Tip on installing a Aftermarket Navigation HU on a GS with Nakamichi
#16
Hey Sceptre,
Thanks for the quick response!
In regards to your comment about getting the Metra Harness for $5, is this the one? https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761.../dp/B0002BEQJ8
It seems like its got the same plugs as the harness I was looking at picking up from someone local. I'm only considering it because the guy totaled his GS before getting the chance to install his double din. He's selling me his faceplate, brackets, harness, a custom heatshield, and that harness in the picture I attached, all for $25. He even said he made it specifically for his GS that had Nakamichi. Basically I think he's already done all the work for me? What do you think? Is that supposed to run all the way to the trunk?
Thanks for the quick response!
In regards to your comment about getting the Metra Harness for $5, is this the one? https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761.../dp/B0002BEQJ8
It seems like its got the same plugs as the harness I was looking at picking up from someone local. I'm only considering it because the guy totaled his GS before getting the chance to install his double din. He's selling me his faceplate, brackets, harness, a custom heatshield, and that harness in the picture I attached, all for $25. He even said he made it specifically for his GS that had Nakamichi. Basically I think he's already done all the work for me? What do you think? Is that supposed to run all the way to the trunk?
https://smile.amazon.com/Metra-95-81...+GS+double+din
and the wiring harness and still be cheaper than $25. That wiring harness is also connected to the plug for his specific aftermarket headunit. So unless you get the same HU, you'll need to cut that harness.
I don't know what custom heatshield you are talking about.
No, that wire is not going to go to the trunk. Honestly I don't think that one is for the GS with Nak. That wiring looks way too long. The GS with non Nak has the bypass behind the glovebox, so I suspect that is what this harness is for but I'm not sure.
#17
Racer
iTrader: (14)
Got it. I was only considering the whole package because I figured I would just flip the DD kit and bracket he has. I didn't know they were so cheap. I already have the JDM DD kit myself.
I'll listen to you and just get the Metra harness off Amazon. I had a shop quote me $65 just to do the bypass which seemed a bit excessive, so I thought that buying the harness already completed would save me that fee. I do not trust myself enough to do it myself even with your instructions lol.
The heat shield is just that reflective shield for your front windshield. My old Walmart one has lasted me almost 8 years and is now falling apart. Brand new, the custom fit heat shield is $35. Guy said $15 for the heat shield and another $10 for the wiring stuff.
I'll listen to you and just get the Metra harness off Amazon. I had a shop quote me $65 just to do the bypass which seemed a bit excessive, so I thought that buying the harness already completed would save me that fee. I do not trust myself enough to do it myself even with your instructions lol.
The heat shield is just that reflective shield for your front windshield. My old Walmart one has lasted me almost 8 years and is now falling apart. Brand new, the custom fit heat shield is $35. Guy said $15 for the heat shield and another $10 for the wiring stuff.
#18
Got it. I was only considering the whole package because I figured I would just flip the DD kit and bracket he has. I didn't know they were so cheap. I already have the JDM DD kit myself.
I'll listen to you and just get the Metra harness off Amazon. I had a shop quote me $65 just to do the bypass which seemed a bit excessive, so I thought that buying the harness already completed would save me that fee. I do not trust myself enough to do it myself even with your instructions lol.
The heat shield is just that reflective shield for your front windshield. My old Walmart one has lasted me almost 8 years and is now falling apart. Brand new, the custom fit heat shield is $35. Guy said $15 for the heat shield and another $10 for the wiring stuff.
I'll listen to you and just get the Metra harness off Amazon. I had a shop quote me $65 just to do the bypass which seemed a bit excessive, so I thought that buying the harness already completed would save me that fee. I do not trust myself enough to do it myself even with your instructions lol.
The heat shield is just that reflective shield for your front windshield. My old Walmart one has lasted me almost 8 years and is now falling apart. Brand new, the custom fit heat shield is $35. Guy said $15 for the heat shield and another $10 for the wiring stuff.
Good luck.
#21
This is something I was thinking of doing... replacing the head unit, if only for bluetooth (the tape/plug interface has terrible grounding issues)... yet I'd really miss the cd-changer. Anyway, when I got the car, the factory amp had terrible clipping, and was able to fix the amp with a $10 junk-yard factory amp. I kept the old one, so that I could de-solder the plugs from the factory amp, and build a Metra-type adapter, and still (theoretically) install the old system, without cutting wires. Just never got around to ti.
