Gs400 taking longer to start
#1
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Every now and then I find that it takes a bit longer to get the engine fired up. I'm not good with car terminology, so bear with me.
Normally the engine should go "er-vroom (on)"
Now it sorta goes "er er er er er er er er - vroom (on)"
Replaced spark plugs with NGK iridium IX, used chevron fuel injectors cleaner couple times with full tank replaced fuel filter cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor, I have K&N air intake installed. Still does it.
Usually it happens when the car sits overnight! Last month didn't drive the for couple days and it took over a minute to start! Battery seems strong. Any ideas?
Normally the engine should go "er-vroom (on)"
Now it sorta goes "er er er er er er er er - vroom (on)"
Replaced spark plugs with NGK iridium IX, used chevron fuel injectors cleaner couple times with full tank replaced fuel filter cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor, I have K&N air intake installed. Still does it.
Usually it happens when the car sits overnight! Last month didn't drive the for couple days and it took over a minute to start! Battery seems strong. Any ideas?
#2
Racer
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im having the same issues. on my gs430.
i searched on CL, and due to age, decided to start replacing items.
1) fuel pump and orings
2) fuel filter and o rings
3) fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump assembly and orings
4) throttle position sensor
5) fuel rail dampeners (i smelled gas fumes from my engine bay area
im still having a long crank issue, but seems like it happens more ofen when i have less than 1/2 a tank of gas.
what i end up doing is priming the system a few times, then try to start it, and it works fine, no drivability issues
priming is where you turn your key in the ignition to the acc on/just about to start car but not turn key fully) position, leave it there for 5-10 seconds, then turn off, do it again right away, do this 2-3 times, it seems to build enough fuel pressure to start.
was told by a lexus service advisor it could be the maf sensor as it has 2 wires in the sensor that measures intake temperature. if that is giving the wrong signal, it may cause a long crank. it could also be a sensor right behind the thermostat, i assume that is another coolant temp sensor. these 2 items i havent changed yet.
i have been told by other mechanics it could be a bad injector/injector o ring.
i would suggest having your fuel pressure checked first. it requires a T fitting at the fuel rail at back of engine since no banjo fuel pressure tester attachment,.
i searched on CL, and due to age, decided to start replacing items.
1) fuel pump and orings
2) fuel filter and o rings
3) fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump assembly and orings
4) throttle position sensor
5) fuel rail dampeners (i smelled gas fumes from my engine bay area
im still having a long crank issue, but seems like it happens more ofen when i have less than 1/2 a tank of gas.
what i end up doing is priming the system a few times, then try to start it, and it works fine, no drivability issues
priming is where you turn your key in the ignition to the acc on/just about to start car but not turn key fully) position, leave it there for 5-10 seconds, then turn off, do it again right away, do this 2-3 times, it seems to build enough fuel pressure to start.
was told by a lexus service advisor it could be the maf sensor as it has 2 wires in the sensor that measures intake temperature. if that is giving the wrong signal, it may cause a long crank. it could also be a sensor right behind the thermostat, i assume that is another coolant temp sensor. these 2 items i havent changed yet.
i have been told by other mechanics it could be a bad injector/injector o ring.
i would suggest having your fuel pressure checked first. it requires a T fitting at the fuel rail at back of engine since no banjo fuel pressure tester attachment,.
#3
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Its not falling on its face when it cranks right? Not like a er-er-er-ummmmm-er -er vroom (start) please don't ask me to make that description again. Lol. But when you're cranking do you notice any voltage drops? It could be your battery may not have enough CCA's. Our Cars have a lot of power draws from our radios, auto headlamps, all kinds of stuff. Or it could be something like your starter. Easier to check your battery first, make sure its got the CCAs and reserve capacity the manufacturer calls for, or more. I have a Optima Red top with 895 CCA's. I left my parking lights on for 2 days straight once, got in the car, fired right up.
#4
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im having the same issues. on my gs430.
i searched on CL, and due to age, decided to start replacing items.
