Gte vvti swap couple questions
04-10-13, 10:24 PM
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Gte vvti swap couple questions
Hello all, I got my gte vvti swap done, been driving it for the last week, engine is completely stock other then a 3" DP and 3" exhaust with NO restricter plate,
Engine runs very very well, idles smooth as silk, running on all stock aristo components including Ecu, I was wanting to know how much boost others are running on the stock wastegates? Other then a 3" DP and exhaust all is oem like I said...
My engine hits 18psi fairly quick and stays there rock solid, AFR's are rock steady also at 11:5, don't get me wrong I'm def not complaigning it's more of a concern, prior to doing the swap I did research and most everyone stated the Ecu would boost cut at around 14psi.. Well mine dosnt it allows the engine to run 18psi steady with a perfect a/f ratio.
I would like to hear from people that have done this swap and there results off the stock setup, please only people that have actually done the swap, no offence to anyone I don't need info on what you read as I have probly ready read the same thing.
I am pretty happy with the results I was not expecting to be able to run over 14psi without the Ecu cutting...
Thanks in advance..
Engine runs very very well, idles smooth as silk, running on all stock aristo components including Ecu, I was wanting to know how much boost others are running on the stock wastegates? Other then a 3" DP and exhaust all is oem like I said...
My engine hits 18psi fairly quick and stays there rock solid, AFR's are rock steady also at 11:5, don't get me wrong I'm def not complaigning it's more of a concern, prior to doing the swap I did research and most everyone stated the Ecu would boost cut at around 14psi.. Well mine dosnt it allows the engine to run 18psi steady with a perfect a/f ratio.
I would like to hear from people that have done this swap and there results off the stock setup, please only people that have actually done the swap, no offence to anyone I don't need info on what you read as I have probly ready read the same thing.
I am pretty happy with the results I was not expecting to be able to run over 14psi without the Ecu cutting...
Thanks in advance..
04-11-13, 02:50 PM
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What do you mean? Yeah I had it painted flat black, it was that off blue color but it was marked up pretty bad from the metal straps when they shipped it.
I'll remove the Ecu tonight and see if it has been chipped, I thought of that possibility but was curious if there where other factors that might allow this, even if the Ecu was bypassed for the boost cut I didn't think the Ecu you be mapped for thatch boost from factory, I have a aem fic and was going to install it and tune for boost but now seeing how the engine already runs 18psi steady and AF are perfect there really is t any reason to now well untill I want to run more boost..
So for the guys that have actually do e the swap or own a gs3 with this swap where was the Ecu cutting boost at?
How much boost can these factory turbos run untill they are out of its effiency range?
Thanks again
I'll remove the Ecu tonight and see if it has been chipped, I thought of that possibility but was curious if there where other factors that might allow this, even if the Ecu was bypassed for the boost cut I didn't think the Ecu you be mapped for thatch boost from factory, I have a aem fic and was going to install it and tune for boost but now seeing how the engine already runs 18psi steady and AF are perfect there really is t any reason to now well untill I want to run more boost..
So for the guys that have actually do e the swap or own a gs3 with this swap where was the Ecu cutting boost at?
How much boost can these factory turbos run untill they are out of its effiency range?
Thanks again
04-11-13, 04:29 PM
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What do you mean? Yeah I had it painted flat black, it was that off blue color but it was marked up pretty bad from the metal straps when they shipped it.
I'll remove the Ecu tonight and see if it has been chipped, I thought of that possibility but was curious if there where other factors that might allow this, even if the Ecu was bypassed for the boost cut I didn't think the Ecu you be mapped for thatch boost from factory, I have a aem fic and was going to install it and tune for boost but now seeing how the engine already runs 18psi steady and AF are perfect there really is t any reason to now well untill I want to run more boost..
So for the guys that have actually do e the swap or own a gs3 with this swap where was the Ecu cutting boost at?
How much boost can these factory turbos run untill they are out of its effiency range?
Thanks again
I'll remove the Ecu tonight and see if it has been chipped, I thought of that possibility but was curious if there where other factors that might allow this, even if the Ecu was bypassed for the boost cut I didn't think the Ecu you be mapped for thatch boost from factory, I have a aem fic and was going to install it and tune for boost but now seeing how the engine already runs 18psi steady and AF are perfect there really is t any reason to now well untill I want to run more boost..
So for the guys that have actually do e the swap or own a gs3 with this swap where was the Ecu cutting boost at?
How much boost can these factory turbos run untill they are out of its effiency range?
Thanks again
04-11-13, 07:37 PM
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I'll have to look up the compressor map for the stock twins, I do t think 18 is out of there efficiency range, reason being, I've tuned tons of turbo cars, all makes and models big turbos little turbos and every single one that I have gone close to its effiency range power band drops pretty bad, you could be right as far as it getting close but as it sits not at 18 pounds it pulls clean all the way through.