#22
Hi All,
Coming back here due to a car swap. Old GS was Pioneer, new is Nak. I pulled my entire loom out from trunk to front and laid it all back into the new car and then discovered the amp is in the trunk. I see the notes on how to bridge them there in the trunk, but my loom has the signal wires routing from the front of the car. So that I'm not looping around longer than necessary, should I not just splice my amp outputs directly into the speaker wires there near the OEM amp location in the trunk? -__- I didn't mark what is what so I'll need to re-learn my setup. It's been a while. Thanks for your input.
@MoneyBagz I see your matrix man and printed that thing out, hoping that's all I need to get this done.
Coming back here due to a car swap. Old GS was Pioneer, new is Nak. I pulled my entire loom out from trunk to front and laid it all back into the new car and then discovered the amp is in the trunk. I see the notes on how to bridge them there in the trunk, but my loom has the signal wires routing from the front of the car. So that I'm not looping around longer than necessary, should I not just splice my amp outputs directly into the speaker wires there near the OEM amp location in the trunk? -__- I didn't mark what is what so I'll need to re-learn my setup. It's been a while. Thanks for your input.
@MoneyBagz I see your matrix man and printed that thing out, hoping that's all I need to get this done.
#23
Hi All,
Coming back here due to a car swap. Old GS was Pioneer, new is Nak. I pulled my entire loom out from trunk to front and laid it all back into the new car and then discovered the amp is in the trunk. I see the notes on how to bridge them there in the trunk, but my loom has the signal wires routing from the front of the car. So that I'm not looping around longer than necessary, should I not just splice my amp outputs directly into the speaker wires there near the OEM amp location in the trunk? -__- I didn't mark what is what so I'll need to re-learn my setup. It's been a while. Thanks for your input.
@MoneyBagz I see your matrix man and printed that thing out, hoping that's all I need to get this done.
Coming back here due to a car swap. Old GS was Pioneer, new is Nak. I pulled my entire loom out from trunk to front and laid it all back into the new car and then discovered the amp is in the trunk. I see the notes on how to bridge them there in the trunk, but my loom has the signal wires routing from the front of the car. So that I'm not looping around longer than necessary, should I not just splice my amp outputs directly into the speaker wires there near the OEM amp location in the trunk? -__- I didn't mark what is what so I'll need to re-learn my setup. It's been a while. Thanks for your input.
@MoneyBagz I see your matrix man and printed that thing out, hoping that's all I need to get this done.
#24
Ok I thought so. I know to reduce the run and eliminate as many connections as possible. I’ll tap into the sites there instead. I just seem to have a spare aftermarket connector up front behind the HU. It splits off A) into my multi-amp and also into a 4-wire splice that originally was in the loom behind the glovebox. Need to figure out wth that was for.. then should be good to finalize in the trunk and tap the batt. Thanks! o7
A little discovery and I should have it back online.
A little discovery and I should have it back online.
#25
Ok update.. pulled the run back from the front to the trunk and finished connections. Reconnected head unit up front and now it does not power on at all. I don’t have a multimeter atm but I can get one. Is the cause likely because I had it wired for the pioneer HU and this car had the Nak? As far as I can tell the same metra harness is feeding the red and yellow wires that are supposed to supply power to the HU. Pics soon if needed.
#26
I used the following to get my power and ground wires:
The power wires are on another connector These wires on the left are from the orange stock car harness which I cut/connected to the radio harness wires on the right
1. 12v (ignition) = Grey-------------------------------------------Red (ACC)
2. Constant (Battery) = Blue/yellow------------------Yellow (Battery+) Constant?
3. Illumination – Green-------------------------------Orange/White (Illumination)
This wire on the left was from the large white stock harness, cut/connected to the radio harness on the right.
1. Negative (Ground) = Brown-----------------------------------Black (Ground)
The power wires are on another connector These wires on the left are from the orange stock car harness which I cut/connected to the radio harness wires on the right
1. 12v (ignition) = Grey-------------------------------------------Red (ACC)
2. Constant (Battery) = Blue/yellow------------------Yellow (Battery+) Constant?
3. Illumination – Green-------------------------------Orange/White (Illumination)
This wire on the left was from the large white stock harness, cut/connected to the radio harness on the right.
1. Negative (Ground) = Brown-----------------------------------Black (Ground)
Last edited by jefthim; 05-07-23 at 07:40 PM.
#27
I will be bypassing the amp this weekend and I want to make sure I understand this correctly. Do I need to run the ACC, Constant, and Illumination from the stock amp to the new head unit?
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