What did you do to your GS today?
#2641
#2642
So I read you can CBEST this - which is hard to do or needs a dealer. Or just unplug some wire that controls the telescoping steering wheel auto function.
I read its at 6 oclock on the ignition , but that doesn't seem easy to unplug (you can see i busted a small piece of plastic off here) anyone ever do it or know this is the right one (which one ? the right hand side does nothing, so bottom or left are only ones left.
Which one is it this long white one? How the hell do you unplug it?
I read its at 6 oclock on the ignition , but that doesn't seem easy to unplug (you can see i busted a small piece of plastic off here) anyone ever do it or know this is the right one (which one ? the right hand side does nothing, so bottom or left are only ones left.
Which one is it this long white one? How the hell do you unplug it?
Go here, for a pic from the manual, of the switch:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...l#post10509937
Appears the harness-side release-tab is facing the column... so you either have to get a tool in there to release it (if you have room), or remove both the switch and harness from the column, then you can get to the release-tab.
I'm guessing to remove the switch, you'd move the two wings away from the column, then the entire switch would slide out of the column.
Please note: if you disable key-awareness, you aren't just modifying the column behavior... anything that wants/needs to know that the key is inserted, will be impacted. That would include the column movement, lighting of the instrument-panel, perhaps things related to the engine-immobilizer, alarm functions, exterior lighting, luck functionality, etc. So you're change might do a lot more then you would think it would.
#2643
Rookie
Thanks I gave up on screwing around with all that and here is what you can do.
Forget about the whole top area - the key, the shell around steering etc.
1. take off the VERY bottom piece of trim with the light and its just 2 screws and a tab above the pedals
2. look up from the brake in the middle, there is a white/black medium size harness of about 8 pins hovering and facing you more or less right there, its an easy one to take out, just unplug it and it kills all power to the telecoping system - this includes the manual control but who cares the SCREECHING banshee of death will be banished forever, just put the key in, set steering wheel where you want it, unplug. Now its set in stone and will never move, to move it only takes again about 2 mins of work, pop off the bottom piece, reconnect. I was thinking it would not be too hard to connect an extension or something here so you can reach under and do it faster. Since I am 6'2 I keep the wheel at the very bottom and fully extened out - Now everyone can just move the seat back and forth instead of the wheel. That SCREECH as the wheel moved up and down when it was warm and the heat expanded the metal was the BANE of this car,
Forget about the whole top area - the key, the shell around steering etc.
1. take off the VERY bottom piece of trim with the light and its just 2 screws and a tab above the pedals
2. look up from the brake in the middle, there is a white/black medium size harness of about 8 pins hovering and facing you more or less right there, its an easy one to take out, just unplug it and it kills all power to the telecoping system - this includes the manual control but who cares the SCREECHING banshee of death will be banished forever, just put the key in, set steering wheel where you want it, unplug. Now its set in stone and will never move, to move it only takes again about 2 mins of work, pop off the bottom piece, reconnect. I was thinking it would not be too hard to connect an extension or something here so you can reach under and do it faster. Since I am 6'2 I keep the wheel at the very bottom and fully extened out - Now everyone can just move the seat back and forth instead of the wheel. That SCREECH as the wheel moved up and down when it was warm and the heat expanded the metal was the BANE of this car,
#2644
Thanks I gave up on screwing around with all that and here is what you can do.
Forget about the whole top area - the key, the shell around steering etc.
1. take off the VERY bottom piece of trim with the light and its just 2 screws and a tab above the pedals
2. look up from the brake in the middle, there is a white/black medium size harness of about 8 pins hovering and facing you more or less right there, its an easy one to take out, just unplug it and it kills all power to the telecoping system - this includes the manual control but who cares the SCREECHING banshee of death will be banished forever, just put the key in, set steering wheel where you want it, unplug. Now its set in stone and will never move, to move it only takes again about 2 mins of work, pop off the bottom piece, reconnect. I was thinking it would not be too hard to connect an extension or something here so you can reach under and do it faster. Since I am 6'2 I keep the wheel at the very bottom and fully extened out - Now everyone can just move the seat back and forth instead of the wheel. That SCREECH as the wheel moved up and down when it was warm and the heat expanded the metal was the BANE of this car,
Forget about the whole top area - the key, the shell around steering etc.
