GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

Lifespan of Lower Ball Joints

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Old 02-26-12 | 05:57 PM
  #16  
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I'll be doing a write up sometime soon, when I bought my car I replaced alot of things on it. Now I feel like second guessing everything is driving me insane.

So I'm going to be doing ball joints, control arms, bushings, steering rack, rear arms, diff bushings, rear frame bushings, etc etc..

Will post alot of pics and everything when I'm done.
Old 02-26-12 | 06:16 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by GS300noob
is it ok to replace just one side of the lower ball joint ? or is it best to do both sides at the same time? do i need an alignment after its replaced ?
I asked the same question and my mechanic said since the alignment adjustments are not touched.. then you most likely don't need one but to be safe nothing got knocked out of place... it'll be good to do so.
Old 02-26-12 | 06:45 PM
  #18  
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thanks '99 GS3 and " istundra , i'm gonna get both sides done in a couple of weeks. my car has 195K miles and i just got it used so i'm not sure when the last time ( if ever ) they were changed.
Old 02-27-12 | 09:42 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 99 GS3
Well Beck doesn't manufacture Ball Joints they use various vendors to supply the product so you never know what you will get. I've seen plenty of BA stuff come in two boxes and have totally different brands and finishes on the same part number.. You likely bought the BA because they were cheap, and there is a reason they are, because their business is driven on price and volume, not product design.

So for the viewers out there don't base all aftermarket options out there on a crap company that don't actually make or at least design their own products.
Thanks for the info on B/A, won't be touching their stuff again.
Old 02-27-12 | 09:57 PM
  #20  
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Default These ***** Joint things are getting on my nerves

I replaced the lower ***** OEM about three months ago. Just past couple days the clunking resurfaced. Louder then what I have heard before. I took the car the local garage where I had the LBJ replaced. He said it should be OK. Should I be concern folks. My family is riding in this car. I replaced the original LBJ at 95K and it is now exactly at 98K. New Struts, OEM caster/trailing arm. I can't remember where I read it, But it does said with the poly urethane bushing in the caster/trailing arms, its can help ease the load on the LBJs. Is this correct? thanks all. The funny thing is that, the clunking resurfaced where it was starting to rain and the temperature was quite difference an hour earlier. The temp different in socal can be between 65 to 50 in a matter of hour or even less. Can't be the thermal shocked. Anyway I haven't heard the clunking lately.

Last edited by GS714; 02-28-12 at 05:24 PM. Reason: add
Old 02-27-12 | 10:34 PM
  #21  
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dealer oem only for me .........just saying
Old 02-28-12 | 08:44 AM
  #22  
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FWIW, I've been one of the lucky ones. I've got 150K on mine, had them checked about 5 months ago when the car was in for a tranny flush, and they got a clean bill of health. I'm completely un-modded though, and always have been, I'm on 17" oem wheels...


No funny noises or vibration on mine either, and I've never had the "shakes" at highway speed with this car either, very smooth all the way to 100 mph,

When the time comes though, I'll most likely do the LBJ's myself.
Old 02-28-12 | 09:09 AM
  #23  
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I would say change it ASAP incase. Safe than sorry.
Old 02-28-12 | 10:18 AM
  #24  
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I put on the left BJ on mine (waiting for some decent weather to do the right) and got Moog joints (on Amazon for around $54 each shipped) and Moog uses 3 Fives (japan company) for the actual joint. They probably have the arm cast and then assemble it.

Wouldn't be surprised if 3 Fives is the OEM supplier for Lexus.
Old 02-28-12 | 12:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by RamAirRckt
I put on the left BJ on mine (waiting for some decent weather to do the right) and got Moog joints (on Amazon for around $54 each shipped) and Moog uses 3 Fives (japan company) for the actual joint. They probably have the arm cast and then assemble it.

Wouldn't be surprised if 3 Fives is the OEM supplier for Lexus.
God I hope not!!!!!!!!!!! I have Moog lbj's. I don't want anything associated with the faulty/quality design of the OEM lbj's.
Old 02-28-12 | 12:31 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 99 GS3
Well Beck doesn't manufacture Ball Joints they use various vendors to supply the product so you never know what you will get. I've seen plenty of BA stuff come in two boxes and have totally different brands and finishes on the same part number.. You likely bought the BA because they were cheap, and there is a reason they are, because their business is driven on price and volume, not product design.

So for the viewers out there don't base all aftermarket options out there on a crap company that don't actually make or at least design their own products.
I installed beck arnley LBJ's back in November of last year and 5k miles later my car is down again because of the LBJ. I also have me wheel bearings going out so it has been parked for the last month and will be until after we close on our house.
I will be going with OEM bearings and Moog LBJ's
Old 02-28-12 | 12:35 PM
  #27  
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Mine where changed about 40k ago Ive been seeing all these horror stories of people snapping them and I drive way to crazy to not F something up if that broke....I feel better safe than sorry.


Was planning on doing Sway bar links and LBJs
Old 02-28-12 | 12:35 PM
  #28  
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Mine where changed about 40k ago Ive been seeing all these horror stories of people snapping them and I drive way to crazy to not F something up if that broke....I feel better safe than sorry.


Was planning on doing Sway bar links and LBJs
Old 03-03-12 | 05:45 AM
  #29  
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Mine started with popping noises at 135K miles. Replaced them with OEM ones. All good now. Still have to do the caster bushings, sitting on the work bench begging to be installed.
Old 03-03-12 | 07:36 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by sam12345
Here is what I do, pop the ball joint off. Then you can inject grease into the ball joint with a grease needle without hurting the rubber cover by lifting the edge. Once it is nice and lubed you pop it Back in. Do this every 40k
can you identify the specific types of grease? I've read somewhere that you can not mix certain grease as the chemical reaction may destroy itself and be counter productive...i.e... hasten the failure.


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