Getting ready to pull my engine, few questions
11-16-11, 01:48 PM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Getting ready to pull my engine, few questions
Hey guys, I'm getting ready to pull my motor in my GS3 to start my turbo build. I have a few questions
1). How do I remove the top bolt on the driveshaft? (trans side)
2). My engine doesn't have the hook in the front, can I just put a bolt in the chain and bolt it to the block?
1). How do I remove the top bolt on the driveshaft? (trans side)
2). My engine doesn't have the hook in the front, can I just put a bolt in the chain and bolt it to the block?
11-16-11, 03:15 PM
#3
If i'm correct there is 3 bolts on the driveshaft thats connected to the transmission. If you dont have any clearance for the top bolt, just throw the car into neutral and just turn the wheels so that the driveshift spins then you'll have room to take if off.
11-16-11, 04:45 PM
#4
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Mine has 6.
11-16-11, 06:27 PM
#6
There are 3 from the tranny yoke into the guibo/isolator and then 3 to the driveshaft. But you only need to get 3 out of either side to get it off the car, once one side is off the driveshaft has a slip joint and you can slide it back some to pull it down and out.
11-16-11, 06:33 PM
#7
When you are ready to pull the motor, if the car is on a lift just take the bolts off the bottom of the motor mounts under the car recessed in the crossmember, if your doing it on the ground it may be easier to take the 4 bolts off each of the two aluminum brackets on the engine block that mounts are attached to. The motor mounts are tilted inward to motor, so if you just take the nuts of the top of them you may destroy the threads or tear the rubber mounts in half pulling up on the engine. If your getting new mounts it's not as big of a concern.
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11-16-11, 06:56 PM
#8
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Yeah it's no problem, there are two threaded holes in the front passenger side of the head, these are where the front hook goes and you can put a chain and bolt right there no issue. They are 12mmx1.25 I believe, Some of the bolts holding on the accessories like the bracket supporting the power steering pump are the same thread size so you grab a bolt from there to use.
Yeah just jack up the rear wheels off the ground and put it in neutral so you can spin the driveshaft.
There are 3 from the tranny yoke into the guibo/isolator and then 3 to the driveshaft. But you only need to get 3 out of either side to get it off the car, once one side is off the driveshaft has a slip joint and you can slide it back some to pull it down and out.
Yeah just jack up the rear wheels off the ground and put it in neutral so you can spin the driveshaft.
There are 3 from the tranny yoke into the guibo/isolator and then 3 to the driveshaft. But you only need to get 3 out of either side to get it off the car, once one side is off the driveshaft has a slip joint and you can slide it back some to pull it down and out.
When you are ready to pull the motor, if the car is on a lift just take the bolts off the bottom of the motor mounts under the car recessed in the crossmember, if your doing it on the ground it may be easier to take the 4 bolts off each of the two aluminum brackets on the engine block that mounts are attached to. The motor mounts are tilted inward to motor, so if you just take the nuts of the top of them you may destroy the threads or tear the rubber mounts in half pulling up on the engine. If your getting new mounts it's not as big of a concern.
Hmm, I'll have to get a better look at it tomorrow. So you're saying if I remove 3 bolts on one side, it'll slide out?
11-16-11, 07:08 PM
#9
You'll need to take the heat sheilds off covering the driveshaft and take the two bolts out of the center carrier bear as well. But yes the guibo can stay on the shaft or the trans whichever. But once you have the car in neutral you can take all 6 out easily if you need too.
Last edited by 99 GS3; 11-16-11 at 07:14 PM.
11-17-11, 01:45 PM
#10
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Alright, the trans only needs to have 3 removed. As far as the harness for the motor, should i remove the motor with the harness still connected? (unplug the harness from the ecu) or not? Which would be easier?
11-17-11, 02:49 PM
#11
Are you doing a GE turbo build or a GTE swap?
I also have been able to remove the AC Compressor and strap it over to the side, and pull the motor, so that you don't have to break the freon lines loose, and vacuum/charge later. The GE AC compressor will work fine on the GTE. And if your AC is working good now I would stick with it, not knowing the condition of the GTE comp or what trash has made inside with cut lines and sitting around/shipped around. If in fact your going GTE.
Last edited by 99 GS3; 11-17-11 at 11:03 PM.
11-17-11, 03:47 PM
#12
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Pulling the engine with the harness is easy. Just unplug it from the ecu, disconnect the igniter, pull the little diagnostic box loose off the clips and your good to go. Remove all the battery cables to the starter, alternator, and the grounds to the block and trans. Then there are the PS/AC/Trans Cooler lines to disconnect and the motor will pull right out. all the other stuff under the hood is hooked to the body side of the harness which will stay in the ecu box. You should be able to get the motor out in an hour if the driveshaft and exhaust is already handled prior.
Are you doing a GE turbo build or a GTE swap?
I also have been able to remove the AC Compressor and strap it over to the side, and pull the motor, so that you don't have to break the freon lines loose, and vacuum/charge later. The GE AC compressor will work fine on the GE. And if your AC is working good now I would stick with it, not knowing the condition of the GTE comp or what trash has made inside with cut lines and sitting around/shipped around. If in fact your going GTE.
Are you doing a GE turbo build or a GTE swap?
I also have been able to remove the AC Compressor and strap it over to the side, and pull the motor, so that you don't have to break the freon lines loose, and vacuum/charge later. The GE AC compressor will work fine on the GE. And if your AC is working good now I would stick with it, not knowing the condition of the GTE comp or what trash has made inside with cut lines and sitting around/shipped around. If in fact your going GTE.
11-17-11, 07:06 PM
#14
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Somethings may be simple to some, and not to others. I'm mechanically inclined, and I can work on my own car. I feel confident with going turbo, but I've never pulled a motor myself before. I've done my homework and I feel I am fine. Thanks for your concern though 