thordehr

History:

Dead drivers actuator. No response from remote or lock unlock door control. Manual lock unlock worked with key.

Ordered:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/For-1998-2005-Lexus-GS300-Base-Sedan-4-Door-Front-Left-Power-Door-Lock-Actuator-/361059678667?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AGS300&hash=item5410d579cb&vxp=mtr#vi-ilComp
Replaced the door lock actuator using this as guide:


(I got to replace the whole assembly, not take it apart and just replace the motor)

It went back together without any problems. Rods and cables attached, everything works in the door, door locks and unlocks.

Current problem:

When you unlock the door with the remote you hear that motor unlock more than once and sometimes it sets off the alarm.

Solutions?:

I disconnected the battery for a bit and reconnected hoping to reset the alarm. Didn't change anything.

I have read there are possibly some different procedures for resetting the alarm. (involves locking all doors with the remote, or possibly the lock unlock button, then manually unlocking the door? Locking and unlocking the door multiple times with the key while alarm is set?

Haven't found a solid detailed procedure for this.


IF that's NOT the problem, is it possible that it's a defective actuator and it's not reading end of travel / position properly?

Is there anything possibly not connected properly on the actuator, wiring or mechanical that should be looked at?

Thanks, a 50% repair is getting more frustrating than having it not working at all.

(First post, been lurking for a while)

NoUltimatu

I posted about this too. Someone said it was a sticking door actuator. But all my doors unlock, so maybe I'll take the door panels off and unplug the door actuators until one of them stops the multiple unlocking.

KeyKeeper

There are 2 electrical plugs on each actuator. One for the motor, and one for the contacts on the drive gear. There are 2ea metal "tab" fingers that touch the drive gear. On the gear there is a metal contact plate. When the gear rotates, it connects the circuit between the 2 metal tabs creating a closed circuit. The body module uses this "closed" circuit to identify which doors are locking, and which ones are not. If ANY of the actuators are not going "closed" on these circuits, the body module will attempt to relock the doors a couple times. This can trip the alarm. Make sure that ALL plugs are connected and making good contact. You can use a multi-meter after locking all the doors with the key fob. Test for continuity between the 2 terminals on the small plug that comes from the actuator assembly. If one of them does not show continuity when locked with the key fob, then the "tabs" are not making contact with the internal drive gear. Hope this makes sense. When I rebuild them, I bend the tabs out a little giving them "extra" spring tension onto the drive gear ensuring a good contact with the small metal plate on the drive gear when in the locked position.

NoUltimatu

Thanks I'll try that too.

thordehr

Got it. The smaller connector is deep inside around the corner when the actuator is bolted in place and hard to reach. Maybe that connector isn't fully seated.
Thanks. Will give it a shot and report back.

thordehr

Looks like I found the alarm problem. Maybe.

Yes, The actuator was broken. It now locks and unlocks electrically.

Going into the door for a second time, I found a very small broken part:



On the tip of the black ended cable, the tip of the black plastic piece was broken off and allowed to slide freely up and down the steel shaft. This didn't allow the cable to mimic the door lock position... Could could be leading to problems with the alarm reading lock/unlock position.

I may also have a problem with the locked/unlocked sensor that is part of the whole assembly. I was never able to get a change in state on the pins coming out of it with moving the rods and cables in different positions.

It's possible I can't get the cable separately, so instead, may be getting the whole assembly which would include, new lock unlock position switch, new cables and new actuator. $271.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-LEXUS-GS300-GS400-GS430-DRIVER-FRONT-DOOR-LOCK-ACTUATOR-1998-2005-COMPLETE-/181567499124?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a46442b74&vxp=mtr
Hoping this may work.

thordehr

Just found it cheaper:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lexus-TOYOTA-OEM-01-05-GS300-Front-Door-Door-Lock-Kit-690403A071/321568969899?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=20140407115239&meid=0d56150ba39a408a916e1a073259bc94&pid=100204&prg=20140407115239&rk=6&rkt=30&sd=261497011908

702GS

Is this for all 4 doors or just the front 2?

KeyKeeper

The photo is the front type.

Also, you will not get a state change when moving the rods/cables. You have to plug it into the car door harness and use the keyfob or door button(electric button, not manual lock lever) to activate the motor inside. The motor is the only part that can move the spur gear inside which has the contact points on it.

With the cable being broke on the end (my ps front is like this and works fine), it only prevents you from being able to use the manual door lock release lever. It should have no effect on the position of the spur gear.

Remember, any door can cause this. Id plug it back and and hit the unlock button a few times to see which door is acting up. if any the manual levers dont move back and forth ALL the way (short of the one with the broke cable), then the ones that dont move all the way would be the suspect door.

KeyKeeper

Ok so I had a spare junk actuator in the garage...finally all unpacked after our move....the small connect or is actually NOT what the body module uses to sense if the door is locked/unlocked. There are 4 pins on the main connector (more on the DS front door?). 2 of the pins are for the actuator position. The small 2 pin connector is for the door latch mechanism position.

thordehr

For whatever reason, putting in a new assembly did the trick. Two new actuators didn't do it. In the meantime, the manual lock/unlock button works now too with the new cables. Have gotten to the point where I can take the door apart, replace the lock assembly and get all back together in 10 minutes or less. That means I'll never have to do it again.
Thanks for the info all.