Shifting problem on high RPMs
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Hi! I tried to find somebody with the same issue but I couldn't. Sorry if I missed it somewhere. So here is my problem. I just bought 02 GS430 and noticed next: when I hit accelerator pedal to the floor my car has a hard time shifting 2 to 3rd gear. There is a 2-3 sec pause with losing of power and acceleration. Feels like it can't find the right gear. Then it finally shifts and continues acceleration. Again happens only on high RPMs when in red zone of tachometer. When driving slow no problems. Went to Toyota dealership and they said the transmission fluid looks very good, no need to change. The car has 102K on the clock. Drives great but this thing disappointing me... If somebody knows whats going on please help! Thank you!
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I know on my es300 this happened when i needed to replace my knock sensons, as uf there was no 4th gear. I remember there was a youtube video of a guy with the same problem, and it ended up being a $300 sensor. I don't recall what sensor it was but i'm fairly sure itll be the resolution to your problems.
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I know on my es300 this happened when i needed to replace my knock sensons, as uf there was no 4th gear. I remember there was a youtube video of a guy with the same problem, and it ended up being a $300 sensor. I don't recall what sensor it was but i'm fairly sure itll be the resolution to your problems.
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My 99 GS300 had a similar problem. Didn't do my research and had the tranny fully rebuilt. Huge mistake! It ended up being an intermittently bad shift solenoid mixed with an intermittently bad EPC solenoid, so i wasted about $1500 dollars. Each solenoid was only $200 at the tranny shop. The clutches, seals, and hard parts of the tranny were " in almost brand new shape" with over 130k miles on the car. I have found out that these tranny's are pretty much bulletproof as far as physical parts are concerned. I would def do some checking into electrical before jumping to conclusions. By the way, I drove mine for 5 or 6k miles like this, and never got a Check Engine Light.
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Thats what everybody says about this transmission. Very glad to hear that they are reliable. I don't know when it started because to feel it you have to do at least 80mph. So it happens rare but I don't like driving it and realize smth wrong, you know... How I can check it? Should I ask Toyota check it again or there is a special tool I can use myself? I have a regular OBDII tester, it says nothing wrong. Appreciate your help again, guys!
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You can have them check it for any stored or "soft codes" with their computer. Most likely any "hard codes" i.e. any serious faults will throw the CEL on. To really do any serious diagnosis you would need a handheld scanner that shows a live datastream of all your sensor voltages, and one that will let you access the transmission portion of the computer. These are pretty expensive. I would take it to an independent transmission shop that does a free diagnosis, and tell them exactly what it is doing. Try to see if they can get any codes or see any voltages that seem suspect. The dealer will want $100 to do this probably. I have only heard about this problem on 98-00 300's and 400's. I think they must have made a revision in the parts or software before they switched from 400 to 430's in 01. None of the later models seem to have this happen.
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You can have them check it for any stored or "soft codes" with their computer. Most likely any "hard codes" i.e. any serious faults will throw the CEL on. To really do any serious diagnosis you would need a handheld scanner that shows a live datastream of all your sensor voltages, and one that will let you access the transmission portion of the computer. These are pretty expensive. I would take it to an independent transmission shop that does a free diagnosis, and tell them exactly what it is doing. Try to see if they can get any codes or see any voltages that seem suspect. The dealer will want $100 to do this probably. I have only heard about this problem on 98-00 300's and 400's. I think they must have made a revision in the parts or software before they switched from 400 to 430's in 01. None of the later models seem to have this happen.
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Usually if something is messed up with timing belt, it's going to result in engine failure, valve cover wont do anything, and plugs if they were screwed up would give you symptoms at a specific, load, or throughout the RPM range, not speed. I would try and clean my MAF sensor. That can give you some strange symptoms if it isn't operating correctly at high rpms ( right when the transmission shifts to the next gear). I do doubt this though, because that will almost always kick a CEL on as well. I'd still take it to a tranny shop and tell them about getting that service done, then immediately experiencing problems.
