Pioneer AVIC-D3 + Infinity 5ch amp + JDM Double DIN kit pics
#1
Pioneer AVIC-D3 + Infinity 5ch amp + JDM Double DIN kit pics
I am sure this has been done to death, but figured I would post this up anyway. Just got all this wrapped up a few days ago (well, mostly) and figured i'd share some pics.
The old install was a Kenwood KVT-910 DVD w/ 2 10's in a huge box mounted in the trunk. The headunit began to fail as did the "brain" for it, so I figured it was time to redo the whole thing.
I was given a Pioneer AVIC-D3 w/ (built in) GPS, + IPOD + Bluetooth + XM Radio
Ended up adding a reverse cam as well.
Only thing I ended up purchasing was the JDM double din kit from Carson; I can't comment on the quality of the metra(?) kit out there but I can say that I am *immensely* happy with the Carson kit. Brackets and faceplate all come in their own bags with toyota OEM part #'s on them. The double din kit does not just snap in to the existing A/C / stereo mount; it replaces it:
Stock bracket vs Double DIN bracket (double din bracket is just laying over stock bracket in this picture)
Headunit mounted:
CD Changer:
Showing Double DIN Kit excellent fitment:
Rear camera view from interior:
Rear camera exterior view:
Amp + sub mounting:
Component info:
AVIC-D3X -
Bluetooth module (mounted behind glove compartment)
XM tuner (mounted below passenger seat)
6 disc changer (mounted in OEM location - it fits, barely!)
Infinity Kappa 255a (50W RMS x 4, 150 W RMS x 1) mounted on trunk front wall
Infinity Kappa perfect 10 - infinite baffle/free air mounted - mounted on TOP of rear deck
The GPS antenna is mounted under the dash and sitting on top of the A/C vent registers - gets perfect signal (so far); the XM antenna is mounted on the rear-deck under the center high mount light (got idea from the LS guys).
Bluetooth mic is mounted where the 3 buttons for homelink control are. Didn't get a picture of this.
All interior speakers are still the stock pioneer (non ML) and cranking away for 10 years so far.
Again, I know this isn't a very exciting post but figured i'd throw it out there anyway.
The old install was a Kenwood KVT-910 DVD w/ 2 10's in a huge box mounted in the trunk. The headunit began to fail as did the "brain" for it, so I figured it was time to redo the whole thing.
I was given a Pioneer AVIC-D3 w/ (built in) GPS, + IPOD + Bluetooth + XM Radio
Ended up adding a reverse cam as well.
Only thing I ended up purchasing was the JDM double din kit from Carson; I can't comment on the quality of the metra(?) kit out there but I can say that I am *immensely* happy with the Carson kit. Brackets and faceplate all come in their own bags with toyota OEM part #'s on them. The double din kit does not just snap in to the existing A/C / stereo mount; it replaces it:
Stock bracket vs Double DIN bracket (double din bracket is just laying over stock bracket in this picture)
Headunit mounted:
CD Changer:
Showing Double DIN Kit excellent fitment:
Rear camera view from interior:
Rear camera exterior view:
Amp + sub mounting:
Component info:
AVIC-D3X -
Bluetooth module (mounted behind glove compartment)
XM tuner (mounted below passenger seat)
6 disc changer (mounted in OEM location - it fits, barely!)
Infinity Kappa 255a (50W RMS x 4, 150 W RMS x 1) mounted on trunk front wall
Infinity Kappa perfect 10 - infinite baffle/free air mounted - mounted on TOP of rear deck
The GPS antenna is mounted under the dash and sitting on top of the A/C vent registers - gets perfect signal (so far); the XM antenna is mounted on the rear-deck under the center high mount light (got idea from the LS guys).
Bluetooth mic is mounted where the 3 buttons for homelink control are. Didn't get a picture of this.
All interior speakers are still the stock pioneer (non ML) and cranking away for 10 years so far.
Again, I know this isn't a very exciting post but figured i'd throw it out there anyway.
#5
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#12
Thanks!
