to stock.
#11
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It has nothing to do with any of that. The stock MAF is calibrated to run on the 2.5" diameter piping on the airbox. The weapon R uses a 3" piping, so in essence the MAF is telling the engine you have less air going in the engine because the 3" pipe slows down air velocity. Even though the air going in the engine is the same, the sensor does not see that. The engine will run lean because of this. So that lean spot is causing the bogging down.
i know cause i looked at you awhile ago cause i was trying to figure out if you were a new gs member or just trolling EVERY section to build posts....i mean every place i went, you were there with those silly posts. yeah i may have a uber high post count but VERY few of mine are just jibberish to build a post count....
i dont have a issue where you go (nor should i) by all means we all some sort of enthusiast but since i didn't get a answer asking politely i figured i would poke the bear till i did get a answer.....and i got it
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Last edited by sakataj; 03-26-11 at 09:57 AM.
#13
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could his drive by wire also be causing some of this?
when i asked twice and you never answered....
i know cause i looked at you awhile ago cause i was trying to figure out if you were a new gs member or just trolling EVERY section to build posts....i mean every place i went, you were there with those silly posts. yeah i may have a uber high post count but VERY few of mine are just jibberish to build a post count....
i dont have a issue where you go (nor should i) by all means we all some sort of enthusiast but since i didn't get a answer asking politely i figured i would poke the bear till i did get a answer.....and i got it![Cool](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
when i asked twice and you never answered....
i know cause i looked at you awhile ago cause i was trying to figure out if you were a new gs member or just trolling EVERY section to build posts....i mean every place i went, you were there with those silly posts. yeah i may have a uber high post count but VERY few of mine are just jibberish to build a post count....
i dont have a issue where you go (nor should i) by all means we all some sort of enthusiast but since i didn't get a answer asking politely i figured i would poke the bear till i did get a answer.....and i got it
![Cool](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
lol is this ClubGS or Clublexus?? So just because I have a IS, i'm limited to stay in one place? I didn't know there were rules to posting in different sections...lol. If I didn't answer it's most likely that I didn't see your post, that why there is a PM button. You must own the GS section or the whole forum. Have a good day.
#14
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lol is this ClubGS or Clublexus?? So just because I have a IS, i'm limited to stay in one place? I didn't know there were rules to posting in different sections...lol. If I didn't answer it's most likely that I didn't see your post, that why there is a PM button. You must own the GS section or the whole forum. Have a good day.
Wanna talk more? Let's go to PM n get this thread back on track
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[QUOTE=DeanGS;6255110]Did you reset the ECU after the install?
I have been messing with new intake systems for my 05 GS3--the stock system is pretty good up until about 3K RPM then there is a progressive increase in vacuum in the intake (before the throttle body) depending on where the reading is taken. While some may disagree, any time you change (enlarge) the intake path the AFM is not going to give a true reading to the ECU so you **should** use a fuel computer of some sort.
I have been messing with new intake systems for my 05 GS3--the stock system is pretty good up until about 3K RPM then there is a progressive increase in vacuum in the intake (before the throttle body) depending on where the reading is taken. While some may disagree, any time you change (enlarge) the intake path the AFM is not going to give a true reading to the ECU so you **should** use a fuel computer of some sort.