throttle lever sensor help
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throttle lever sensor help
Ok so heres my problem I have a 1998 gs400 I was driving and the acceleration seemed to die had.to.floor.it.just to.go 5mph......check engine vsc.lights went on so my.mechanic scaned the car threw the pedal position sensor code......per Lexus my car doesnt have a pps its actually the throttle lever sensor so I repaced it now the car throws the same code with the car off or on thought.it was a faulty part so I.got another one this one is doing the same thing mechanic saying it needs to be.programed.........sound right? Any thoughts? Similar problems? Thanx in advance
#2
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Our cars have something called an Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor. I haven't been able to find the part online, but it does exist in our 400's. It's to the left of intake manifold where the pedal cable hooks onto. Another part to look into is the Throttle Controller Motor. Use a voltmeter to check to see which actually needs to be replaced.
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That's the exact part I.bought but thru Lexus.its not called apps its called the throttle lever sensor......on the.other side.of the intake.manifold is the throttle position sensor
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Also on another note with the new part on I.can't clear the code......I put the.old part back on and all the lights on the dash turn off and I can clear the.code.......untill it decides to do it again lol its not a.constant problem goes away then.comes back
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Ya that's what I'm thinking I know its.one of.the 2 but what I.don't understand.is y it goes straight.into limp mode with.the new part and works fine with.the.old.part.......ever heard of the throttle lever sensor.needing.to be programed?
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I would try to reset the ECU first. I've got the same issue with my 98 300. I'm guessing yours is throwing the same as mine P1121 "Possible Range Problem Detected." If the code will not clear at all, you might want to try giving it a reset. I've seen guys with LS 400's talking about faulty ECU's but I doubt that's what you're dealing with.
What I've done so far: TPS.
What I'm waiting on: Throttle Lever Assembly (Sensor is built in).
Basically, when I first took the car for a spin it was shaking bad when it was in gear and at a stop. Adjusted the throttle cable, and it went away immediately. The strange thing was that the car would then "kick" just a little bit when coming to a stop, like the car didn't know where to shift coming to a stop anymore.
Did a brake upgrade, cross drilled/slotted rotors all the way around. When I was driving it home I got the dreaded "limp mode" issue we've all gotten at some point. When I got up to ~45 MPH, it would be like I hit fuel cut. Next thing I know, check engine and the VSC lights came on, and I had no response unless I floored it.
Check engine was P1120 accelerator position pedal sensor. First thing I tried, because it was the only part that isn't ****ing special order was a TPS. The "kick" is gone, and when I went to drive it after 10 minutes (once the car warmed up), back to limp mode. The code, however, has changed. It is now P1121 possible range problem detected. I've been doing lots of research, and it looks like the next logical spot is the same part you are looking at now.
It's interesting that you say the code "won't clear." Do you mean that you hit "clear data", and it just doesn't go away? Or do you instead mean that you can clear it, but it comes right back? Also, have you tried adjusting the throttle cable/inspecting the TPS as well as the throttle body to make sure they are clean? What else have you tried so far?
To answer your initial question, I have never heard of it needing to be "programmed." Maybe you just need to adjust the throttle cable.
What I've done so far: TPS.
What I'm waiting on: Throttle Lever Assembly (Sensor is built in).
Basically, when I first took the car for a spin it was shaking bad when it was in gear and at a stop. Adjusted the throttle cable, and it went away immediately. The strange thing was that the car would then "kick" just a little bit when coming to a stop, like the car didn't know where to shift coming to a stop anymore.
Did a brake upgrade, cross drilled/slotted rotors all the way around. When I was driving it home I got the dreaded "limp mode" issue we've all gotten at some point. When I got up to ~45 MPH, it would be like I hit fuel cut. Next thing I know, check engine and the VSC lights came on, and I had no response unless I floored it.
