Having My '99 GS300 Repainted - Tips & Advice Please
#1
Rookie
Thread Starter
Having My '99 GS300 Repainted - Tips & Advice Please
Hi folks. I'm preparing to have my 1999 GS300 repainted. The Florida sun has taken its toll on it. I'm keeping the original color, Cinnabar - code 3N1.
This is a daily driver vehicle with 175k miles. I'm not looking to invest in high-end paint work. I just need a decent repaint to extend the life of this car 1-2 years until I sell it.
The clear coat has peeled off on the roof, hood, rear spoiler and side mirrors. The bumpers, side panels and doors are not peeling. (see photos in next posting)
I have a guy lined up who will do the prep work, apply one coat of base and one coat of clear to the entire car. The materials used will be (3) quarts of base and (1) gallon of clear coat. He advises that it will hold up well and not dull or fade away in six months like other economy jobs. This is a trusted shop I've used for many mechanical repairs over the years - but never any body/paint work. He's doing this for me as a side cash job.
He plans to sand the entire car to remove all clear coat. Tape off everything. Spray the base. Then the clear.
___________________________________________________
My questions to the forum are:
Any advice or tips are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
This is a daily driver vehicle with 175k miles. I'm not looking to invest in high-end paint work. I just need a decent repaint to extend the life of this car 1-2 years until I sell it.
The clear coat has peeled off on the roof, hood, rear spoiler and side mirrors. The bumpers, side panels and doors are not peeling. (see photos in next posting)
I have a guy lined up who will do the prep work, apply one coat of base and one coat of clear to the entire car. The materials used will be (3) quarts of base and (1) gallon of clear coat. He advises that it will hold up well and not dull or fade away in six months like other economy jobs. This is a trusted shop I've used for many mechanical repairs over the years - but never any body/paint work. He's doing this for me as a side cash job.
He plans to sand the entire car to remove all clear coat. Tape off everything. Spray the base. Then the clear.
___________________________________________________
My questions to the forum are:
- Does the process the painter outlined sound like the way to go for the type of result I'm looking for? (sand, base, clear)
- Does anyone have any advice on paint? Does it have to be Toyota/Lexus paint or can other 3N1 formulas work? Same for the clear coat.
- If aftermarket paint is suitable, where is the best place to purchase it?
- Is an adhesion promoter really necessary on all plastic (door handles) and bumpers?
Any advice or tips are greatly appreciated. Thank you.
#3
if you are asking the forums for help sounds to me like you are doubting this guys work ......if you are go, to an actual body shop where they actually do the type of work on a daily basis tat way you know you will be happy
#4
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
1)Process sounds ok. Hes just gonna scuff up clear coat so the paint has something to adhere to. But I think he needs more base and clear. 2) as long as it has same color code, it should be fine. Skip 3, 4) I would recommend using an adhesion promoter, but your only looking to hold up for a year or two, so up to you. It will eventually start to peel especially with that florida sun. I have a couple ?s. Why is he only puting one coat base? Hopefully he does a damn good single coat. Or else you will see all the light and dark areas(areas he didn't cover well). Also, why is he only puting one coat of clear when you are paying for a whole gallon? One gallon can do at least two coats. Maybe even three. Do you really think a no primer, single base, single clear job will really hold up for two years in the hot *** sun. I don't think so. Overall it will work just not with one coat. It always comes down to you get what you pay for. Just my two pennies.........
#6
Rookie
Thread Starter
Update:
I just received further clarification from the painter. The process will include three coats of base and three coats of clear.
I feel much better knowing this and have decided to move forward. I think three coats each will do this job nicely and provide the desired result.
I'll update this thread once the job is completed and provide some 'after' photos. The work is tentatively scheduled for the week of August 5th.
I just received further clarification from the painter. The process will include three coats of base and three coats of clear.
I feel much better knowing this and have decided to move forward. I think three coats each will do this job nicely and provide the desired result.
I'll update this thread once the job is completed and provide some 'after' photos. The work is tentatively scheduled for the week of August 5th.
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#8
Me personally, I would rather purchase your car with original paint, with the defects that are pictured, as opposed to buying your car with a crappy paint job.
I say all that to se, just be careful, does he have other cars he has painted that you can see before he paints yours?
#13
Rookie
Thread Starter
Update:
The car went in for the paint job. Before I dropped it off, I removed the old gold emblems. I have a fresh, updated set of silver emblems ready to install after the new paint.
I also did a headlight restore job which made a huge difference. The yellowing of the lenses really showed the age. Now they are clear and look nearly new.
I should have the car back by Friday. I'll share some after photos within a week or so.
The car went in for the paint job. Before I dropped it off, I removed the old gold emblems. I have a fresh, updated set of silver emblems ready to install after the new paint.
I also did a headlight restore job which made a huge difference. The yellowing of the lenses really showed the age. Now they are clear and look nearly new.
I should have the car back by Friday. I'll share some after photos within a week or so.
Last edited by pizitz70; 08-05-13 at 08:55 AM.