I let everyone know how it turns out, and if I remember to take pictures. I've see alot of diy for SC, LS and GS400 instructions but it seems like very few for the gS300 and the smaller engine seems to give a little more room to work with. It'll be a few days I think.

 

Okay, so attempt to replace the engine mount failed today, I had to abort and here's why.

In the DIY threads that I have read, the instructions seem to be take off the nuts on top and bottom and not the bracket attached to engine. Then lift the engine using a wood board to support the oil pan...did that.

The problem is that I could not lift the engine high enough to get the mounts off, not enough clearance to clear the bolts. I aborted because I can see the engine ride up against the body and was not comfortable continuing to lift it up. I could see the hose and engine up against the frame.

After further inspection, I surmised that once the engine is supported, I need to loosen the brackets to the engine and would have done that but there is on nut on the drive side behind the oil filter bracket that I could not get enough clearance for a wrench or socket so I gave up. The space on the driver side is already tight so I believe this may be a job left to the pros as I initially thought. I"m not comfortable enough at this point to just loosen the brackent for the oil filter as worried that there's gaskets and things behind there that I"m just further digging myself into a deeper hole.

Anyone have any other advice or input before I take this to the dealer?

 

Its easier to just unbolt the main cross member lower to give you more room.

 

username32 - follow up question on your suggestion.

When I was lifting the engine, the car was not lifted so I think I have two options.
1. Jack up the car, keep it raised, then lift the engine with car lifted and then unbolt the main cross member
2. Jack up the car, unbolt the cross member, then lower car back down BUT I think this is NOT a good idea.

Is there any problem to raising the entire car on jacks, then raise the engine without lowering the car?

 

So it's going to the shop. I tried to the cross member suggestion, loosened both sides but didn't want to take it completely off and still no go....managed to get passenger side off but the new mount was too high to fit in and I couldn't lift the engine any higher.

I'll come back and post update after I get this to the shop...hopefully this week.

 

Maybe the taller 2JZ is a bit different then UZ series motors? I was able to raise my motor quite considerably in addition to lowering cross member.

 

It was a frustrating day for sure. I really thought I was going to be able to get the mounts in but for some reason, it could be me but I could not get enough clearance.

There was a thread suggesting that the brackets bolted to the engine (4 in total) should be removed and that was a consideration but I could not find a way to get one of the bolts on the driver side behind the oil filter bracket (yes, filter was off )as that's the only way to get to the top mount bolt.

 

Woohoo....mostly that is

So here goes. Got the engine mounts replaced today by local shop here in Denver. Engine mounts replaced were not visibly worn but definitely squished compared the new mounts.

Driving home...engine was buttery smooth, it amazes how those two mounts could make such a big difference, engine noise is literally gone and the dreaded shake at idle has vanished and I could not tell if the engine is running unless all audio and fans are off and tentatively listening.

The the thud when shifting, it's mostly gone....it wasn't bad in the first place but noticeable. Now, not very and unless I pay attention probably would not bother me. 70-80% reduction in the thud but not quite. But was not expecting this to be fixed completely as I suspect it could be worn bushings somewhere, it's a 162k car so expected. But I'm much happier now, and will not consider doing anything else for awhile...maybe

I was also experience a jerky acceleration between 1st and second but only when the car was moving slowly and i'm accelerating into 2nd gear, it would catch and accelerate quickly. That has been reduced as well but not as much but better. I will probably troubleshoot that soon but after the engine mount, I'm much more satisfied with the performance.

Anyone considering to change the mount, I highly recommend changing it, even if it has to go to the shop. In my case, the mounts were not really bad but even then, the difference was significant.

Thanks everyone for chiming in. Great forum and I'll be posting on here as much as time allows but this one of the most active and best car forums I've been on and I own and '98 Landrover Discovery for the Offroad/snow driving and a Subaru Outback for the family car and an Integra (all stock) prior to it getting wrecked (rear ended) recently.

Cheers

 

How much did the shop charge you for labor? Even though minds not bad I may consider doing this just to have the quietness it used to have

 

$150 per mount.

 

Engine Mount DIY (Pics included). I found this by doing a quick search.


https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...or-mounts.html