04-11-13, 08:01 PM
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04-11-13, 09:16 PM
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I'll have to look up the compressor map for the stock twins, I do t think 18 is out of there efficiency range, reason being, I've tuned tons of turbo cars, all makes and models big turbos little turbos and every single one that I have gone close to its effiency range power band drops pretty bad, you could be right as far as it getting close but as it sits not at 18 pounds it pulls clean all the way through.
04-11-13, 10:01 PM
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I'll find out in a bit when I take the Ecu apart, for the mean time while I still have the stock twin in I can't complaign, saved me time and money not having to buy a boost controller and time not having to hook up and tune my aem I have for it..
Does anyone's water temp gauge read alittle higher then the GE motor? Mine is right at the half way mark, with the old GE motor it was about 1 tick under half, the coolant system is bleed and I'm also running water wetter, it's not getting hotter then half but was curious if maybe the jap coolant sensor read different then is spec by chance..
Does anyone's water temp gauge read alittle higher then the GE motor? Mine is right at the half way mark, with the old GE motor it was about 1 tick under half, the coolant system is bleed and I'm also running water wetter, it's not getting hotter then half but was curious if maybe the jap coolant sensor read different then is spec by chance..
04-11-13, 10:34 PM
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I'll find out in a bit when I take the Ecu apart, for the mean time while I still have the stock twin in I can't complaign, saved me time and money not having to buy a boost controller and time not having to hook up and tune my aem I have for it..
Does anyone's water temp gauge read alittle higher then the GE motor? Mine is right at the half way mark, with the old GE motor it was about 1 tick under half, the coolant system is bleed and I'm also running water wetter, it's not getting hotter then half but was curious if maybe the jap coolant sensor read different then is spec by chance..
Does anyone's water temp gauge read alittle higher then the GE motor? Mine is right at the half way mark, with the old GE motor it was about 1 tick under half, the coolant system is bleed and I'm also running water wetter, it's not getting hotter then half but was curious if maybe the jap coolant sensor read different then is spec by chance..
04-12-13, 12:07 AM
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Okay just took it apart, def no aftermarket chips present, only other explaination is
1. My new PLX gauge is wqy off...
2. The map is not reading correctly and not letting ecu see the actual boost, but if tbis was it i wouldnt think the ecu would be mapped for this much boost in factory trim.
Only 1 way to find out, ill get a voltage reading off map tomorrow,
Now with this engine its different then other engines where others usually have either a map for speed density or a maf but usally not both. Does anyone know for sure why the vvti ecu needs both?
1. My new PLX gauge is wqy off...
2. The map is not reading correctly and not letting ecu see the actual boost, but if tbis was it i wouldnt think the ecu would be mapped for this much boost in factory trim.
Only 1 way to find out, ill get a voltage reading off map tomorrow,
Now with this engine its different then other engines where others usually have either a map for speed density or a maf but usally not both. Does anyone know for sure why the vvti ecu needs both?
04-12-13, 12:12 AM
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Wouldnt be surprised if the gauge was off, had the worse experiance with plx tech service, if the gauge is off its going in the trash along with the rest of the sm modules....
04-12-13, 03:01 PM
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Hi Lexluvr, I have a GS with Aristo swap done. Will try to answer some of you q's:
My engine came from the donor car equipped with HKS Fuel Cut Defender. This is a small electronic device which prevents ECU from cutting off the fuel after boost reaches 1.0 bar (about 14.5 psi) - which ECU normally does.
However, during the swap we did not re-connect the FCD. Despite this, after some mods (FMIC, decat, 3" downpipe-back exhaust etc.) we were able to reach 20+ psi and ECU did not cut the fuel off.
We observed however the fuel cut at higher boost levels and finally had to re-connect the FCD. As I do not work on the car myself, I'm not sure what was maximum boost reading before the cut occured. Will have to ask my mate who actually does the work.
As to the "chipped ECU" I have never heard of Aristo ECU being chippable. To my best knowledge the only options one has is either to add a piggyback or replace the OEM ECU completely with some aftermarket standalone.
Double check your AFR levels! Possibly with an external, professional gauge/sensor. If you still have stock fuel pump and increase your boost, it is highly probable, that you are running very lean. In my case there was engine knocking unless I upgraded a fuel pump and started to use the highest octane rating fuel I could get (100 RON which is equivalent to your 94 AKI).
This is partially because of JDM ECU, which is designed for better-quality fuel than we have in Europe and much better than you have in States.
The general consensus about maximum safe boost level for stock twins is 1.2 bar (about 17 psi)... as you probably already read.
My water temperature gauge reads less than a half when an engine reaches full working temperature. To be exact it is a little bit above the second mark out of four.
I am really confused about whether our engines use MAF or MAP. Until today I had thought it was MAF only, but just found this:
Anyway, hope it helps a bit
My engine came from the donor car equipped with HKS Fuel Cut Defender. This is a small electronic device which prevents ECU from cutting off the fuel after boost reaches 1.0 bar (about 14.5 psi) - which ECU normally does.
However, during the swap we did not re-connect the FCD. Despite this, after some mods (FMIC, decat, 3" downpipe-back exhaust etc.) we were able to reach 20+ psi and ECU did not cut the fuel off.