1. take off the VERY bottom piece of trim with the light and its just 2 screws and a tab above the pedals
2. look up from the brake in the middle, there is a white/black medium size harness of about 8 pins hovering and facing you more or less right there, its an easy one to take out, just unplug it and it kills all power to the telecoping system - this includes the manual control but who cares the SCREECHING banshee of death will be banished forever, just put the key in, set steering wheel where you want it, unplug. Now its set in stone and will never move, to move it only takes again about 2 mins of work, pop off the bottom piece, reconnect. I was thinking it would not be too hard to connect an extension or something here so you can reach under and do it faster. Since I am 6'2 I keep the wheel at the very bottom and fully extened out - Now everyone can just move the seat back and forth instead of the wheel. That SCREECH as the wheel moved up and down when it was warm and the heat expanded the metal was the BANE of this car,
#2645
Rookie
Cool I will search for that , also has anyone got any decent Brake Rotors and pads off Ebay there seems to be TONS of them for cheap all over, drilled or not drilled etc? Looks like parts for our ancient cars are piling up and going on SALE
#2646
I typically run Centric blanks and EBC green pads on my other Lexus'.
The following users liked this post:
toneekay (05-10-19)
#2648
Rookie
Thanks I am in Canada and just want no squeaking , I have run OEM till now by machining the rotors but they are beginning to wobble at high speed brakes now.
I don't goto the track or do anything other then normal driving, I do sometimes take it into the mountains and we do get SNOW here etc.
I can pickup from the US so my options for a full set of 4 rotors / pads are
Centric Premium Rotors with E-Coating off Amazon - US $148.74
EBC Green Pads $70 back and $100 front
Total = $321.81 USD
Brembo - US $278.17 (w pads)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-...0/111893716242
FR Auto Parts (they are actually in Canada) US $117.80 (seems a little to cheap to be good) but they have 180 happy customers and 98.3% rating
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Front-Rear-K...g/163086617883
Ratings - https://feedback.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...e&interval=365
I don't goto the track or do anything other then normal driving, I do sometimes take it into the mountains and we do get SNOW here etc.
I can pickup from the US so my options for a full set of 4 rotors / pads are
Centric Premium Rotors with E-Coating off Amazon - US $148.74
EBC Green Pads $70 back and $100 front
Total = $321.81 USD
Brembo - US $278.17 (w pads)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-...0/111893716242
FR Auto Parts (they are actually in Canada) US $117.80 (seems a little to cheap to be good) but they have 180 happy customers and 98.3% rating
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Front-Rear-K...g/163086617883
Ratings - https://feedback.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...e&interval=365
#2649
Rookie
OK so this cable?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/USB-to-OBD2-...AAAOSwyZZcnEKi
Which version of techstream? Seems to be a lot free (craked I guess ones?)
http://blog.uobdii.com/toyota-tis-te...setup-on-win7/
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/USB-to-OBD2-...AAAOSwyZZcnEKi
Which version of techstream? Seems to be a lot free (craked I guess ones?)
http://blog.uobdii.com/toyota-tis-te...setup-on-win7/
#2650
Thanks I am in Canada and just want no squeaking , I have run OEM till now by machining the rotors but they are beginning to wobble at high speed brakes now.
I don't goto the track or do anything other then normal driving, I do sometimes take it into the mountains and we do get SNOW here etc.
