Changed my AC and Radio display color
#124
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (7)
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I gathered these snippets of info:
http://www.oznium.com/corvette-c5-led
http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/6298403/vpcsid/0/SFV/32481
http://superbrightleds.com/instrument.html
- 560-680 ohm resistors might work...?
- From a 110V circuit board: 1.5 ohm resistor kept a 3V LED running at 2.96V.
- Make sure your replacements for the LEDs are also powered by 3V DC and that your replacement for the bulbs is ready for 12V DC (so, make sure you use the correct resistor so that whatever LED you use is happy constantly at 12VDC).
- Also - here are the problems u will encounter
- 1) Some stuff runs on 12V, some runs on 3V. 3V u can directly stick these LEDs in... anything that previously was using an LED is 3V off the bat, so that's easy. The bulbs are all 12V powered - so u need some resistors. The ones for these LEDs are 1.5K ohm, those are mega cheap, if u need me to provide the LEDs i can include those.
- 2) The buttons on the AC are tricky - when i made my own LED replacements, i made them the same size as the original LEDs and this was not a good idea. You shold make them smaller and find a way to fit hte LEDs inside the plastic tunnel thing... you'll see if you try. If they stick out, they make the button harder to press and sometimes might even make the button not functional all together. This only affected me on one button luckily, but if I were to do it again, I'd keep that in mind ahead of time to ensure same-as-stock operation.
- Also, rememebr stock bulbs work in both polarities while LEDs only work in one (the negative and positive must be oriented the right way). there's a 50/50 chance for each LED that it could be wired backwards. You'd have to see which ones are not illuminating and have them reversed.
http://www.oznium.com/corvette-c5-led
http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/6298403/vpcsid/0/SFV/32481
http://superbrightleds.com/instrument.html
#129
Instructor
iTrader: (8)
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just done yesterday... i think the radio is more of a PITA though... the hot spots aren't too bad... i sanded down the LEDs as much as i could... but i can live with it...
just done yesterday... i think the radio is more of a PITA though... the hot spots aren't too bad... i sanded down the LEDs as much as i could... but i can live with it...
#130
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (7)
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/4260275-post31.html
just done yesterday... i think the radio is more of a PITA though... the hot spots aren't too bad... i sanded down the LEDs as much as i could... but i can live with it...
just done yesterday... i think the radio is more of a PITA though... the hot spots aren't too bad... i sanded down the LEDs as much as i could... but i can live with it...
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What did you use for LEDs and resistors? Where did you find 'em?
#131
Instructor
iTrader: (8)
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i had a ton of leftover LED's from when i did my TL... i got a bunch of 5mm and 3mm off of ebay... then i filed the top of the LED flat in order to help disperse the light... i forgot to file one of the LEDs and when i put it in it was really bad like a spot light...
![](http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj277/acurazinekam/LexyGS/IMG_2141.jpg)
the radio ones are a pain in the @$$ because they are surface mounted LEDs...
#134
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (7)
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This is what I'm thinking I'd use in all locations for consistent birghtness and color temp: http://www.oznium.com/plcc-2 These run on 3V.
Twist sockets: resistors needed. Am I correct?
Surface-mounts: on the circuit boards themselves (rocker buttons, etc.) need 1.5K ohm resistors?
Existing LEDs: run on 3V, so these are a direct swap (i.e. no resistors required).
Twist sockets: resistors needed. Am I correct?
Surface-mounts: on the circuit boards themselves (rocker buttons, etc.) need 1.5K ohm resistors?
Existing LEDs: run on 3V, so these are a direct swap (i.e. no resistors required).