GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005) Discussion about the second generation GS300, GS400 and GS430 (1998 - 2005)

'02 2JZGTE VVT-I swap issues... some advice please...

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Old 05-13-12, 09:06 AM
  #16  
99 GS3
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Unfortunately unless you have a friend on here that can vouch for you, you can't post in the classifieds yet since your new. I'd list it on ebay for a reasonable price and it will surely sell.

If you do have a friend to vouch for you on here, then it would get lots of interest in the classifieds in just a few hours, as the srt intake is a hot item around here.
Old 05-13-12, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by static88
This short pipe would eliminate the whole factory intake system, wouldn't it? what would i do about the cone filter on the front end? could i buy one and try to make it fit?
Yes you could eliminate the airbox setup completely and just use this whole pipe with a cone filter. (I only use dry filters these days, such as AEM Dryflow, Fujita F5, Apexi, etc.. I'll never use another oiled type, but that's just my personal preference)

I'm running a 4.5" fujita currently on my single setup and it's a nicely built filter. Here is the 3" version: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FUJITA-Super...8fc464&vxp=mtr

The pipe will fit on the stock twins input between the shock tower and put the filter close to where your airbox is now, I've done a stock GTE swap for someone using this pipe in that manner. Worked fine. The nipple you see in the pic will also allow you to connect the evap hose that is coming off the frame rail directly under your current maf sensor area.

Last edited by 99 GS3; 05-13-12 at 09:17 AM.
Old 05-13-12, 09:30 AM
  #18  
static88
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I'm known pretty well on Ebay, so I should be able to move it relatively quickly. And thanks for all the help on this. I really appreciate it.
Old 05-22-12, 12:55 PM
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static88
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ok guys, i checked the engine out and it seems the problem is with my BOV. I have the HKS SSQV and what I did was disconnect the vacuum hose to the BOV and plugged it and all my idle and response issues disappeared. i think the BOV might be sucking in air as well as blowing excess out... is it supposed to do that? what does that mean? any ideas on how to fix it? also, looking for the HKS boost/ speed cut modules if anyone has them for sale on here, preferably with the Fields harness so i dont have to go playing around with wires. let me know. thanks.
Old 05-22-12, 03:07 PM
  #20  
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Which version of the SSQV is it, there were multiple variations of it, the v3 is supposed to be better, but the older ones had the adjustment screw to fine tune which some people swear by, the 3 did away with that. There have been issues with them leaking in the past, pretty common actually, although there are lots of people using both old and new ones that run them with no issues.

The other thing is that it is a popular counterfeited BOV, and the fake ones look super real and even come in full color boxes with accessories and instructions, but they are cheap knock offs. Unless you bought it directly from an HKS-USA dealer it may be a knock-off.

I had a SSQV at first, but then I went with the Synapse and I have been completely sold, coming off idle is bit more responsive compared to the SSQV, and it just puts out a puff of air not a whistle like a HKS or a Squelch like a TIAL.

Since you are running pull-thru maf then any leakage of the BOV can have big effects on the engine running properly because you may be getting un-metered air in the engine that the maf didn't account for. When running blow-thru maf closer to the TB it's not so drastic if you have a leaky BOV or coupler because the maf hasn't metered the air yet.

In your pics I just saw the stock bypass valve, didn't see the SSQV, but end result is that if the bov is leaking the maf is reading is still wrong regardless if you have the aristo maf or not. On a stock twins install, I'd personally just run the stock by-pass valve and not the SSQV for now.

Last edited by 99 GS3; 05-22-12 at 03:13 PM.
Old 05-22-12, 06:37 PM
  #21  
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I think I have the 3 because it doesn't have the adjustment screw in the back. its not visible because its behind my fog light, directly under the driver's side headlight. i had to actually go under the car and pull the splash guard back to look at it. im almost positive that its the issue, and that its leaking air or sucking excess in or something like that. im just really frustrated cuz i paid for an install thats acting up. is it possible to swap the spring inside for something a bit stronger that can hold the valve closed until it builds up more pressure? cuz the way its set up its blowing off for almost anything when the pedal gets pushed down and released.
Old 05-28-12, 06:00 PM
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Great info!! Was debating on doing this as well just fOr the stock look.
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