uneek78

I recently took my car for an oil change and inspection. Well, once all is done (as usual) they tell me there are some problems with my car. My car didn't pass inspection because my engine light is on and my rack & pinion(steering) is leaking. Additionally, on another page is says:

OBDII Test Results Explanation

Connector Damage - A "Fail" indicates your OBDII Diagnostic Link Connector is damaged, tampered or inoperable.
Communications Established - A "Fail" indicates your OBDII Diagnostic Link Connector is not communicating with the test equipment at the test facility.
Mil Commanded-On - A "Fail" indicates your vehicle's computer has detected a malfunction in one or more of your vehicle's emission control components. A MIL Commanded-On signal indicates your vehicle's computer has stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes(DTC). These codes will assist our repair technician in identifying the cause of your vehicle's failure.

And at the bottom it says

Code Number - P0037
Description of the DTC - H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)


Personally, this all sounds like CHA-CHING to me for them. But any positive prognosis for this? No way I'm dropping more than $1000 on my car this year. Last year the stealership got over $2,000 from me on this car.

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

You can buy a new rack and pinion at parts store for about < $500. Install it yourself Its really not that hard, just a bit time consuming.

As for the code, I believe its just an o2 sensor that is out. Thats usually what the heater control circuit is. That or the ecu is damaged (most likely not). $100-120 bucks (depending if its upstream or down stream, cant remember which) or ~$70 for a universal sensor. Also install yourself. Unscrew old, unplug then reverse process with new one.

uneek78

Thanks for responding. Soooooooo.................I'm not someone that you would consider experienced or knowledgeable working with cars. I'm not afraid to try something that is a "no brainer". I work in IT so I'm not afraid to take things apart. The sensor part sounds easy. Is their a way I can pin point the exact problem myself? If not, is there some directions somewhere with pictures on how to replace it? Is the o2 the same as the universal sensor? Am I asking so many questions where I have no business opening my hood? Lol!!!!!

uneek78

So Toyota (which is always cheaper than Lexus) quoted me roughly at:

$1,600 for the rack & pinion replacement
$70ish for the oxygen sensor replacement

I'm fine with the oxygen sensor replacement. That price makes me smile. They said Lexus quoted them $1,400 for the rack & pinion. I told them I saw it for like $200 online. And they were like that isn't warrantied. So if what I order doesn't work when they put it in I'll have to pay them to pull it out and pay to have what should have put in in the first place. Rock and a hard place here.......ugh!!!!

I think the stealership is going to win again. I never win.........sheeeeeesh! I need a mechanic degree!

Mr Jokster

iTrader: (8)

Sometimes when the 'heater control circuit" fails, the wire is bad between the ecu and the sensor, you'd have to find where it goes to on the ecu and test from there to the sensor to see if its bad and replace the wire, if the wire is good, then its just a sensor problem. As for the universal sensor, Its the exact same one as for factory, but it has no plug for a plug and play. You would have to figure out which is the heater wire, ground wires etc. You might find that info here on CL, not sure. But if its wired incorrectly, you'll get incorrect readings. < Thats where knowing a mechanic comes in hand, they have a program with all wiring schematics of every car, however, I'm sure it could be found with some extensive searching.

The rack and pinion isnt hard. IIRC, there are only like 3 or 4 bolts holding it on and it comes right off, just gotta remove the 2 bolts on the outer tie rods, or just remove the tie rods from the rack to make it shorter and easier to remove. One of the mount bolts is a PITA to remove though, the cross member is in the way. The 2 small mounts above each other have very little room to work with, so patience is needed for them.


Heres a pic of the rack. You'll see 4 bolts. The 2 arrows are the hard to get to ones, but not too bad, then the other arrow is a bushing for the other mount. To the right is a picture of the bushing (black #3) and the mount that goes around it like a U-clamp (black #2) I believe there are 2 bolts that bolt upwards to the body on both sides. And thats it. You can see the threads on the ends of the inner tie rods, those can be unscrewed from the tie rods and after undoing the fluid hose, just slide her out.


Much easier when you see it huh Now this is all after removing all the plastic mud guards and what not.