1) fuel pump and orings
2) fuel filter and o rings
3) fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump assembly and orings
4) throttle position sensor
5) fuel rail dampeners (i smelled gas fumes from my engine bay area
im still having a long crank issue, but seems like it happens more ofen when i have less than 1/2 a tank of gas.
what i end up doing is priming the system a few times, then try to start it, and it works fine, no drivability issues
priming is where you turn your key in the ignition to the acc on/just about to start car but not turn key fully) position, leave it there for 5-10 seconds, then turn off, do it again right away, do this 2-3 times, it seems to build enough fuel pressure to start.
was told by a lexus service advisor it could be the maf sensor as it has 2 wires in the sensor that measures intake temperature. if that is giving the wrong signal, it may cause a long crank. it could also be a sensor right behind the thermostat, i assume that is another coolant temp sensor. these 2 items i havent changed yet.
i have been told by other mechanics it could be a bad injector/injector o ring.
i would suggest having your fuel pressure checked first. it requires a T fitting at the fuel rail at back of engine since no banjo fuel pressure tester attachment,.
i searched on CL, and due to age, decided to start replacing items.
1) fuel pump and orings
2) fuel filter and o rings
3) fuel pressure regulator in the fuel pump assembly and orings
4) throttle position sensor
5) fuel rail dampeners (i smelled gas fumes from my engine bay area
im still having a long crank issue, but seems like it happens more ofen when i have less than 1/2 a tank of gas.
what i end up doing is priming the system a few times, then try to start it, and it works fine, no drivability issues
priming is where you turn your key in the ignition to the acc on/just about to start car but not turn key fully) position, leave it there for 5-10 seconds, then turn off, do it again right away, do this 2-3 times, it seems to build enough fuel pressure to start.
was told by a lexus service advisor it could be the maf sensor as it has 2 wires in the sensor that measures intake temperature. if that is giving the wrong signal, it may cause a long crank. it could also be a sensor right behind the thermostat, i assume that is another coolant temp sensor. these 2 items i havent changed yet.
i have been told by other mechanics it could be a bad injector/injector o ring.
i would suggest having your fuel pressure checked first. it requires a T fitting at the fuel rail at back of engine since no banjo fuel pressure tester attachment,.
Sorry to hear your issue as well! I also replaced the TPS not to long ago and am almost sure this issue that am having started right after i installed The new TPS. Someone suggested me to try a can Of
BG 44K fuel system cleaner used by Toyota dealers. Ever heard of it?
#5
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And SoorGwa is on a good hunch with fuel pressure as well. I had that problem on my Nissan. Had to prime the fuel pump all the time because it always lost fuel pressure. Turns out I needed to replace the fuel pressure regulator.
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#8
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Its not falling on its face when it cranks right? Not like a er-er-er-ummmmm-er -er vroom (start) please don't ask me to make that description again. Lol. But when you're cranking do you notice any voltage drops? It could be your battery may not have enough CCA's. Our Cars have a lot of power draws from our radios, auto headlamps, all kinds of stuff. Or it could be something like your starter. Easier to check your battery first, make sure its got the CCAs and reserve capacity the manufacturer calls for, or more. I have a Optima Red top with 895 CCA's. I left my parking lights on for 2 days straight once, got in the car, fired right up.
#9
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#12
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not the battery, did a midtronics test on the battery, which was replaced not so long ago anyways to an AGM 990cc.
when i first checked the fuel pressure on the fuel line to fuel rail, there was no residual pressure. that made me think it was the check valve in the fuel pump that was faulty. after replacing the fuel pump, still was doing the same thing.
when i first checked the fuel pressure on the fuel line to fuel rail, there was no residual pressure. that made me think it was the check valve in the fuel pump that was faulty. after replacing the fuel pump, still was doing the same thing.
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#14
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use to use the BG 44K stuff all the time when i worked at a dealership. good stuff. i've tried the fuel system treatment route, didnt seem to help me though.
my next diag will be to hook up the obd scanner while driving to take a reading of the ambient intake temp at start up. if it fluctuates, then that means i may have a faulty maf sensor.
my next diag will be to hook up the obd scanner while driving to take a reading of the ambient intake temp at start up. if it fluctuates, then that means i may have a faulty maf sensor.
Sorry to hear your issue as well! I also replaced the TPS not to long ago and am almost sure this issue that am having started right after i installed The new TPS. Someone suggested me to try a can Of
BG 44K fuel system cleaner used by Toyota dealers. Ever heard of it?
BG 44K fuel system cleaner used by Toyota dealers. Ever heard of it?
#15
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do you still have the stock alarm connected?
sometimes when i accidentally press the stock alarm buttons on the key in conjunction with my viper, i get remote start issues too.
i'm thinking it has something to do with the keysense/ignition since it cranks and doesn't turn over at first, but then cycles through it again on its own in 10 seconds and works fine.