We observed however the fuel cut at higher boost levels and finally had to re-connect the FCD. As I do not work on the car myself, I'm not sure what was maximum boost reading before the cut occured. Will have to ask my mate who actually does the work.
As to the "chipped ECU" I have never heard of Aristo ECU being chippable. To my best knowledge the only options one has is either to add a piggyback or replace the OEM ECU completely with some aftermarket standalone.
Double check your AFR levels! Possibly with an external, professional gauge/sensor. If you still have stock fuel pump and increase your boost, it is highly probable, that you are running very lean. In my case there was engine knocking unless I upgraded a fuel pump and started to use the highest octane rating fuel I could get (100 RON which is equivalent to your 94 AKI).
This is partially because of JDM ECU, which is designed for better-quality fuel than we have in Europe and much better than you have in States.
The general consensus about maximum safe boost level for stock twins is 1.2 bar (about 17 psi)... as you probably already read.
My water temperature gauge reads less than a half when an engine reaches full working temperature. To be exact it is a little bit above the second mark out of four.
I am really confused about whether our engines use MAF or MAP. Until today I had thought it was MAF only, but just found this:
The vvti gte uses both. MAP on the intake manifold, MAF between the airbox and turbo inlet.
The non-vvti jdm gte used only MAP
The non-vvti jdm gte used only MAP
04-12-13, 03:19 PM
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Hi Lexluvr, I have a GS with Aristo swap done. Will try to answer some of you q's:
My engine came from the donor car equipped with HKS Fuel Cut Defender. This is a small electronic device which prevents ECU from cutting off the fuel after boost reaches 1.0 bar (about 14.5 psi) - which ECU normally does.
However, during the swap we did not re-connect the FCD. Despite this, after some mods (FMIC, decat, 3" downpipe-back exhaust etc.) we were able to reach 20+ psi and ECU did not cut the fuel off.
We observed however the fuel cut at higher boost levels and finally had to re-connect the FCD. As I do not work on the car myself, I'm not sure what was maximum boost reading before the cut occured. Will have to ask my mate who actually does the work.
As to the "chipped ECU" I have never heard of Aristo ECU being chippable. To my best knowledge the only options one has is either to add a piggyback or replace the OEM ECU completely with some aftermarket standalone.
Double check your AFR levels! Possibly with an external, professional gauge/sensor. If you still have stock fuel pump and increase your boost, it is highly probable, that you are running very lean. In my case there was engine knocking unless I upgraded a fuel pump and started to use the highest octane rating fuel I could get (100 RON which is equivalent to your 94 AKI).
This is partially because of JDM ECU, which is designed for better-quality fuel than we have in Europe and much better than you have in States.
The general consensus about maximum safe boost level for stock twins is 1.2 bar (about 17 psi)... as you probably already read.
My water temperature gauge reads less than a half when an engine reaches full working temperature. To be exact it is a little bit above the second mark out of four.
I am really confused about whether our engines use MAF or MAP. Until today I had thought it was MAF only, but just found this:
Anyway, hope it helps a bit
My engine came from the donor car equipped with HKS Fuel Cut Defender. This is a small electronic device which prevents ECU from cutting off the fuel after boost reaches 1.0 bar (about 14.5 psi) - which ECU normally does.
However, during the swap we did not re-connect the FCD. Despite this, after some mods (FMIC, decat, 3" downpipe-back exhaust etc.) we were able to reach 20+ psi and ECU did not cut the fuel off.
We observed however the fuel cut at higher boost levels and finally had to re-connect the FCD. As I do not work on the car myself, I'm not sure what was maximum boost reading before the cut occured. Will have to ask my mate who actually does the work.
As to the "chipped ECU" I have never heard of Aristo ECU being chippable. To my best knowledge the only options one has is either to add a piggyback or replace the OEM ECU completely with some aftermarket standalone.
Double check your AFR levels! Possibly with an external, professional gauge/sensor. If you still have stock fuel pump and increase your boost, it is highly probable, that you are running very lean. In my case there was engine knocking unless I upgraded a fuel pump and started to use the highest octane rating fuel I could get (100 RON which is equivalent to your 94 AKI).
This is partially because of JDM ECU, which is designed for better-quality fuel than we have in Europe and much better than you have in States.
The general consensus about maximum safe boost level for stock twins is 1.2 bar (about 17 psi)... as you probably already read.
My water temperature gauge reads less than a half when an engine reaches full working temperature. To be exact it is a little bit above the second mark out of four.
I am really confused about whether our engines use MAF or MAP. Until today I had thought it was MAF only, but just found this:
Anyway, hope it helps a bit
04-12-13, 03:31 PM
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However I've alway heard that Toyota ECU's are pretty much 'closed' (in contrast to some Lancer EVO, Honda or GM ECU's, which are tunable to some extend). Also, can't remember any GS project with anything other than piggyback or standalone.
But still... there may be lot of things I don't know about.
