Going aristo vvti auto swap in 98 gs3
#16
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Yea. I agree. I spoke with someone at suprastore. He sounded clueless. I've decided to go with swift racing parts. Thy sound super knowledgable and when my swap is done thy are only a 5 hr ride for tuning. Not to apply to hear about the trans so it looks like Itp will be on the list of need to do's. Fortunately thy are 30 minutes from my house so that's no biggie. I'm going to open up my pallet tomorrow but the plastic bags protecting everything look flawless. So I'm hoping for th best. Let you know tomorrow. Thanks fo the heads up about supra store.
#17
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I spoke with moe some more today about my swap and he seems to be super helpful and knowledgable as far as everything we spoke about. If anyone has any shops in N Nj or New York let me know. I did order the fuel rail injectors pressure regulator the duel fuel pump hanger with two walbro 255's and the piping and fittings to hook everything up. If I do the injectors pressure reg and everything else I bought without the fuel management what will happen. I'm going to be running super rich or will my ecu compensate for the upgrades and still run as if I'm stock? My mechanic doesnt do the tuning so moe and I planned on having me bring the car down after all the grunt work is done so he can pipe the Fmic nicely and put in Haltec fuel management. Is Haltec overkill or is it much better then aem as long as you have a good tuner doing the install? I had a Haltek E6K on a 92 Talon Tsi that I had years ago and it was not user friendly at all. I'm hoping that I'm not going to kill the drivability of my car. I want to be able to drive it to work and also take it to the track. What should I go with. Any suggestions. AEM?? I've heard good and bad things about them. Or Haltec.
#19
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What injectors did you get.
With larger injectors and full fuel system if you run the aristo ecu and install the aristo maf in blow-thru the car will idle ok and be driveable out of boost without a tune yet. I have done it and it does work, when the car is running in closed loop it seems the ecu will continue to pull fuel beyond the normal scale it would have to with 440's to try and still run 14~'s and is actually able to do it even with double sized injectors (in blow thru). This however did not work with the maf in the stock pull through location, the car will not run this way with large injectors.
Although in blow thru and no tune it will run crazy rich under boost, at wot, or whenever the ecu goes into open loop. Make sure the first thing you do is install a wideband before you start the car, fast tps changes and boosting will bottom out the afr meter in an instant.
You can do this to run the car to check for fluid/vac leaks and bleed the coolant system before you take it to get tuned.
With larger injectors and full fuel system if you run the aristo ecu and install the aristo maf in blow-thru the car will idle ok and be driveable out of boost without a tune yet. I have done it and it does work, when the car is running in closed loop it seems the ecu will continue to pull fuel beyond the normal scale it would have to with 440's to try and still run 14~'s and is actually able to do it even with double sized injectors (in blow thru). This however did not work with the maf in the stock pull through location, the car will not run this way with large injectors.
Although in blow thru and no tune it will run crazy rich under boost, at wot, or whenever the ecu goes into open loop. Make sure the first thing you do is install a wideband before you start the car, fast tps changes and boosting will bottom out the afr meter in an instant.
You can do this to run the car to check for fluid/vac leaks and bleed the coolant system before you take it to get tuned.
#20
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It is all about the tuner. Srt knows both haltech and lexus very well, so if they will give you a guarantee that it can be properly tuned, you are close enough to use them and your happy with the price, then that's seems fine. There is no overkill in tuning, it's usually lack of a devices control or features, or tuning knowledge of a specific device/vehicle that is the problem when getting the car to run right (assuming it is built right).
#21
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Dont laugh at me for asking stupid questions but what is blow thru. Installing the maf sensor on the boosted side? Not the intake side? Anyway. Srt is sending me their duel wall bro 255 setup 6 1000 cc injectors with fuel rail and fuel pressure regulators. I just want to start the car and make sure everything is working right before trailering it to them. They are going to charge 3500 to install the haltek a front mount inter cooler and tune the car. That price includes parts and labor. I don't think that it to bad considering they do know their **** and I'll have some piece of mind! My next questiion is. I plan on using the 4sp tt trans. What gear positions will I be using with the gearshifter and what do I need to do to get everything to function properly. Is it just plug in and the jap spec ecu will control the rest. And I going to have to do anything special to get her to shift properly? The posts I was reading were on 01 to 05 setups so they do not apply to my vehicle. I don't think. Anyway that's all for now. I should be starting the swap in about a week from now. I'll be honest I'm a little nervous/anxious about it. I'm hoping I won't run into any major issues. Thanks in advance.
#22
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Yes you are correct installing the maf on the pressure side is blow-thru. It should be installed pretty close to the throttle body but not too close, say 8-10". Although with SRT doing your haltech install and the tuning then you should refer to them on if they will want the maf placed in pull thru or blow thru or possibly not being installed at all if doing maf eliminate.
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Ok. Thanks for the heads up on that. The one thing that he said that bothered me a little was that he's not sure if the haltech will control the vvti. Is it really a big deal if I lose the vvti? I wondering if I'm going the wrong route. I don't want to have a strictly race car. In your opinion is that what I'm setting myself up for??!? I don't want to drive the car every day but if I want to take it to work id like to be able to. What do you think I should do? I don't want to have a huge single turbo for no reason but I also don't want to have a for lack of better wording piece of **** that puts down huge numbers but costs me 1500$ every two weeks cause its not built right. I guess you could say I put myself between a rock and a hard place. Suggestions??? Is the tt trans gonna handle the power with just the trans cooler?
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So my mechanic/friend own a shop. I'm going to be bringing the car there at 6 and starting the swap. My last two boxes from drift motion arrive tomorrow. Fmi piping and a bunch of other items. I'll be taking pics and posting them. Guess I'll dust off the laptop. Lol. I'm a charging my handheld cam. It's great to know that in a couple weeks I'll be well on my way to 650 700 hp. I also am getting the trans full race built by IPT trans shop in Hawthorne. I purchased a 4500 stall torque converter and the trans guy sais I'm going to have very little lag even with a large single. Can't wail.
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Starting swap tomorrow night. I'm waiting on a few more things from SRT and Driftmotion but i have mostly everything i need to get going. I'm going to try to make this a well documented thread like 99gs300 did. Hopefully it can inspire someone like his did to me. I'm gonna bring my video camera to the shop and take it from there.
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Well I said we were starting the swap. I'm still waiting on the trans to get back. I thought that I was going to be getting it back last Friday but because I went with a fully built trans and the machine shop was closed for the 4th I won't have it back till this weekend. I'll be posting pics as soon as there are any worth posting.