Ticking after installing transmission... what could it be?
#1
[solved] Ticking after installing transmission... what could it be?
1999 GS300
Background: TCC solenoid went out and trans had slipping gears. TCC was causing car to stall at stops because lock up clutch would not let go. Just swapped transmission and this fixed my issue, except:
Now when my car is coasting it ticks like crazy. When I put my foot on the gas the ticking goes away. The ticking is faster at higher RPM and slower and more spaced out at lower RPMs (when coming to a stop for example). When the car is at a stop there is no sound. When in nuetral no sound. When accelerating no sound.
What could this be? This was not an issue before I swapped it out. It is very loud and embarrassing.
Background: TCC solenoid went out and trans had slipping gears. TCC was causing car to stall at stops because lock up clutch would not let go. Just swapped transmission and this fixed my issue, except:
Now when my car is coasting it ticks like crazy. When I put my foot on the gas the ticking goes away. The ticking is faster at higher RPM and slower and more spaced out at lower RPMs (when coming to a stop for example). When the car is at a stop there is no sound. When in nuetral no sound. When accelerating no sound.
What could this be? This was not an issue before I swapped it out. It is very loud and embarrassing.
Last edited by 2haloz; 01-20-15 at 06:32 PM.
#4
Its not the driveshaft but rather the transmission where it meets with the driveshaft (output shaft and mount). To me it looks and sounds like what would be a bearing in there.
Im going to take that part off of my old transmission and put it in the new (to me) tranmission.
I didnt change the driveshaft.
Im going to take that part off of my old transmission and put it in the new (to me) tranmission.
I didnt change the driveshaft.
#5
Solved
BAM. Fixed it. Replaced that mount. It wasnt a bearing in there. The other piece was just bent. Putting the old straight one on got rid of the clicking. Had to do the transmission twice but it was worth it.
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#8
Pics please. Sounds like you had to reuse the front have of your drive shaft. The drive shafts on these cars are 2 pieces with a carrier bearing in the middle that supports it. Since the differential is fixed in the chassis (similar to the vette), the drive shaft is made this way. Shouldnt have had to pull the transmission out to fix that.
#9
I'm still waiting for pics - but in talking to him it sounds like he had to swap out the output shaft, which would require pulling the tail cone, take off the speed sensor ring and 1way clutch.
Interesting but I will wait to see pics.
Interesting but I will wait to see pics.
#11
I pulled the tail cone off, then I pulled the speed sensor ring and 1-way clutch off, there seems to be more than one way to put it all back.
#12
When you say "one way clutch", Im assuming you referring to the sprag in the rear hub. If so, yes it is symmetrical. I just looked at the exploded view of this and based on design type, there should be some "load marks" in the tail housing where the outer hub pressed up against the splines cast into the tail housing during sprag engagement. Using these, you should be able to tell which direction the sprag locks pushing the hub up against these marks. Hope that makes sense. To reassemble, you will need to have the sprag paws/cage assembly in the hub and then slide the inner race into it. Trying to get a hub over a sprag is a pain in the behind....theres always that one paw that wants to poke out.
#13
I looked at the hub again. There should be a beveled edge on one side. if you didnt remove the sprag/thrust wasthers/snap rings from the hub, then you can just re-install it with the bevel facing the tail housing.
#14
When you say "one way clutch", Im assuming you referring to the sprag in the rear hub. If so, yes it is symmetrical. I just looked at the exploded view of this and based on design type, there should be some "load marks" in the tail housing where the outer hub pressed up against the splines cast into the tail housing during sprag engagement. Using these, you should be able to tell which direction the sprag locks pushing the hub up against these marks. Hope that makes sense. To reassemble, you will need to have the sprag paws/cage assembly in the hub and then slide the inner race into it. Trying to get a hub over a sprag is a pain in the behind....theres always that one paw that wants to poke out.
Can I install the tail housing in any orientation that fits nor is there a trick?
I also saw that there is a line in the sensor wheel that seems to line up with the notch in the output shaft.
#15
The reluctor ring for the speed sensor will go on any which way (spline wise) and since its nothing more than a trigger for the hall effect speed sensor, it doesnt really matter which way you put it on. Looking at the hub (sprag outer "race"), it looks symmetrical unless Im mistaken. If you have the hub on with the outer bevel facing rearward, and it will spline into the tail housing, you should be all set. Its nothing more than a "brake" for the #2 sprag assembly and rear planet carrier to lock down for gear multiplication. The hub does not rotate, its static in the tail housing. Hope this makes sense. If you want to shoot me some photos lemme know and I will pm you my cell#.