I wouldn't say he is being cheap because he had his mechanic buddy perform the work...we don't know what really happened so let's not passing judgments.

When I bought my gs 7years ago it had 40k miles, and I sure wasn't gonna pay anyone 1100 $ for a timing belt job,II've done the timing belt job on the non vvti engine before so I decided to do it myself.

At 126k miles I decided to take the plunge, when it was all done I was so nervous to fire up the engine.

Even at the dealership some guys on here had that issue where the dealer had to buy them a new cylinder head because the tech screwed up.

 

Kick'em while he's down..

 

Lesson for every one, hand crank the engine couple of times (min 2 revs) and stop on resistance [assuming you have the plugs pulled out]. And dont panic as the belt marks would not return to matched points .. just make sure the pulley [cams and main] marks line up.

Addition:
The above applies with the timing belt on.
When the timing belt is off ... every effort should be made that you do not spin the crank shaft or the cams. Cams can free wheel and that is okay but moving crank can lead you into problems.
In all cases apply force by hand and stop if things are locking up.

Salim

 

Salimshah is right. I seriously don't understand how people can mess up the timing belt jobs on these. It's really not that hard lol. Just make sure all the marks line up and you're good to go. Turn the engine a few times by hand and make sure that all the crank pulley & cam gears line up to the same marks for every rotation. If it's off, then take the belt off and reset the timing. If you ever feel it stop rotating, immediately let off and make sure/double check you have the timing correct. You can't bend or break valves by only hand turning unless you keep laying into it once it stops moving.

 

Ok, so I spoke w/ my friend again on what happen. He basically didn't have the timing belt on while he was rotating the crank bolt forward, he was checking the compression of the cylinders. Then, I wasn't sure why he had me crank it over. A strange noise occurred and it wasn't good. He's a good tech, I have known since high school. I know everyone is wondering, why crank it over when nothing is installed yet. (I still scratch my head on this one) After the boom (a huge oh -o) He looked at the cams and had a feeling two valves were busted, while examining the valve train. Few days later, we took off the head, and bam, two broken valves. It was a big lesson learned for him.
I had asked him to watch all the videos on youtube prior to installing the timing belt back, but yeah, he overlooked a few things. As far as expense goes, I am just paying for the gaskets. I called a few place, a used head goes for roughly $300 shipped. I am not totally upset about it, since he's like a brother to me. It's getting fixed and it's my second car, so other wise I be really mad about it.
Thanks for the comments. I learned a lot from this forum.
My car only has a 100,000 miles on it and I think it has still a long way to go. The timing belt was done prior to my purchase roughly 5,000 miles ago, I didn't really want to tear the motor apart, but it had to happen. I will update with the repairs, once completed.

 

wow that sucks glad he is manning up to it and paying to have it fixed even my self i check everything over 3 times before i even turn it over

 

When I turn the crank by hand a few revolutions, and it stops or there's resistance, do I stop right there?

 

Just align the cam and the crank to TDC. Install belt. Make sure marks are aligned to TDC again because the cam sprocket tends to move. Done. Simple.

 

Simple answer is Yes.

But

then the task of figuring out what is wrong and how to fix can be daunting. Barring other issues, here the problem is cams vs crank position. You have to remove the belt and reposition the gears. Your change can bring you closer or make it worse. Things get more complex as crank has 2 0deg position in 4 stroke. Hence my assertion, do not move the crank with the belt off.

I am sure Jeff will explain in better.

Salim

 

Okay that clears it up! Thanks!

 

Shouldn't try to start the car with belt off, its no no..
Now I am pissed off for you OP!.

 

Do a 2jzgte swap! Motor is already bye bye lol

 

So...you're not going to touch the bottom end? Just replacing the head?

I'd at least make him put in a new rotating assembly (or good condition used one) and maybe hone the cylinders. Not sure I'd want the engine put back together with pistons that made contact with valves. Especially if it wasn't my fault.

 

LOL what?
put in a whole new rotating assembly because why? I swear to god, this is the typical entitlement syndrome people suffer lately!

Check if the cylinders/piston tops are scored. If your cylinder walls are scored deep, that block will be scrap unless you want to bore and get oversized pistons. Pistons being scored wouldn't matter as much as the cyl. walls.. may create points of detonation if it's scored deep enough.

 

Geez, sorry this happened to you but this guy is an actual mechanic that makes a living at it? There is so much wrong in this picture it's crazy.

Why on earth would a mechanic have you crank the starter without the timing belt on the car?

You say he wanted to check the compression but how could he be checking the compression without the timing belt installed since without the belt to turn the cams the valves aren't gonna close to allow the chambers to compress the air?

Sounds like he is gonna make it right for you which is good, but damn the 2JZ has to be one of the easiest engines there is to line up a timing belt on, granted although the VVTI version can be questionable to someone wondering where to line up the intake gear since it has a 30 degree swing, but still what went wrong with yours didn't have anything to do with it being a VVTI or not.

Good luck with the fix, hope you get it back up and running soon.