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Usually if something is messed up with timing belt, it's going to result in engine failure, valve cover wont do anything, and plugs if they were screwed up would give you symptoms at a specific, load, or throughout the RPM range, not speed. I would try and clean my MAF sensor. That can give you some strange symptoms if it isn't operating correctly at high rpms ( right when the transmission shifts to the next gear). I do doubt this though, because that will almost always kick a CEL on as well. I'd still take it to a tranny shop and tell them about getting that service done, then immediately experiencing problems.
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P.S. OBDII tester says EVAP system is incorrect. I don't know if its related to the problem
Last edited by Kartvelo; 12-08-12 at 07:26 PM.
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I've run K&N's in all my cars, and never had any such symptoms. 95% of guys on this forum, maybe more, run aftermarket filters without trouble. What is the exact code that your OBDII scanner is giving you? Where did you have that previous work done? After hearing about this last service you just did, I am pretty sure this isn't a transmission issue at all. If you've already done plugs, I would next suspect 02 sensors, vacuum leak, or possibly a coil pack that is starting to go out. I say this because of the rough idle you just stated. Our cars run sooo smooth when they are working correctly, you def have some kind of issue. There are many issues with the way the engine is running that can give you the feeling of a transmission problem. I wouldn't jump to conclusions quite yet.
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The work was done at Tuffy Auto Center. I don't know if you have it it Nebraska. The light vibration was before that service too, time to time. I don't know if the shifting problem was before service... There are no codes or CEL. Just when you connect the tester and click the VIEW MONITORS option the EVAP monitor says INC. Thats it. If there was a misfire or smth I believe I would get a CEL on. Car runs perfect besides that high rpm shifting. 1 to 2nd gear perfect and 2 to 3rd takes some time... Put the paper air filter and cleaned the MAF sensor -- still pause while trying to change 2 to 3rd gear. I also found the transmission fluid looks like to be low. I was driving for 30 mins and checked it on the idling motor and it showed me like 1/4 inch(according to the dipstick measure COLD very low). Somebody on this forum said those trannies are very sensitive to fluid level. I will go to Toyota tomorrow to change it in despite of that they said its good and change the drive belt too. Will see if it helps...
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If that won't help so I don't know what to do without any error codes...If it won't help I'll make a video with good sound. Appreciate you help again, guys!
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You are 100% correct. our Trannys are VERY sensitive to fluid level. Was it 1/4 inch below the cold fluid mark, or you only saw 1/4 inch on the dipstick? make sure that you drive that car a good 10 minutes to warm it up before checking that fluid level. This also goes for checking those codes. That evap INC means "incomplete" i.e. the car has not run its full self-diagnostic check on the evap emissions system yet. I used to get this all the time on cars that hadn't fully warmed up yet while watching the live datastream. This does NOT mean you have a code stored for an Evap Fault. The car, when it is first started, runs a series of test to make sure the evap system is working. these can take a few minutes. Allow the car to reach "closed loop"operation before running the scanner. A cold car runs in what is called "open loop" ( air fuel mixture is determined by a set of preset values stored in the ECU using the air temperature, and is not controlled by what the 02 sensors are reading). "Closed loop" is reached after the car has run for a few minutes and the 02 sensors have heated up enough to give proper readings to control the air fuel mixture (02 sensors must reach a few hundred degrees before they start working). I always let the car reach closed loop operation, and usually would get a "complete" next to my evap test on my datastream. I think our evap codes start with P0440-P0446, if you don't see one of those, your evap system is fine.
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Just got from Toyota. They connected their tester and said that no malfunction codes present or stored in memory(they checked transmission too). They flushed transmission and changed the drive belt(they also said that the guys who did the timing belt were supposed to change drive belt too but the didn't ). I was driving for like 25 mins before checked the fluid level last night. The dipstick was dry. Then drove more aggressively for another 10-15 mins and it showed me 1/4 inch on the entire dipstick. Now the guy from Toyota said he is sure that the level is fine. I didn't check it yet. But now I don't feel any shifting at all while driving slowly...It was not bad before but now is perfect! Good sign! I'll drive around to see if that problem on high rpms disappeared. Hope so!
Last edited by Kartvelo; 12-10-12 at 11:21 AM.