starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Alright so I need to do my engine mounts. I put car in drive and "brake boosted" it and stomped on the brake and my entire engine shifts badly. I will post a video later.

I've done almost all the work on my car on my own being that it rarely gets driven and I've done complete motor swaps (5spd to auto) so I am a bit mechanically inclined.

I don't have a engine hoist or a lift to lift the motor so I am resorting to doing this sort of half assed. I got a quote from a shop for $300 without parts.

If that's my last resort then I will do this. I just need to lift the motor with a bit if clearance one side at a time, just a but confused on how to do this. I was thinking about using a two by four making a "X" and using that to support the pan. I'll be dropping the pan too in order to redo the oil pan fipv.

pizdets17

iTrader: (4)

if youre even thinking about raising via oil pan, put your tools down, and get somebody else to do it. I hope this was a joke

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

I've jacked up the engine by using the oil pan as the jacking point. No problems here, but I did use a 2x4 to spread the load across the pan.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

Its gonna put alot of pressure on the oil pan gasket and thats about it

Sonic_RC

iTrader: (15)

+1........

ntran18

iTrader: (27)

I am not suggest for or against, but I noticed that engines are usually shipped/stored on crates sitting on the oil pan.

LALEX1

iTrader: (22)

I've done this as well many times with different cars. Works fine.

neojungle1

iTrader: (8)

place it under the transfer case with piece of wood... your asking for trouble with the oil pan which can bend or crack or just do one side at time by placing the jack on the bracket to the mount it self ,if it brokeing you going to left the motor and all it needed to remove the bolts place the new one on..bam on to the next one that a 3 to 4 hr job if you dont know what your doing

Chin

iTrader: (34)

It's done all the time by tons of mechanics. A wood block between the jack and the pan is a must. Also keep in mind you are not transferring the full weight of the engine onto the jack, just enough to raise the block slightly to access the engine mounts/bolts.

AKS14

If you use wood and go slow you should be fine, did this on my old daily driver to replace worn mounts without a problen, granted that pan was cast aluminum it still should not be a problem with the GS stamped steel pan

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

In the SC section everyone who has done the engine mounts would suggest it to you. There's no stress on the pan as long as you do it slow with a wooden block between the jack and the oil pan. I recently did it on my SC cause my engine mounts were literally split in half in the drivers side and I wouldn't pay any shop $600 to do it when it's that simple and easy. I was able to change everything in like 2 hrs minimum. Although watch which parts are being pulled in the engine bay as you're raising the engine, like on mine I didn't check it initially and I managed to rip my intake coupler, given it's a 17 year old rubber coupler and it was really crunchy and dry already but it's like $60 OEM. But other than that my car have been driving like a champ ever since.

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

Thanks everyone for your reply. I might not be a certified mechanic but I can do better work than alot of them. This is a hobby of mine and I love doing it. I've done alot of work myself and taken my car to a shop.

I want to do one mount at a time. I dont plan on removing both.

I'm interested to see how I can jack the mounts up by the brackets. Anyone have any pictures of this?

I'm kind of scared to move the transfer case as I don't want to disrubt the rear main seal in any way.

I'm going to try a towel under a piece of thick plywood the size of the entire oil pan. Drop the front subframe a bit and see what happens.

Anyone have pics of where to jack it up by the mounts?

Thanks!!!

GSteg

iTrader: (15)

Why would you need to drop the subframe, even a bit. I was able to do it without having to do that. Just raise up the engine enough to pull the mount off.

Also, make sure you remove the nuts for the transmission mount otherwise you're going to pull apart the rubber. T

starfyrels

iTrader: (2)

I read in another thread that you would have to drop the subframe out front just a little bit in order to give yourself some more clearance to work with. Again I haven't put myself under my car to work on the mounts yet so maybe I will see something different.

I will drop the transmission just a bit, I wont take the bolts off though -- I'm not sure if thats a smart idea as I dont want to damage or move the transmission at all from the rear main seal.

I'm a bit weary of doing this -- but I like challenging ****. I just dont want my motor falling out of the car or on top of me. \o/

OG Dada

iTrader: (10)

You can't do it one at a time, at least you can do is loosen both nuts from below the subframe. If you leave it bolted on one side then raise it the engine is gonna sit sideways and there's gonna be more stress to whatever's attached on the raised side. It's a pretty tight space you're gonna be working on, and you gotta be real creative on how to access the upper nuts of the engine mount.