r154 half-shafts, f custom d-shafts
05-24-11, 10:55 PM
#1
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r154 half-shafts, f custom d-shafts
So, has anyone tried or looked up half shaft lengths that would fit the r154 and our diffs? I'd like to piece together two half shafts for oem fee when I do my 2j swap on my 99... I bought a 95 aristo clip and got the drive shaft if that matters... but, I need to go manual, I hate this auto ****.
Also, comin from someone who drives the **** out of their car, trust me on this question... oem dampering ftw
Also, comin from someone who drives the **** out of their car, trust me on this question... oem dampering ftw
05-25-11, 05:32 AM
#2
Your saying half shafts, but your talking about the front half of the drive shaft correct? Not the rear axles/half shafts?
The auto's have a yoke that bolts onto the isolator, the r154 is a splined slip yoke. There is no front half that will mate to the rear half in oem form.
You will have to make something custom and you will loose the front isolator no matter what. Most people just use the a full one peice custom shaft, takes out all the slop and eliminate the guibos and center bearings from ever going bad. On the down side is that double guibo isolators and a 2 piece shaft do make for a smoother feel and less possible vibration in the driveline.
I'm using a 1 piece 3" aluminum shaft on my manual swap, but the car isn't running quite yet, so I don't know how smooth is or isn't. A couple more weeks and I should have the motor finished, got to get some parts powder coated first so I can reinstall them.
The auto's have a yoke that bolts onto the isolator, the r154 is a splined slip yoke. There is no front half that will mate to the rear half in oem form.
You will have to make something custom and you will loose the front isolator no matter what. Most people just use the a full one peice custom shaft, takes out all the slop and eliminate the guibos and center bearings from ever going bad. On the down side is that double guibo isolators and a 2 piece shaft do make for a smoother feel and less possible vibration in the driveline.
I'm using a 1 piece 3" aluminum shaft on my manual swap, but the car isn't running quite yet, so I don't know how smooth is or isn't. A couple more weeks and I should have the motor finished, got to get some parts powder coated first so I can reinstall them.
05-25-11, 07:38 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
Im talking about the driveshafts, yes... As for the auto d-shaft, I know the splines are different. However, on my 240 in the past, I was able to use the auto rear half, and a manual front half. Im thinking of some combination like that, from different cars, more specifically chasers and/or mkII's. even diff length makes a difference, so Im down for any info or measurements. Ive been researching this manual conversion for months, again fu*k 1 piece driveshafts, they'll break everything else when you drift.
05-25-11, 08:53 AM
#5
Well unfortunately there is no front half that will just fit. SC, Supra 3/4, etc.. Your best be would be to just have your front half of the gs shaft extended and re-welded with the 154 slip yoke on it. You'll still loose the front guibo, but retain the center bearing and rear guibo.
I don't see why this route is a big deal. Driveshaft mods/repairs are cheap as dirt, especially if you r154 comes with a cut off slip yoke still inserted that you can take to the shop and save about $50 on the part.
And for power the r154's can be close to or more than 20 years old now when you get them. So the unknown abuse in it's life, lack of maintenance, and power level of the previous car it came from can all have massive impact on how much it will hold especially when someone just slaps it on their car and jambs like 28psi of boost through it and drifts or drags with it.. Not to say a solid 1pc isn't harsh on it, but there are way more reasons that the r154 has reported power levels all over the map.
I don't see why this route is a big deal. Driveshaft mods/repairs are cheap as dirt, especially if you r154 comes with a cut off slip yoke still inserted that you can take to the shop and save about $50 on the part.
And for power the r154's can be close to or more than 20 years old now when you get them. So the unknown abuse in it's life, lack of maintenance, and power level of the previous car it came from can all have massive impact on how much it will hold especially when someone just slaps it on their car and jambs like 28psi of boost through it and drifts or drags with it.. Not to say a solid 1pc isn't harsh on it, but there are way more reasons that the r154 has reported power levels all over the map.
05-26-11, 10:46 AM
#6
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Thread Starter
I don't see why this route is a big deal. Driveshaft mods/repairs are cheap as dirt, especially if you r154 comes with a cut off slip yoke still inserted that you can take to the shop and save about $50 on the part.
And for power the r154's can be close to or more than 20 years old now when you get them. So the unknown abuse in it's life, lack of maintenance, and power level of the previous car it came from can all have massive impact on how much it will hold especially when someone just slaps it on their car and jambs like 28psi of boost through it and drifts or drags with it.. Not to say a solid 1pc isn't harsh on it, but there are way more reasons that the r154 has reported power levels all over the map.
And for power the r154's can be close to or more than 20 years old now when you get them. So the unknown abuse in it's life, lack of maintenance, and power level of the previous car it came from can all have massive impact on how much it will hold especially when someone just slaps it on their car and jambs like 28psi of boost through it and drifts or drags with it.. Not to say a solid 1pc isn't harsh on it, but there are way more reasons that the r154 has reported power levels all over the map.
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