The weak A650E can do 400whp with just a TC, tranny cooler and being careful on hard launches...if you do the Aristo 4spd with a TC, tranny cooler and maybe billet VB rods (also fairly cheap if you can do it yourself) it'll easily handle ~500whp. Much above that is when I'd start going for Raybestos Blue clutch packs up to 600-650 and beyond that is when I'd start looking to go fully built.

Assuming you get a JDM VVTi swap motor (which is what you need for this swap) you'll have the JDM steel turbos and JDM cams. That motor's good for appx. 280hp out of the box. If you go over to supra forums and find a guy that's upgrading, get your hands on USDM twins and cams, you'll put your motor at a 320hp starting point. But, definitely go with at least 400cc (I'd recommend 550cc or 600cc) injectors, and keep a VERY close eye on your AFR.

 

I'll probably start off from stock since it's going to be much better than my 2JZ-GE.

Plus winter is coming. I don't want to burn out my winter tires =P

I think in the summer I'll start either looking for USDM ceramic twins and upping the boost slowly as I don't want to get bored of it too fast.

 

the USDM twins, IIRC are still as well but they flow better. The only ceramic ones were the JDM non-VVTi...this is of course if memory serves which it quite possibly could not.

 

Now I'm second guessing if I need a TC with twins.

Anyone know what the stall is on the JDM 4spd tranny? Do people upgrade the TC solely for faster spooling, or is it to strengthen the tranny for higher hp as well?

 

I can't recall if there's a thread on this, but I would do it as a safeguard to avoid future issues. I think the higher stall speed may prevent slippage, but don't quote me on that.

 

Is it ok to re-use the 2JZ-GE timing belt, serpintine belt and water pump for the 2JZ-GTE VVTi?

I only have max 20k on them.

 

Higher stall is only going to increase your stall rpm. Basically when you hold the brake and gas at the same time it will allow the rpm to come up higher. This allows you to launch harder by spooling a larger turbo off the line at the drag strip. It does not increase your transmissions strength, reliability, or slip resistance. All it does is allows you to come up to a higher rpm when launching. Now, if it's an aftermarket high performance TC it will probably be made with stronger fins, stators, and such. So in that case, yes it will be a stronger TC when you upgrade but again the stall has nothing to do with strength. You can get a stock 2500rpm-ish stall in a performance brand and it will be stronger than the stock converter.

Now the big question is if it is really even needed? I'll tell you this much. You can spool up to a 67mm turbo on a stock stall converter. Anything smaller including any form of the stock twins can be spooled easily with the stock stall. I would say like a 3200-3500rpm stall would be necessary to get out of the hole when moving up to a 71mm turbo. The increased stall allows you to spool the turbo so you come out the hole at like 10-15psi or more vs still trying to spool it after you have left the line. There is a downside to increasing the stall. You will lose your top end speed because the converter is "looser" on the top end. Basically it means since the converter is a high stall, it is continuously slipping more compared to a lower stall unit. There is less coupling of the engines rotation to the wheels. With the high stall you will lose a bit of power from the stall, and your top end speed will suffer. Also, the gas mileage will be worse with a higher stall because of the decreased coupling of the engine power to the wheels. No doubt it will make your car faster and way more lively from a stop, but at the expense of top end speed, power, and fuel economy. The choice is yours.

I chose to go with a stock stall in my setup because mine is mostly a highway car, and the stall is sufficient to spool my 6765 turbo from a dig. So the decision is up to you. I have the A650E that I built up and it's holding up to the daily abuse on my high boost(roughly 700-800hp depending on how much psi) setup for over a year now. This transmission can still hold the power if done correctly.

 

GTE specific

Add:
*Timing belt tensioner
*Camshaft seals
*PCV (?)
*Valvecover connection hoses
*Thermostat/ OEM red coolant
(coil packs up to par?)

Have a look behind the CP (Crank pulley) and see if you have oil drips/leakage coming from the oilpump seal area which sits directly behind the CP. If you do, I'd recommend you change the FMS (Front main seal) or the whole oil pump assembly. Much easier to serive this while out of the bay.

Also a good idea to get your hands on a billet timing tensioner bracket as the stocker can fracture at any given point as you mod up the ladder. Not super needed BUT you are in there already so why not for piece of mind lol.

Hell, I would consider a single on a log manifold to meet your needs w/o the twins hastle. Another easier area to work on outside of the engine bay area when dealing with twins. Plus a single is very maintenence friendly but depends on your coin flow for the build....
JeffT covered the drivetrain

 

Thanks Jeff and Rik,

Great advice. I think I'll stay with the OEM TC since I'm still running twins and I don't see my upgrading anytime soon. If i do, it would probably be USDM twins for the steel blades.

I don't need too much power, and I rather feed myself crumbs than a loaf of bread on my first go.

For all the GE parts that I've replaced, can they be interchanged with the GTE? (I think I've also changed the tensioner as well, I forgot).

 

the god has spoken!

 

congrats on the upcoming swap. ive been researching it for the past 2 months. im putting the GS up for the winter and when she returns...she'll have a new heart.

from what ive found....BadAssGS3T is gonna be the blueprint for the equipment and HP levels i want my car. his upgrade list is in this thread....

463 to the wheels will work. hahhahaha...

keep up posted!!!

 

Another quick questions, for those that are in Cali or other states that need to do their emissions with OBD II, what is the work around solution for this?

Seems like the emissions with OBD II is going to be implemented soon in Canada (Ontario), so I'd like to plan ahead.

Thanks!

 

Workaround? Dunno..unaware. Personally, I'd weigh the headaches and frustration with the cost of an AEM EMS.

 

I'm just looking for all options for what people do with emissions that require OBD II, since doing the swap you can't use it.

Is the AEM EMS the only way?

 

there's another standalone company that's more money...forget the name but all their stuff is black (yeah I know I'm really helping here haha). Standalone is definitely the way to go though. It'll cost more up front but it's the easiest once you get past the initial wiring headache.

Also btw, I'd recommend putting a Gates timing belt on that thing, not an OE belt and definitely don't reuse one from a GE. IIRC I think they're different.


EDIT: it's Haltech. I remember there was one member a while back that got his running on a haltech piggyback but was having trouble with the ECU relearning and blowing out the tune. I don't know of anyone NA-T or swapped running on a haltech, but JeffTsai's been running on an EMS for a long time and could probably help out.