Battery Light and Electrical System Issue.....PLEASE HELP
01-16-12, 06:58 PM
#1
Lead Lap
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Battery Light and Electrical System Issue.....PLEASE HELP
So I have a 2001 GS300. While I was driving back to the bay area from SoCal (500 miles) The battery light flickered on and off. But the car made it back to the bay area and the light did not stay on.
I drove around town and everything was fine.....for another 200 miles. Car starts up fine and everything. But when I go on the freeway, the battery light comes on. When I exit, it turns off.
Last night on the freeway, the light came on, along with all other dash lights. Car still drove fine until I exited.....the car loss all power and died. I replaced the battery and it was up and running again.
I took the car to AutoZone to get Battery/Electrical system tested..........ALL GOOD.
Drove around town for 10 miles. Hopped on the freeway and the batt light came back on. Exited an it turned off. Hopped back on freeway and Batt light back on. WTF????!!!
Any suggestions or tips. Common problem?
Thanks in advance.
I drove around town and everything was fine.....for another 200 miles. Car starts up fine and everything. But when I go on the freeway, the battery light comes on. When I exit, it turns off.
Last night on the freeway, the light came on, along with all other dash lights. Car still drove fine until I exited.....the car loss all power and died. I replaced the battery and it was up and running again.
I took the car to AutoZone to get Battery/Electrical system tested..........ALL GOOD.
Drove around town for 10 miles. Hopped on the freeway and the batt light came back on. Exited an it turned off. Hopped back on freeway and Batt light back on. WTF????!!!
Any suggestions or tips. Common problem?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by BLK98GS3; 01-16-12 at 06:59 PM. Reason: info
01-17-12, 01:10 AM
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Lead Lap
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The problem occurred with my old battery. I replaced it with a BRAND NEW battery and same problem occurred. New battery hasnt died on me yet, but the batt light turns on during highway speed.
01-17-12, 01:12 AM
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Lead Lap
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Terminal is tight. Kind of old and corroded but I cleaned it as best as I can. Still the batt light came on.
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01-17-12, 08:58 AM
#9
Check the car under load. Run the heat on high with the high beams on and check the charging voltage on the battery. Also I would check the actual ground from the battery to the car. I had a cable go back on my old IS300, pretty much same as the GS300.
01-17-12, 11:15 AM
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Not exactly an expert opinion. They may be right, but you could end up running around in needless circles if you simply take their word as fact.
IF the battery is good (and it seems to be a known factor, since you said you replaced it) than your problem is likely either alternator or connections.
First and foremost, if your terminals were corroded, clean them thoroughly. "The best you could" implies that you didn't do a thorough job. Use baking soda and water to dissolve any built up corrosion (an old toothbrush can help get in the tight spots) then get a terminal brush or cleaner if you don't have one, and work those contact surfaces down to clean, shiny metal. Also, check under the cables' insulation for corrosion. This can can cause enough resistance to affect charging.
If you can't clean the terminals thoroughly, if the terminals are too loose or corroded away to make good, tight contact, or if there's any sign of corrosion under the insulation, replace the cables.
Check the "hot" cable to the alternator, too, and be sure it is undamaged and the connection is tight.
If the problem persists after doing all of this, have the charging system (including the alternator) checked by a qualified expert (not a kid who's working for little more than minimum wage.) You may have to pay to have it done, but sometimes it's worth the price to have sound diagnosis. It can save you a lot of trouble in the long run. A qualified independent mechanic, who works on Lexus on a regular basis, or maybe a local alternator shop would be good sources to try.
IF the battery is good (and it seems to be a known factor, since you said you replaced it) than your problem is likely either alternator or connections.
First and foremost, if your terminals were corroded, clean them thoroughly. "The best you could" implies that you didn't do a thorough job. Use baking soda and water to dissolve any built up corrosion (an old toothbrush can help get in the tight spots) then get a terminal brush or cleaner if you don't have one, and work those contact surfaces down to clean, shiny metal. Also, check under the cables' insulation for corrosion. This can can cause enough resistance to affect charging.
If you can't clean the terminals thoroughly, if the terminals are too loose or corroded away to make good, tight contact, or if there's any sign of corrosion under the insulation, replace the cables.
Check the "hot" cable to the alternator, too, and be sure it is undamaged and the connection is tight.
If the problem persists after doing all of this, have the charging system (including the alternator) checked by a qualified expert (not a kid who's working for little more than minimum wage.) You may have to pay to have it done, but sometimes it's worth the price to have sound diagnosis. It can save you a lot of trouble in the long run. A qualified independent mechanic, who works on Lexus on a regular basis, or maybe a local alternator shop would be good sources to try.
01-17-12, 01:21 PM
#12
Not exactly an expert opinion. They may be right, but you could end up running around in needless circles if you simply take their word as fact.
IF the battery is good (and it seems to be a known factor, since you said you replaced it) than your problem is likely either alternator or connections.