Check engine was P1120 accelerator position pedal sensor. First thing I tried, because it was the only part that isn't ****ing special order was a TPS. The "kick" is gone, and when I went to drive it after 10 minutes (once the car warmed up), back to limp mode. The code, however, has changed. It is now P1121 possible range problem detected. I've been doing lots of research, and it looks like the next logical spot is the same part you are looking at now.
It's interesting that you say the code "won't clear." Do you mean that you hit "clear data", and it just doesn't go away? Or do you instead mean that you can clear it, but it comes right back? Also, have you tried adjusting the throttle cable/inspecting the TPS as well as the throttle body to make sure they are clean? What else have you tried so far?
To answer your initial question, I have never heard of it needing to be "programmed." Maybe you just need to adjust the throttle cable.
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I would try to reset the ECU first. I've got the same issue with my 98 300. I'm guessing yours is throwing the same as mine P1121 "Possible Range Problem Detected." If the code will not clear at all, you might want to try giving it a reset. I've seen guys with LS 400's talking about faulty ECU's but I doubt that's what you're dealing with.
What I've done so far: TPS.
What I'm waiting on: Throttle Lever Assembly (Sensor is built in).
Basically, when I first took the car for a spin it was shaking bad when it was in gear and at a stop. Adjusted the throttle cable, and it went away immediately. The strange thing was that the car would then "kick" just a little bit when coming to a stop, like the car didn't know where to shift coming to a stop anymore.
Did a brake upgrade, cross drilled/slotted rotors all the way around. When I was driving it home I got the dreaded "limp mode" issue we've all gotten at some point. When I got up to ~45 MPH, it would be like I hit fuel cut. Next thing I know, check engine and the VSC lights came on, and I had no response unless I floored it.
Check engine was P1120 accelerator position pedal sensor. First thing I tried, because it was the only part that isn't ****ing special order was a TPS. The "kick" is gone, and when I went to drive it after 10 minutes (once the car warmed up), back to limp mode. The code, however, has changed. It is now P1121 possible range problem detected. I've been doing lots of research, and it looks like the next logical spot is the same part you are looking at now.
It's interesting that you say the code "won't clear." Do you mean that you hit "clear data", and it just doesn't go away? Or do you instead mean that you can clear it, but it comes right back? Also, have you tried adjusting the throttle cable/inspecting the TPS as well as the throttle body to make sure they are clean? What else have you tried so far?
To answer your initial question, I have
never heard of it needing to be
"programmed." Maybe you just need to adjust the throttle cable.
What I've done so far: TPS.
What I'm waiting on: Throttle Lever Assembly (Sensor is built in).
Basically, when I first took the car for a spin it was shaking bad when it was in gear and at a stop. Adjusted the throttle cable, and it went away immediately. The strange thing was that the car would then "kick" just a little bit when coming to a stop, like the car didn't know where to shift coming to a stop anymore.
Did a brake upgrade, cross drilled/slotted rotors all the way around. When I was driving it home I got the dreaded "limp mode" issue we've all gotten at some point. When I got up to ~45 MPH, it would be like I hit fuel cut. Next thing I know, check engine and the VSC lights came on, and I had no response unless I floored it.
Check engine was P1120 accelerator position pedal sensor. First thing I tried, because it was the only part that isn't ****ing special order was a TPS. The "kick" is gone, and when I went to drive it after 10 minutes (once the car warmed up), back to limp mode. The code, however, has changed. It is now P1121 possible range problem detected. I've been doing lots of research, and it looks like the next logical spot is the same part you are looking at now.
It's interesting that you say the code "won't clear." Do you mean that you hit "clear data", and it just doesn't go away? Or do you instead mean that you can clear it, but it comes right back? Also, have you tried adjusting the throttle cable/inspecting the TPS as well as the throttle body to make sure they are clean? What else have you tried so far?
To answer your initial question, I have
never heard of it needing to be
"programmed." Maybe you just need to adjust the throttle cable.
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