problem with hood not locking down completely (hood latch doesn't engage)
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Hi,
So I'm having a slight issue with my 98 Lexus GS300.
When I go to close the hood and push down all the way the lock doesn't engage and because of that the hood remain open. Basically it remains opens to the point as if I pulled the handle/lever inside the car to open the hood.
Has anybody had this issue occur before? I sprayed wd40 on the lock/latch area (which sits right above the horn) but that hasn't done much.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
So I'm having a slight issue with my 98 Lexus GS300.
When I go to close the hood and push down all the way the lock doesn't engage and because of that the hood remain open. Basically it remains opens to the point as if I pulled the handle/lever inside the car to open the hood.
Has anybody had this issue occur before? I sprayed wd40 on the lock/latch area (which sits right above the horn) but that hasn't done much.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
#2
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Don't have a solution to the problem but this happens to me now and again with my car, I normally spend 10 to 15min opening and closing it, it' eventually closes....if u do get it to close make sure and push back the lever in place b4 opening the hood....hope someone else can help
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Happens to me from time to time also I usually just keep trying to close the hood by pushing down on the hood right above the lock. usually works after 4-10 attempts
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BNastee (08-12-21)
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I had the same problem and no amount of lube or fiddling was solving it. Car is getting old now and I am beginning to question money going into her. So last time the hood was stuck 1/2 closed I discovered the mechanism was not releasing the cable back to the right which would allow a successful, full closure. I noted it only took about a pound of pressure with my finger and it popped back every time. Problem was when the hood latching mechanism was installed the metal it was mounted to blocks access to where the cable attaches to the locking mechanism.
Solution: Drilled a hole in the metal and now I can reset the cable with a flip of my car key. Here is a few pics of my "hillbilly fix." First shows the hole I drilled. Second is beginning to reset. Third is finished, only takes 1 pound of pressure and you will hear the spring pop the cable back to where it should be.
If you are going to try this fix yourself ... remove the latching mechanism first by removing the two bolts and the "covered" nut. I shouldn't have to tell people that, but you ought to see some of the people I work with. If you are worried about dirt and grime getting in there then cover the new hole with some masking or electrical tape. Oh yeah, make sure you wife knows how to reset the hood mechanism too.
Solution: Drilled a hole in the metal and now I can reset the cable with a flip of my car key. Here is a few pics of my "hillbilly fix." First shows the hole I drilled. Second is beginning to reset. Third is finished, only takes 1 pound of pressure and you will hear the spring pop the cable back to where it should be.
If you are going to try this fix yourself ... remove the latching mechanism first by removing the two bolts and the "covered" nut. I shouldn't have to tell people that, but you ought to see some of the people I work with. If you are worried about dirt and grime getting in there then cover the new hole with some masking or electrical tape. Oh yeah, make sure you wife knows how to reset the hood mechanism too.
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Dampfwalze (09-19-19)
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I had the same problem and no amount of lube or fiddling was solving it. Car is getting old now and I am beginning to question money going into her. So last time the hood was stuck 1/2 closed I discovered the mechanism was not releasing the cable back to the right which would allow a successful, full closure. I noted it only took about a pound of pressure with my finger and it popped back every time. Problem was when the hood latching mechanism was installed the metal it was mounted to blocks access to where the cable attaches to the locking mechanism.
Solution: Drilled a hole in the metal and now I can reset the cable with a flip of my car key. Here is a few pics of my "hillbilly fix." First shows the hole I drilled. Second is beginning to reset. Third is finished, only takes 1 pound of pressure and you will hear the spring pop the cable back to where it should be.
If you are going to try this fix yourself ... remove the latching mechanism first by removing the two bolts and the "covered" nut. I shouldn't have to tell people that, but you ought to see some of the people I work with. If you are worried about dirt and grime getting in there then cover the new hole with some masking or electrical tape. Oh yeah, make sure you wife knows how to reset the hood mechanism too.
Solution: Drilled a hole in the metal and now I can reset the cable with a flip of my car key. Here is a few pics of my "hillbilly fix." First shows the hole I drilled. Second is beginning to reset. Third is finished, only takes 1 pound of pressure and you will hear the spring pop the cable back to where it should be.
If you are going to try this fix yourself ... remove the latching mechanism first by removing the two bolts and the "covered" nut. I shouldn't have to tell people that, but you ought to see some of the people I work with. If you are worried about dirt and grime getting in there then cover the new hole with some masking or electrical tape. Oh yeah, make sure you wife knows how to reset the hood mechanism too.
#13
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Well, I'm not sure of what I'm seeing - if it were me, I'd have rust-protected a hole I drilled in the radiator support. Then, I don't see any difference in the latch position between the two images with the screwdriver included. Is the move from Left to Right in the images for display purposes only?
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