First and foremost, if your terminals were corroded, clean them thoroughly. "The best you could" implies that you didn't do a thorough job. Use baking soda and water to dissolve any built up corrosion (an old toothbrush can help get in the tight spots) then get a terminal brush or cleaner if you don't have one, and work those contact surfaces down to clean, shiny metal. Also, check under the cables' insulation for corrosion. This can can cause enough resistance to affect charging.
If you can't clean the terminals thoroughly, if the terminals are too loose or corroded away to make good, tight contact, or if there's any sign of corrosion under the insulation, replace the cables.
Check the "hot" cable to the alternator, too, and be sure it is undamaged and the connection is tight.
If the problem persists after doing all of this, have the charging system (including the alternator) checked by a qualified expert (not a kid who's working for little more than minimum wage.) You may have to pay to have it done, but sometimes it's worth the price to have sound diagnosis. It can save you a lot of trouble in the long run. A qualified independent mechanic, who works on Lexus on a regular basis, or maybe a local alternator shop would be good sources to try.
IF the battery is good (and it seems to be a known factor, since you said you replaced it) than your problem is likely either alternator or connections.
First and foremost, if your terminals were corroded, clean them thoroughly. "The best you could" implies that you didn't do a thorough job. Use baking soda and water to dissolve any built up corrosion (an old toothbrush can help get in the tight spots) then get a terminal brush or cleaner if you don't have one, and work those contact surfaces down to clean, shiny metal. Also, check under the cables' insulation for corrosion. This can can cause enough resistance to affect charging.
If you can't clean the terminals thoroughly, if the terminals are too loose or corroded away to make good, tight contact, or if there's any sign of corrosion under the insulation, replace the cables.
Check the "hot" cable to the alternator, too, and be sure it is undamaged and the connection is tight.
If the problem persists after doing all of this, have the charging system (including the alternator) checked by a qualified expert (not a kid who's working for little more than minimum wage.) You may have to pay to have it done, but sometimes it's worth the price to have sound diagnosis. It can save you a lot of trouble in the long run. A qualified independent mechanic, who works on Lexus on a regular basis, or maybe a local alternator shop would be good sources to try.
01-17-12, 01:23 PM
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Lead Lap
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Alright, let me replace my positive terminal.........then re-test the alternator at another place.
This morning I started the car. It fired right up with no hesitation, but he battery light stayed on. While I was driving around town, usually it was on highway speeds, now its local speed too.
This morning I started the car. It fired right up with no hesitation, but he battery light stayed on. While I was driving around town, usually it was on highway speeds, now its local speed too.
01-17-12, 07:00 PM
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Lead Lap
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OMG.....So I replaced the positive terminal since it was old w lots of corrosion. I took the car to Kragen instead this time, the guy told me a diode in my alternator was bad. So I bought a new alt w/ a new belt. I slapped in the alternator and went back to Kragen. Another dude checked the system and said that the new alternator is still reading low 13.6 to 13.7.
I asked him to check my old alternator on their bench tester.....and guess what???! it was good. So I am gonna go back tomorrow and complain to the manager.
ON the other hand, i went back to autozone....LOL. and they said my new system is good. but then again, they said my old system was good. I saw 13.8 on their meter.
I drove on the highway to see if the light came on......but it didnt.
I am going to have my mechanic friend check the system tomorrow and see what the F is going on.
I asked him to check my old alternator on their bench tester.....and guess what???! it was good. So I am gonna go back tomorrow and complain to the manager.
ON the other hand, i went back to autozone....LOL. and they said my new system is good. but then again, they said my old system was good. I saw 13.8 on their meter.
I drove on the highway to see if the light came on......but it didnt.
I am going to have my mechanic friend check the system tomorrow and see what the F is going on.
01-17-12, 08:42 PM
#15
OMG.....So I replaced the positive terminal since it was old w lots of corrosion. I took the car to Kragen instead this time, the guy told me a diode in my alternator was bad. So I bought a new alt w/ a new belt. I slapped in the alternator and went back to Kragen. Another dude checked the system and said that the new alternator is still reading low 13.6 to 13.7.
I asked him to check my old alternator on their bench tester.....and guess what???! it was good. So I am gonna go back tomorrow and complain to the manager.
ON the other hand, i went back to autozone....LOL. and they said my new system is good. but then again, they said my old system was good. I saw 13.8 on their meter.
I drove on the highway to see if the light came on......but it didnt.
I am going to have my mechanic friend check the system tomorrow and see what the F is going on.
I asked him to check my old alternator on their bench tester.....and guess what???! it was good. So I am gonna go back tomorrow and complain to the manager.
ON the other hand, i went back to autozone....LOL. and they said my new system is good. but then again, they said my old system was good. I saw 13.8 on their meter.
I drove on the highway to see if the light came on......but it didnt.
I am going to have my mechanic friend check the system tomorrow and see what the F is going on.
HAHAHAHA!