Fluid Maintenance Questions
02-15-13, 04:56 PM
#16
I would recommend using the tranny coolant lines to drain the fluid. I usually pump out about 3 quarts, then fill with 3 new ones, then turn car on a few seconds and run 3-4 more out and put 3-4 more back in and do this until comes out the coolant line RED, then fill to proper level. This gets all the old crap out the torque converter.
02-15-13, 05:52 PM
#17
You shouldnt add any additives. The strategy with the Toyota t iv fluid which is relatively cheap is to change it more frequently instead. If you feel the need to do some thing extra, you should use a more expensive modern synthetic trans. fluid that is type t iv compatible . Search the forum, but amsoil is a popular one, and so is maxlife, maybe redline too. Make sure it specifically says t iv on it . But eventually people see it as not being cost effective and just changing it more frequently and with the cheaper t iv ends up being best for that.
11-04-13, 06:31 PM
#19
This car takes dexron II or higher fluid for power steering. The power steering system is not that hard on the fluid, but over a long period of time it can go bad.
But fortunately, now you can get a much more modern synthetic fluid that exceeds the requirements by a high amount and will barely wear at all.
Just work your way through a quart or 2 of high quality synthetic fluid with the suck and fill and that should be good enough.
Last edited by raytseng; 11-04-13 at 06:35 PM.
02-07-14, 08:17 AM
#20
OP, stop asking questions and get to changing fluids lol. Your first mistake was taking a Firestone person serious. What fluid do you know that is lifetime? None, yes, they will last the life of the unit until it FAILS! Also Mexguy89 has no idea what he is talking about so ignore the WHOLE post. I quoted this post because I agree with everything he stated. I will add my comments along with his post.
1) Correct. Only use T-IV or the Mobil 3309 if you can find it. It's like a buck less than the T-IV (well it used to be). Mobil makes the fluid for Toyota. Do drain & fill, but no full fluid transfer because it WILL shift around the deposit in your pan, which could cause damage. In your case I will do this method every 10-15k and your transmission will love it.
2) Correct. This is a easy DIY, but if you are not strong you won't be able to break the torque on the bolt, due to the heat over the years. I'm a big guy and it took me awhile to break it. If you do this yourself, MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE TOP FILL BOLT OFF FIRST BEFORE YOU DRAIN IT. If you can't get it lose, then you will be looking ******ty like Mr. Nitty. I did this and used Mobil syn gear oil, but this job was very messy and smelly. I will pay someone to do this for me next time.
3) I don't know if I really agree with the 30k miles, but it def. would not hurt to change it early though. You can also do the "turkey baster" method to gradually add new fluid over time. If not as good as the bleeding the brake, but it's better than nothing and actually what I will be doing. I bought a suction pump/needle from Wal-Mart that I use for my PS fluid replacement that I will use for the brakes.
4) Agree. Use the "turkey baster" method to do this. Something he left out, do NOT suck it completely dry. You will introduce air into the system, so leave a small low level and add the new fluid. I used 1 full quart of Mobil 1 syn atf over a month span. Once done, turn the steering wheel left/right.
5) totally agree. This should be done now in your case. I had mine changed during my 100k timin belt service and I honestly probably won't mess with it again until my 200k..maybe 175k due to the low amount of miles I'm putting on my car now.
1) Correct. Only use T-IV or the Mobil 3309 if you can find it. It's like a buck less than the T-IV (well it used to be). Mobil makes the fluid for Toyota. Do drain & fill, but no full fluid transfer because it WILL shift around the deposit in your pan, which could cause damage. In your case I will do this method every 10-15k and your transmission will love it.
2) Correct. This is a easy DIY, but if you are not strong you won't be able to break the torque on the bolt, due to the heat over the years. I'm a big guy and it took me awhile to break it. If you do this yourself, MAKE SURE YOU TAKE THE TOP FILL BOLT OFF FIRST BEFORE YOU DRAIN IT. If you can't get it lose, then you will be looking ******ty like Mr. Nitty. I did this and used Mobil syn gear oil, but this job was very messy and smelly. I will pay someone to do this for me next time.
3) I don't know if I really agree with the 30k miles, but it def. would not hurt to change it early though. You can also do the "turkey baster" method to gradually add new fluid over time. If not as good as the bleeding the brake, but it's better than nothing and actually what I will be doing. I bought a suction pump/needle from Wal-Mart that I use for my PS fluid replacement that I will use for the brakes.
4) Agree. Use the "turkey baster" method to do this. Something he left out, do NOT suck it completely dry. You will introduce air into the system, so leave a small low level and add the new fluid. I used 1 full quart of Mobil 1 syn atf over a month span. Once done, turn the steering wheel left/right.
5) totally agree. This should be done now in your case. I had mine changed during my 100k timin belt service and I honestly probably won't mess with it again until my 200k..maybe 175k due to the low amount of miles I'm putting on my car now.
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