How much should I spend on a 98/99 gs400 at auction?
11-03-12, 04:21 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
How much should I spend on a 98/99 gs400 at auction?
I know a dealer with a dealers license. I'm looking to bid on a 98 or 99 GS 400 with no more than 150,000 miles. He's charging me a small fee to purchase the car from the dealers auction.
What's the highest bid should I spend?
What's the highest bid should I spend?
11-03-12, 08:01 PM
#5
Agreed,until you see the car you wouldn't know what offer to make...why don't you look for one here from another member,i'm sure you can find a good car on the site that's in good condition and well maintained Also When you buy from an auction,you don't know the FULL history of the car,you have to pay the dealer his fee + taxes on the purchase price and it's only when you own the car and start driving it you'll know for sure if anything's wrong,If its a 1 yr old car then i'd say go for it but the yr you're looking for i think it's wise to buy locally.
Good luck!
11-06-12, 06:31 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: VA
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That is true, what is the going rate in your area. Look on craigslist and autotrader and see what they are going for and since its auction I would go less than what those places are asking unless you see something spectacular. wish you luck!
Trending Topics
11-07-12, 12:45 AM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I decided not to go that route. I found one today for $6,500 at a dealership. I'm going to check it out first thing in the morning. What type of warranty should I get? The dealer told me their cheapest warranty is $300 and I believe he said it's for 3 months. Should I get a warranty? I was told some are worthless.
Thanks for responding.
Thanks for responding.
11-07-12, 09:17 AM
#10
Don't waste your money on the warranty!!!!!
It is a complete waste and a cash grab for both the dealership and insurance co. It covers pretty much NOTHING, despite what they tell you. They will look for any excuse to say whatever repair you need is "not covered." The most common reasons are: 1) It's a prior issue with the car or 2) It's wear and tear. Which, if you think about it, are 99% of the problems you might face with a used car, short of a freak accident where your car grenades itself, burns to the ground, and your insurance adjuster does rule it a manufacturer defect. Even then, you better lawyer up if you want to get a settlement.
Basically, you're better off saving that $300 to have the car inspected by a reputable third party mechanic (particularly the lower ball joints), and thus be able to negotiate with the dealership.
They will also try to stick to a price and "throw in" the insurance. That just means they're lowering their price $300 and making you buy it anyway. I would tell them to stuff it, and you want that $ discounted off, no warranty whatsoever. If you have a mechanic you trust check it out and he clears it, that is all the peace of mind you should need.
On the other hand - it is a used car, and you should expect that there will be issues that crop up due to age and mileage. This forum has lots of information for the issues that our cars are prone to and how to fix them cost effectively if you so choose.
It is a complete waste and a cash grab for both the dealership and insurance co. It covers pretty much NOTHING, despite what they tell you. They will look for any excuse to say whatever repair you need is "not covered." The most common reasons are: 1) It's a prior issue with the car or 2) It's wear and tear. Which, if you think about it, are 99% of the problems you might face with a used car, short of a freak accident where your car grenades itself, burns to the ground, and your insurance adjuster does rule it a manufacturer defect. Even then, you better lawyer up if you want to get a settlement.
Basically, you're better off saving that $300 to have the car inspected by a reputable third party mechanic (particularly the lower ball joints), and thus be able to negotiate with the dealership.
They will also try to stick to a price and "throw in" the insurance. That just means they're lowering their price $300 and making you buy it anyway. I would tell them to stuff it, and you want that $ discounted off, no warranty whatsoever. If you have a mechanic you trust check it out and he clears it, that is all the peace of mind you should need.
On the other hand - it is a used car, and you should expect that there will be issues that crop up due to age and mileage. This forum has lots of information for the issues that our cars are prone to and how to fix them cost effectively if you so choose.
Last edited by ninja6o4; 11-07-12 at 09:21 AM.
11-07-12, 06:08 PM
#11
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Don't waste your money on the warranty!!!!!
It is a complete waste and a cash grab for both the dealership and insurance co. It covers pretty much NOTHING, despite what they tell you. They will look for any excuse to say whatever repair you need is "not covered." The most common reasons are: 1) It's a prior issue with the car or 2) It's wear and tear. Which, if you think about it, are 99% of the problems you might face with a used car, short of a freak accident where your car grenades itself, burns to the ground, and your insurance adjuster does rule it a manufacturer defect. Even then, you better lawyer up if you want to get a settlement.
Basically, you're better off saving that $300 to have the car inspected by a reputable third party mechanic (particularly the lower ball joints), and thus be able to negotiate with the dealership.
They will also try to stick to a price and "throw in" the insurance. That just means they're lowering their price $300 and making you buy it anyway. I would tell them to stuff it, and you want that $ discounted off, no warranty whatsoever. If you have a mechanic you trust check it out and he clears it, that is all the peace of mind you should need.
On the other hand - it is a used car, and you should expect that there will be issues that crop up due to age and mileage. This forum has lots of information for the issues that our cars are prone to and how to fix them cost effectively if you so choose.
It is a complete waste and a cash grab for both the dealership and insurance co. It covers pretty much NOTHING, despite what they tell you. They will look for any excuse to say whatever repair you need is "not covered." The most common reasons are: 1) It's a prior issue with the car or 2) It's wear and tear. Which, if you think about it, are 99% of the problems you might face with a used car, short of a freak accident where your car grenades itself, burns to the ground, and your insurance adjuster does rule it a manufacturer defect. Even then, you better lawyer up if you want to get a settlement.
Basically, you're better off saving that $300 to have the car inspected by a reputable third party mechanic (particularly the lower ball joints), and thus be able to negotiate with the dealership.
They will also try to stick to a price and "throw in" the insurance. That just means they're lowering their price $300 and making you buy it anyway. I would tell them to stuff it, and you want that $ discounted off, no warranty whatsoever. If you have a mechanic you trust check it out and he clears it, that is all the peace of mind you should need.
On the other hand - it is a used car, and you should expect that there will be issues that crop up due to age and mileage. This forum has lots of information for the issues that our cars are prone to and how to fix them cost effectively if you so choose.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