I personally think it sounds good. My friend who did the install said it "lacks punch" but I do disagree. It definitely doesn't compare to the 2x10 box configuration that was in there before, but I didn't expect it to. I have the OEM pioneer deck sub, which was an option, but I really didn't think it would survive the amp. Also, I had the subs from the box sitting around and wanted to re-purpose them. It does lack a little bit of 'punch' but hits fairly deeply. These subs were originally designed to be mounted in free air / IB (as an option) as well, which I guess is harder to find these days with new subs? I have found between tuning the crossover on the AVIC (which is actually MUCH more limited than the crossover on my old Kenwood KVT) I can get a pretty satisfying sound.
I got very lucky in the sense that I thought i was going to have to mount the sub UNDER the rear deck to a piece of MDF as a lot of people have done, but alas, I tried sitting the sub in the factory opening - from the top - and it fit nearly perfectly. I watched it without the rear deck / grill on for a little while to see how much movement the sub generated - decent amount, but not crazy. I then did a little comparison and we found out that sliding the rear deck back over the sub actually fit PERFECTLY and doesn't impede the subwoofer movement.
The sub is screwed to the rear deck, using the subwoofer's factory screw holes. Nothing glamorous or extravagant but highly functional. It also saved about 4" of depth in the trunk, being able to top mount the sub.
As for the amp - I am powering everything from the Infinity 5 channel. It's 50 watts RMS x 4 & 200 watts RMS x 1. The AVIC is something like 22 watts RMS x 4: (quoted from the manual)
Continuous power output is 22 W per channel minimum into 4 ohms, both channels driven 50 to 15 000 Hz with no more than 5% THD.
Best Frequency Response 20-20k Hz
THD at Rated RMS Power 0.05%
THD at Rated RMS Power 0.05%
In the "old configuration" I was only using the Infinity to drive the interior speakers, not the subs, because in sealed configuration the subs played nicely around ~1000W RMS (If I recall properly); whereas the subwoofer is SIGNIFICANTLY downrated when you go into an infinite baffle configuration. 200 watts seems to make it quite happy.
Hope this helps!
#13
Also, the camera is powered by ACC rather than reverse lights. I personally don't like the idea of tapping the reverse lights for the camera power - but that's just me. Also, since the headunit supports viewing the camera at any time (not just when in "R"); to be able to use that feature the camera needs to be constantly powered.
Here's two more pics of the camera cable routing/mount:
#14
Thanks a lot for the effort of posting the images for me
I wonder if this panel is easy to remove as I need to do this on Wednesday. I suspect I'll also need to take off the back plastic material under the bootlid to feed the wiring - hope it doesn't prove too difficult.
Thanks for your help
I wonder if this panel is easy to remove as I need to do this on Wednesday. I suspect I'll also need to take off the back plastic material under the bootlid to feed the wiring - hope it doesn't prove too difficult.
Thanks for your help
#15
Dude, looks nice. U by pass it???? I have a bypassed x920bt. It's not as simple to operate as the D3. Rather than just turning the volume ****, I have to repeatedly press the UP/DOWN keys... Wait till u get XM. and then the B2B and sync up your cell. That thing look nice when all of the audio/video options are lit up in the first menu...
Not really a fan of the camera sticking out. When I did that with my Jeep, the first time I came out to find my camera dangling by a wire. The second, it was gone completely LOL. Good thing it was only $13.
My solution was to drill out one of the bottom holes in your license plate.....and keep on right thru the trunk. Rust proof it, mount a camera through the hole. Mount your license plate back on with the bottom hole drilled out. You have to really look to see the camera. Good thing is, if you take out the cam, you can plug a rubber grommet in the hole and the plate hides it all...
Not really a fan of the camera sticking out. When I did that with my Jeep, the first time I came out to find my camera dangling by a wire. The second, it was gone completely LOL. Good thing it was only $13.
My solution was to drill out one of the bottom holes in your license plate.....and keep on right thru the trunk. Rust proof it, mount a camera through the hole. Mount your license plate back on with the bottom hole drilled out. You have to really look to see the camera. Good thing is, if you take out the cam, you can plug a rubber grommet in the hole and the plate hides it all...
Last edited by jeepandlex; 06-11-12 at 03:20 PM.