I can pickup from the US so my options for a full set of 4 rotors / pads are
Centric Premium Rotors with E-Coating off Amazon - US $148.74
EBC Green Pads $70 back and $100 front
Total = $321.81 USD
Brembo - US $278.17 (w pads)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-...0/111893716242
FR Auto Parts (they are actually in Canada) US $117.80 (seems a little to cheap to be good) but they have 180 happy customers and 98.3% rating
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Front-Rear-K...g/163086617883
Ratings - https://feedback.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...e&interval=365
I don't goto the track or do anything other then normal driving, I do sometimes take it into the mountains and we do get SNOW here etc.
I can pickup from the US so my options for a full set of 4 rotors / pads are
Centric Premium Rotors with E-Coating off Amazon - US $148.74
EBC Green Pads $70 back and $100 front
Total = $321.81 USD
Brembo - US $278.17 (w pads)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-...0/111893716242
FR Auto Parts (they are actually in Canada) US $117.80 (seems a little to cheap to be good) but they have 180 happy customers and 98.3% rating
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Front-Rear-K...g/163086617883
Ratings - https://feedback.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...e&interval=365
#2651
OK so this cable?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/USB-to-OBD2-...AAAOSwyZZcnEKi
Which version of techstream? Seems to be a lot free (craked I guess ones?)
http://blog.uobdii.com/toyota-tis-te...setup-on-win7/
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/USB-to-OBD2-...AAAOSwyZZcnEKi
Which version of techstream? Seems to be a lot free (craked I guess ones?)
http://blog.uobdii.com/toyota-tis-te...setup-on-win7/
#2652
Thanks I am in Canada and just want no squeaking , I have run OEM till now by machining the rotors but they are beginning to wobble at high speed brakes now.
I don't goto the track or do anything other then normal driving, I do sometimes take it into the mountains and we do get SNOW here etc.
I can pickup from the US so my options for a full set of 4 rotors / pads are
Centric Premium Rotors with E-Coating off Amazon - US $148.74
EBC Green Pads $70 back and $100 front
Total = $321.81 USD
Brembo - US $278.17 (w pads)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-...0/111893716242
FR Auto Parts (they are actually in Canada) US $117.80 (seems a little to cheap to be good) but they have 180 happy customers and 98.3% rating
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Front-Rear-K...g/163086617883
Ratings - https://feedback.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...e&interval=365
I don't goto the track or do anything other then normal driving, I do sometimes take it into the mountains and we do get SNOW here etc.
I can pickup from the US so my options for a full set of 4 rotors / pads are
Centric Premium Rotors with E-Coating off Amazon - US $148.74
EBC Green Pads $70 back and $100 front
Total = $321.81 USD
Brembo - US $278.17 (w pads)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Rear-...0/111893716242
FR Auto Parts (they are actually in Canada) US $117.80 (seems a little to cheap to be good) but they have 180 happy customers and 98.3% rating
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Front-Rear-K...g/163086617883
Ratings - https://feedback.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAP...e&interval=365
#2654
Replaced a bad steering rack bushing with a poly bushing. Noticed it was soft and squished out to one side when I did my front swaybar replacement a couple weeks ago. This is a link to the kit I bought if anyone's interested. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Lexus-...53.m2749.l2649 It always only ever is the passengers side one depicted that goes bad from what I've seen on Toyota and Lexus so I left the other two on the drivers side alone. They are still solid and have no movement. Plus they are very difficult to replace because they are press in.
Fitment is nice as you can see and is a good replacement for your old worn out bushing. Very easy install.
Fitment is nice as you can see and is a good replacement for your old worn out bushing. Very easy install.
#2655
Replaced a bad steering rack bushing with a poly bushing. Noticed it was soft and squished out to one side when I did my front swaybar replacement a couple weeks ago. This is a link to the kit I bought if anyone's interested. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Lexus-...53.m2749.l2649 It always only ever is the passengers side one depicted that goes bad from what I've seen on Toyota and Lexus so I left the other two on the drivers side alone. They are still solid and have no movement. Plus they are very difficult to replace because they are press in.
Fitment is nice as you can see and is a good replacement for your old worn out bushing. Very easy install.
Fitment is nice as you can see and is a good replacement for your old worn out bushing. Very easy install.